my project sealine

Hey my reservalve needs pumping-up with a bicycle pump every few months, no hydraulic leaks, you just have to be pretty quick when disconnecting the pump or you loose the blooming pressure, I get it first time most of the time, I think I need a new schrader valve and some type of quick connector, any suggestions where I can get a new valve/connector welcomed!
 
OK so I haven't updated for ages, partially because photobucket is now a PITA, partially because I've been doing hidden stuff and partially because, as predicted, I've been doing too much of this rather than finishing the boat!
IMG_3242.jpg

IMG_3243.jpg

photo2d.jpg


So of the unseen jobs:

We had a couple of charters. One complained the throttles were too stiff. They were a bit, so I replaced all the cables. 3 days gone, what a pig of a job.

I fitted new indicator trim tab controls to both stations. More days gone.

Then on a fun trip we noticed the sbd engine was warmer and came back slowly. It was manageable at about 12 knots. Same day I had a call from a school.
Can we have your boat tomorrow, ours is broken.
Yes but only if you're doing slow stuff, I have a temperature issue.
Yes, all low speed.
Fine.

Next day a phone call. The starboard engine is broken. They had boiled it. "the alarm didn't go off" they said. Well yes they'd slow roasted it so the temperature sender had gone brittle and shattered. Gauge was fine though, they just couldn't be arsed to look even though there was a known issue.

A charter was lost the following weekend and col replaced the thermostat. No time to test at speed before another charter and it was still getting hot. A day of low speed handling was done and the charter transferred to Wiggo's boat. Turned out it was the fresh water pump and the exhaust manifold had cracked.

So that was replaced, Col to the rescue again. But a £1000 repair plus 2 lost charters was a steep price for what I consider to be carelessness. Fortunately no other damage was done.

So onto the nicer jobs.

I replaced the carpet!! Bleach cleanable, and quite cheap, but with a quality underlay. The main wear areas are easy to replace if necessary.
IMG_3307.jpg

IMG_3306.jpg


Then onto the oak interior. It has been a real learning curve, but I have the technique now and I'm on a roll.

As a reminder, this boat was from sealines white phase and someone had painted it brown. They had done an astonishingly neat job actually, but I couldn't live with it. Bit of both here.
IMG_3315.jpg


So a bit of oaking going on
IMG_3303.jpg

IMG_3304.jpg


Then comes the finishing. This has taken some trial and error too, but now I am getting the finish I want. I'm loving it and can't wait to complete the job.
The door is new oak, the sideboard is old paint.
IMG_3313.jpg


close up of same
IMG_3312.jpg


A bit of detail on the door. It's hard to photograph, but it's 15% gloss, I wanted 10% but they couldn't supply quickly. Anyway 15% works well.
IMG_3310.jpg


Now just new curtains, blinds and leather to go!
 
Last edited:
Well done Mark, she looks stunning.
Especially like the new E7 plotter & the interior, Alison wants one of the bbq's that fits to the rails for E3. Sorry to hear about the engine gremlins, 1 of the joys of boat ownership lol.

Hope your season goes well and you get a bit more play time.

Best wishes

Andy
 
Great stuff Mark

I gotta say, whoever painted the old wood grain did a fantastic job. I agree with you it should be changed, but top marks to anyone who can paint woodgrain like that. Mind you, he let himself down with the ragged fillet in your close up pic :D

I can see how the oak veneer is fab on the flat panels (respect on getting it htat good and the lacquering too) but what will you do with the nosing (eg on sideboard) that is finished in slightly orangy gloss? Simplest answer is maybe a full removal of the lacquer by heavy sanding, which should get rid of the yellow/orange and get you down to the open grain, then lacquer the same as the veneer. Lots of sanding neeeded though, sheesh. More heavy duty answer is get new replacement oak sections made, glue them on, and lacquer them. If the latter, you could score a few extra contemporary points by making the sections a bit more square and less bullnosey

I'm missing the yellow carpet but I'll get over it :D Loving the white caulk and fly plotter install. Dont forget the scatter cushions.

