New boat - antifoul?

Spyros

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Hi guys,

just got a new 28 foot speedboat that has never been antifouled, neither the hull or the outdrives.
The boat will be kept in a saltwater marina in the med during the summer for 4-5 months and then on a trailer.

What is your opinion? Should I antifoul and do an anti osmotic barrier before (epoxy) on the hull or not?

What about the outdrives? They are in great condition. Should I leave them as is or prime and antifoul?

Thanks!
 

julians

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Hi guys,

just got a new 28 foot speedboat that has never been antifouled, neither the hull or the outdrives.
The boat will be kept in a saltwater marina in the med during the summer for 4-5 months and then on a trailer.

What is your opinion? Should I antifoul and do an anti osmotic barrier before (epoxy) on the hull or not?

What about the outdrives? They are in great condition. Should I leave them as is or prime and antifoul?

Thanks!


Definitely antifoul plus epoxy layer,otherwise you'll be scrubbing it every 2 weeks.
 
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DavidJ

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I would question an anti osmotic barrier.
But yes antifoul the hull and drives.
I stand to be corrected but I’ve not heard of a boat in the last couple of decades getting osmosis.
My Sealine has been in the water in the Med for 20 years and has just passed a survey including hull moisture.
 

Elessar

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Hi guys,

just got a new 28 foot speedboat that has never been antifouled, neither the hull or the outdrives.
The boat will be kept in a saltwater marina in the med during the summer for 4-5 months and then on a trailer.

What is your opinion? Should I antifoul and do an anti osmotic barrier before (epoxy) on the hull or not?

What about the outdrives? They are in great condition. Should I leave them as is or prime and antifoul?

Thanks!
coppercoat on the bare GRP. It will last forever if only in the water part time and wont scratch or damage going on and off the trailer because its rock hard. Antifouling on a trailer is a PITA.

Just antifoul the legs every year. Velox best IMO.
 

Daydream believer

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Copper coat does not work very well ( if at all :rolleyes: ), but at least you only have to jet wash it & not try & go through the process of applying antifoul paint every year-- which would be an evil job with a boat on a trailer. The coppercoat solution would save a lot of dosh over the next 10 years as well. I have coppercoat on my yacht & just jetwash it mid season & start/end of season.. Fairly easy really
 

Elessar

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Copper coat does not work very well ( if at all :rolleyes: ), but at least you only have to jet wash it & not try & go through the process of applying antifoul paint every year-- which would be an evil job with a boat on a trailer. The coppercoat solution would save a lot of dosh over the next 10 years as well. I have coppercoat on my yacht & just jetwash it mid season & start/end of season.. Fairly easy really
In my experience it works well. On the 3rd of my own boats with it.
And conventional anti foul will continue to get worse as legislation tightens. Coppercoat leeching rates are way within any proposed legislation and is just as strong as it has been for over 20 years. Formula unchanged.
 

Daydream believer

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In my experience it works well.
Really?
I know that this is the waterline but after 12 weeks??
Launched 15 May that year. I was unable to take pictures of the underside of hull but it always is bad mid season reducing speed by at just under a knot in 6 knts when motoring. I might add that I had been using the boat, having sailed to Camaret & back by that time
Weed on hull (600 x 402).jpg
 

Elessar

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Really?
I know that this is the waterline but after 12 weeks??
Launched 15 May that year. I was unable to take pictures of the underside of hull but it always is bad mid season reducing speed by at just under a knot in 6 knts when motoring. I might add that I had been using the boat, having sailed to Camaret & back by that time
View attachment 139589
There is nothing attached to your Coppercoat it is attached to the GRP above the Coppercoat. Your waterline is wrong.
 

Spyros

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I like the idea of not anti fouling every year. Will coppercoat be ok with the alunimum stern drives? Any problems with promoting corrosion etc?
And what about the stern drives? Maybe in the 4-5 month period in the water just put it on the trailer a couple of times and jet wash it?
 

Elessar

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I like the idea of not anti fouling every year. Will coppercoat be ok with the alunimum stern drives? Any problems with promoting corrosion etc?
And what about the stern drives? Maybe in the 4-5 month period in the water just put it on the trailer a couple of times and jet wash it?
You can’t Coppercoat the stern drives. But being on the hull won’t effect them.

People (wrongly) think you need to leave an inch gap around the stern drives. True of regular copper based antifoul but not true of Coppercoat which is waterproof and inert. But it may be wise to do so to consider resale. An ignorant surveyor may criticise it.

The stern drives will need regular cleaning in the water if you don’t anti foul them at all.
 

harvey38

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I too have had and will continue to use Coppercoat, sure growth attaches to it but a light brush brings it off for asthetics and certainly when we get back to port there's nothing left attached even just pootling around at 12knots.
 

Spyros

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Is there another antifoul that lets you keep your boat out of the water for lets say 6 months and then relaunch?
 
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Put this on this old post and received no response: Coppercoat causing corrosion on through hull fittings

I know this is an old post and lengthy post. But I have noticed a similar pattern around bonded skin fittings (raw water intake and stern tube intake) on my Beneteau Oceanis 381. The unbonded fittings elsewhere show no sign of this pattern. The boat was copper coated and then painted over with Micron by a previous owner. Presumably they we’re happy with the anti fouling properties of this CC application. Each season the antifoul blisters off in an area about 20cm around these two skin fittings exposing a rough dark area. Looks like something electrolytic is at play. The fittings seem good no de-zinkification seen. I have rebonded the fittings, engine, keel, to a new bonding point with 10mm2 copper wire, and then the common -ve. There are no stray currents detectable. The boat is mainly not connected to the mains. I know lots of people say coppercoat is electrically innert. But from my experience I doubt that it is electrolytically innert (at least in this example). I am considering either electrically isolating the existing fittings from the coppercoat, or fitting non-metal fittings. Comments?
 

Hot Property

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I've used Silic One from Hempel on my 23 ft sports cruiser with great success

Needs 20 knots to clean off but annual maintenance just required a light pressure wash and touch up of any physical abrasions.

Just about to apply to my new rib which will be afloat all year.

Superheat6k of this parish also used it on his boat to great effect.
 

Elessar

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I've used Silic One from Hempel on my 23 ft sports cruiser with great success

Needs 20 knots to clean off but annual maintenance just required a light pressure wash and touch up of any physical abrasions.

Just about to apply to my new rib which will be afloat all year.

Superheat6k of this parish also used it on his boat to great effect.
Did you keep it on a trailer? If so how did you touch up the damage?

A trailer won’t damage Coppercoat it will withstand 20 years of launching and recovery for the OP.
 
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