Need a 3 way diverter valve.

[FullCircle]

I have fitted a Whale Gusher Footpump in the galley which feeds a tap.
This is for deep sea and emergency use, as the main system is all electric water pumping. Not good.
I have installed a second fresh water feed from the forward water tank, with a non return valve fitted in the line to prevent contamination getting back into the water tank. It has a straight fuacet to the sink.

I have also fitted a seacock for salt water intake.

What I cant seem to find is a 3 way valve which will allow me to switch from fresh water to sea water through the footpump, and an off position, preferably one that will allow mounting to a sidewall or mounting plate. This is located in the side lockers behind cushions, so is not an appearance item.

Can anyone help with a source ?

Thanks
Jim

 

[twisterkai]

Try ASAP supplies, they carry a good range of valves etc.

 

[Talbot]

plenty of sources for a Y split, and just connect two single ball valves to each leg of the Y.

 

[FullCircle]

I should have mentioned that this is for 1/2 inch water flexible pipe, ASAP smallest is 25mm!

 

[Norman_E]

Why not just fit a Y piece and two stop valves? Just remember always close both valves, then open the one you want. Both open together could empty your freshwater in to the sea, or contaminate your fresh tank with seawater. I would actually prefer to have two foot pumps and two taps, entirely separately plumbed.

 

[FullCircle]

Norman,
cant contaminate fresh with sea water, because of the non return valve fitted in line from the fresh tank, but agree you can get water to 'escape' down the sea cock route.
Also, looking at the cost of 3 way Vetus valve at 70 quid, it is cheaper to fit two 2 way valves and a T piece, ass the 2 ways are only 6 quid each in our yard chandlery.

Cheaper options than the Vetus (KRA series)?

 

[pvb]

You\'re looking in the wrong place...

Instead of looking at water valves, you need to look at fuel valves. You need an L-port ball valve. They usually come with female BSP connections; if you get one with 3/8" BSP connections, you should be able to fit hose connectors which will take 15mm hose (but check before you buy - you might need to get 1/2" BSP version). Because the valve is an L-port design, it can't select both fresh and sea water at the same time. You can get them from ASAP (product 405402 if you've got enough time and patience to try to find your way around their dreadful website!).

 

[philip_stevens]

405603 ASAP-Supplies 1/2" metal "Y" ball-valve.

L port 405403 - one port in, two ports out, only two ports open at one time.
T port 405503 - one port in, two ports out, either two or three ports open at one time.
Y port 405603 - one port in, two ports out, each outlet has a shut off valve.

I think the Y port will give you more option.

ASAP Supplies

 

[Talbot]

The solution to the ball valve for the correct size pipe is to use a gas valve. I have one as the main valve for my shower.

 

[Norman_E]

I would not totally trust a non return valve, especially if it is not spring loaded, or laid on its side.

 

[pvb]

L-port is the only safe option...

The L-port valve is the only safe option, as it's physically impossible to set it so that the fresh water and sea water circuits are connected. The Y-port and T-port valves allow this, and could (depending on the relative levels) allow fresh water to drain away to the sea, or allow sea water to contaminate the fresh water tank (although I appreciate that Jimdew's non-return valve should stop this).

 

[FullCircle]

Re: L-port is the only safe option...

L Port ordered, agree with the logic.
The non return valve is at the end of about 3m of pipe run, and its all low pressure anyway, so absolute sealing is not an issue. I think 20-30cc of seawater in my fresh water will be taken care of by the water purifier anyway.

 

[pvb]

Might be too late, but...

Might be too late, but it's not a bad idea to have the 2 outlets from your fresh water tank at different levels, with the feed to the pressure system connected to the higher outlet. In this way, if you run out of pressurised water, you still have a reserve of fresh water accessible by the foot pump. Just a thought.

 

[FullCircle]

Re: Might be too late, but...

Nice thought, but I have a whole spare tank with another 150 litres tucked away in the back of the boat. I chose the forard tank for balance purposes.
Now all I have to work out is a system to pump from one end to the other if I need to!

 

[PCUK]

Your local hydraulics supplier wiill have every valve you can dream of and at bargain prices!

 

[philip_stevens]

Re: L-port is the only safe option...

fully agree with you and pvb. Reason noted.

I copied part of my reply from another poster, who wanted to use one of two tanks, or both. That's why I mentioned the Y valve.

 

[tugboat]

I guess you're fixed now, but for your information, Hozelok(sp?) the peeps who do all the attachments for garden hoses do a manifold which might have suited your application. I have 3 on board (one for each tank) and it gives a very flexible system. Each manifold has inlet on the end (either end usable) and there are 4 valved outlets down the side. They use those quick connectors. No reason why you couldn't have the side connectors as inlets and an outlet on the end. Made to fit standard 1/2 inch hose. On my boat each manifold feeds the pressure system, the foot pump, the sink in the heads and there is a drain to the bilge for emptying at layup. Also, I can easily connect the engine cooling to any manifold and run the engine while ashore for oil change and thus can use the engine cooling pump to empty the FW tanks. It's a great system, though the credit for it goes to the original owner. I'd post a pic only I haven't plucked up the courage to get Woofy'd yet! Oh yes, the manifolds come with a mounting bracket too. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[sailorman]

Jim Y not a totally seperate faucet 4 the salt water