Sorry to miss a beer with you in OV t'other week - I was going out for a trial with a Fairline guy just as you were coming in!
 
Jurgen said:
Well done Mark, she looks stunning.
Especially like the new E7 plotter & the interior, Alison wants one of the bbq's that fits to the rails for E3. Sorry to hear about the engine gremlins, 1 of the joys of boat ownership lol.

Hope your season goes well and you get a bit more play time.

Best wishes

Andy
Click to expand...

Cheers Andy. I love the plotter and with a F/B the wifi to a full function iPad saves buying a lower helm device.
But it isn't a huge leap from the E120 you've got - I wouldn't consider changing it.

We used a cobb on E3, fits perfectly on the circle in the dash, port side. Light it 10 mins before you arrive at port and you pull in with flames pouring out of the dash :)

Question for you - where did you buy the pushbutton cupboard latch when you did the galley cupboard?
 
jfm said:
Great stuff Mark

I gotta say, whoever painted the old wood grain did a fantastic job. I agree with you it should be changed, but top marks to anyone who can paint woodgrain like that. Mind you, he let himself down with the ragged fillet in your close up pic :D

I can see how the oak veneer is fab on the flat panels (respect on getting it htat good and the lacquering too) but what will you do with the nosing (eg on sideboard) that is finished in slightly orangy gloss? Simplest answer is maybe a full removal of the lacquer by heavy sanding, which should get rid of the yellow/orange and get you down to the open grain, then lacquer the same as the veneer. Lots of sanding neeeded though, sheesh. More heavy duty answer is get new replacement oak sections made, glue them on, and lacquer them. If the latter, you could score a few extra contemporary points by making the sections a bit more square and less bullnosey

I'm missing the yellow carpet but I'll get over it :D Loving the white caulk and fly plotter install. Dont forget the scatter cushions.

Sorry to miss a beer with you in OV t'other week - I was going out for a trial with a Fairline guy just as you were coming in!
Click to expand...

You've articulated the entire thought process on the bullnose.
It is solid wood, and I think I may be even able to plane and sand to get the squared off finish.

Anyway the practice will take place in the galley which currently has a bullnose but the surface is being replaced with corian, or granite - kitchen guy is coming tonight.

I thought I'd follow you and get a running shot of match, but it was our first trip after the new manifold and the engine alarm went off at the end of the Itchen. It was just a burp, topped up the freshwater and it's never dropped since, but by then you'd gone.

anyway, 2 more pics for you
IMG_3232.jpg

IMG_3233.jpg
 
Elessar said:
Cheers Andy. I love the plotter and with a F/B the wifi to a full function iPad saves buying a lower helm device.
But it isn't a huge leap from the E120 you've got - I wouldn't consider changing it.

We used a cobb on E3, fits perfectly on the circle in the dash, port side. Light it 10 mins before you arrive at port and you pull in with flames pouring out of the dash :)

Question for you - where did you buy the pushbutton cupboard latch when you did the galley cupboard?
Click to expand...

Nick from Seabridge, that reminds me need to replace the other locking wheel on the Saloon skylight.

Like the Cobb idea, would love to be on the pontoon to see the dock masters face lol.

Will be sticking with the current plotter, as nice as the new Raymarine kit is my existing electronics do everything I need plus we're skintight lol.

Btw carpet looks top draw, sadly the hairy crew would make a complete mess of it
 
Thanks for the Match pics Mark!

Back to the nosing, here's another thought. Why not get "U" section american white oak made at your local Travis Perkins? The section could be contemporary square on the outer side, and bullnose/curve to match the existing profile (with a bit of slack) on the inner side. Then varnish and mitre them, then simply glue them OVER the existing nosing with pu adhesive (3M 3200 or similar, perhaps in black) or perhaps Gripfill. This would require zero elbow grease in terms of removing that old hard gloss laquer (which would be vvv difficult in the corners) and would save major destruction if you were to try to remove the old nosing. The U section could be cut with quite thin wall, so the new "over-nosing" doesn't bulk things up too much. Definitely this is the way I'd go, at least from what i can see in the pics

