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Richard.C

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I've been looking to change my boat for something a little bigger but the pickings are very slim so I'm looking to spend a little on my current boat instead and wait for the perfect replacement to come along.

One of the items on the list is navigation as I still have the circa 2003 Raymarine gear, RL70, RL80 and an RC530. I'd like to stay Raymarine and am looking at either Axiom 12 or Axiom Pro12. Of course I will need to fabricate blanking plates to mount the new MFD's and cover the parts of holes left from the old gear.

So just wondering what material others have used to fabricate blanking plates from? An aluminium sheet is an obvious choice but interested to know if plastics, composites or others have been used or are preferred.

Thanks

Richard
 
I use Perspex. I get a company to cut to size, with a bevel on the edges and cut the hole in the middle too. Black gloss would look good with Axioms.
 
Perhaps not the most inexpensive route but we have had several panels made by Brian Wards of Brundall to cover various issues / mount new kit. They have a range of materials and will make up what you need to your specification. They have supplied a lot for local boat builders over the years including Brooms, Haines and Hardy.

The most recent items we have had have been a small panel to mount the new Webasto heating controller and cover the holes/marks from the previous Eberspacher unit and panels to mount new electronic engine controls in the space previously occupied by Morse controls. A couple of years ago they did a panel for the flybridge when we installed a plotter and as they did the original Hardy’s they still had some of the same blue material in their storeroom - still need to replace the upper panel as it looks aged in comparison 😉

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I use Perspex. I get a company to cut to size, with a bevel on the edges and cut the hole in the middle too. Black gloss would look good with Axioms.

Ditto, except I went with Matt black perspex. I used the Raymarine template files to design the blanking shape between the old and new. I also inserted bushings to take the mounting screws - using a soldering iron.
 
Another plain black panel that Brian Wards made for us to rectify some fairly messy mounting of kit by the previous owner and to facilitate installing a new Fusion music system in a slightly different location to the previous kit and to install a TV.

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Depending on purpose:

  • Aluminium-sandwich (Dibond, Alupanel, Alucobond etc.). Very easy to work with. Cut, drill, file and more without special tools.
    • Most recently used for white instrument- and switch panels
  • Polycarbonate (Lexan, Makrolon, Palsun..). My preferred product when needing transparent material. Close to indestructible, many times tougher than acrylic (used for protective goggles, machine guards, headlights for cars and even cockpits for jet fighters). Cut, bend, drill with ease.
    • Most recently used for a flybridge windscreen, replacing the factory Plexiglass that cracked and broke.
  • Acrylic (Polycast, Lucite, Plexiglass, Perspex etc.). Can be tricky to work with, especially when cold (outdoors).
    • Most recently used to replace a side window on a trolling boat. Scratched over time on the outside, the owner wanted it to remain "original". Personally would have switched to polycarbonate.
 
Lots of on-line acrylic / Perspex suppliers. That’s what I use. Give them a CAD file and they will do all kinds of fancy cut outs for you. Cheap too.
 
I replaced the dash panels on my Broom Ocean 38 last year. I got a local company to CNC cut it from a cad drawing I did.
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