Also, where the existing nosing has a 4mm upstand/slight fiddle, on the sideboard top and the table base, just whack that upstand off (or down to 0.5mm) with an electric plane (plus chisel in the corners) so the new over-nosing recreates the 4mm "fiddle". That would look loads better than stacking a new 4mm on top of the existing 4mm. You could also take 10mm or so off the front of the existing nosing with a circular saw or jig saw, to get rid of some material and avoid a "bulking up" look. That probably makes sense. The name of the game here is just to avoid sandpaper and elbow grease on the old nosing (and make a quick conversion to squarer section) - a power saw is quick and easy with zero elbow grease, obviously

The bullnose ventilation "slats" above the fridge in the sideboard can just be chucked and repaced by new rectangular section oak - no need to over-nose those obviously

You could make the over-nose moulding yourself with a router but as you need a lot it might be easier to go to a wood place that has a moulding machine to whack you out a few long lengths

Hope I'm explaining this clearly...!
 
Last edited:
JFM's solution of changing the profile to a more modern one is probably best, but you could also consider some of the ver good modern sticky back plastics that would allow you to simply cover the existing nosing with a convincing (from a distance) oak pattern. Perhaps as a short term measure only though. Some of the SBPs are really very convincing now.
 
wakeup said:
JFM's solution of changing the profile to a more modern one is probably best, but you could also consider some of the ver good modern sticky back plastics that would allow you to simply cover the existing nosing with a convincing (from a distance) oak pattern. Perhaps as a short term measure only though. Some of the SBPs are really very convincing now.
Click to expand...

Isn't there one that starts with "f" and ends in something like "ablon"? ;)
 
jfm said:
Thanks for the Match pics Mark!

Back to the nosing, here's another thought. Why not get "U" section american white oak made at your local Travis Perkins? The section could be contemporary square on the outer side, and bullnose/curve to match the existing profile (with a bit of slack) on the inner side. Then varnish and mitre them, then simply glue them OVER the existing nosing with pu adhesive (3M 3200 or similar, perhaps in black) or perhaps Gripfill. This would require zero elbow grease in terms of removing that old hard gloss laquer (which would be vvv difficult in the corners) and would save major destruction if you were to try to remove the old nosing. The U section could be cut with quite thin wall, so the new "over-nosing" doesn't bulk things up too much. Definitely this is the way I'd go, at least from what i can see in the pics

Also, where the existing nosing has a 4mm upstand/slight fiddle, on the sideboard top and the table base, just whack that upstand off (or down to 0.5mm) with an electric plane (plus chisel in the corners) so the new over-nosing recreates the 4mm "fiddle". That would look loads better than stacking a new 4mm on top of the existing 4mm. You could also take 10mm or so off the front of the existing nosing with a circular saw or jig saw, to get rid of some material and avoid a "bulking up" look. That probably makes sense. The name of the game here is just to avoid sandpaper and elbow grease on the old nosing (and make a quick conversion to squarer section) - a power saw is quick and easy with zero elbow grease, obviously

The bullnose ventilation "slats" above the fridge in the sideboard can just be chucked and repaced by new rectangular section oak - no need to over-nose those obviously

You could make the over-nose moulding yourself with a router but as you need a lot it might be easier to go to a wood place that has a moulding machine to whack you out a few long lengths

Hope I'm explaining this clearly...!
Click to expand...

Yep it's clear :)

The bit by the fridge needs to come out to do, easy enough. All the edges are fiddled and quite bulky so it needs hacking back, but sticking over is a good plan I hadn't thought of. Need to look for an oak profile.

Thanks for the fablon idea guys but this is a no bodge solution, I want it to look good close up.

OK J, I'm clear on the edging and the fridge slats. how are you going to make my life easier for the bit mid window? I have a plan but I want to hear yours first!
CIMG7258.jpg
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Other threads that may be of interest

H
Chinese exhaust elbow - precaution
Replies
4
Views
358
Hangie
H
Refueler
Bow winch eye ...
2
Replies
20
Views
499
Refueler
Refueler

Share this page

Top