Most likely water leakage points VP AQ170 + 250 drive

I usually use Talcum Powder .....

I agree that relying on yard alone is not my way with something like this ... but once identified - I step back and do not annoy the guys doing the job.

One of the biggest problems is that the rear section is covered - making it hard to actually get in to see ... I am hoping that once rear benching is lifted out - I may be able to unscrew that rear section - opening up the area ..
 
I have the old Bump stop and its in good condition ... no lumps out of it ..

I thought of grinding away the old rusted metal bits stuck on it and on the sterndrive ... then gluing in place with plastic metal ... View attachment 177751

Here's an online photo of the bump stop and bellows tunnel.
Remove corrosion from bumber plate.
Rough up rear of rubber on old bumper.
Find that old tube with one last squeeze of goo, ( preferably not white, it makes you look like a cheap skate bodger ) apply goo ,position rubber on plate, Raise leg to hold bumpstop in place. Gentle pressure.
Go home and leave over night.
Sorted.
Curious as to when those bellows were last changed by the sounds of it it could be years prior to engine change.
Have suspicion that the life of the bellows life could be extended by use and shortened by being exposed to sunlight and permanently remaining in one fixed position. ????
:)
 
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The agent who sold the boat - he has a business here when home on vacation .. he's a Ships Master ... and he's away at present in far East commanding a Gas Ship ... but I have contact at various times with him.
I'll ask him if he knows when bellows were changed ... (he's as interested in the water leak as we are ... seriously).

Talking to yard guys here - they reckon average life is 3 - 5yrs on bellows .. with some lasting a lot longer.
 
Without wishing to spend someones elses money.
Unless you are convinced those bellows were done very recently , would suggest the leg is treated to new bellows and usual oil and seal checks carried out regardless while out of the water.
We are assuming this not something simple such as a leaking potable water tank or rain water ingress ?
 
Without wishing to spend someones elses money.
Unless you are convinced those bellows were done very recently , would suggest the leg is treated to new bellows and usual oil and seal checks carried out regardless while out of the water.
We are assuming this not something simple such as a leaking potable water tank or rain water ingress ?

Oh - don't feel bad .. I fully intend to have bellows changed anyway .. who knows what previous owner did or not do ..
 
There are a number of places around the transom where water could be getting in. The UJ bellows is one (and this needs fixing ASAP as it gets expensive), the two doughnut O rings are also a possibility, the transom shield itself could be leaking, the steering helmet shaft could also leak, the water inlet pipe could be split or perished, the gearshift cable goes down into a hose that could be split or perished.

Edit: also the exhaust where the aluminium down pipe from the elbow connects to the transom shield at the bottom.
 
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Now here's a question and it seems to have no clear answer one way or other .....

Is it best to raise the leg when not using the boat ? Or leave it down ? My mooring is deep enough to leave it down - so no worries such as a drying mooring etc.
I appreciate that leg raised when on trailer ...

Most I see have legs raised when not in use - but when looking online about bellows etc - odd posts talk about leaving leg raised when not using can lead to bellows failure ??
 
Now here's a question and it seems to have no clear answer one way or other .....

Is it best to raise the leg when not using the boat ? Or leave it down ? My mooring is deep enough to leave it down - so no worries such as a drying mooring etc.
I appreciate that leg raised when on trailer ...

Most I see have legs raised when not in use - but when looking online about bellows etc - odd posts talk about leaving leg raised when not using can lead to bellows failure ??
Leave it down unless the boat dries out.
 
Just asking for the most common water leakage points on the combo :

VP AQ170 with 250 sterndrive.

It must be something static - not cooling pump related as I pumped her out yesterday - replaced the non auto pump with an auto and today I saw about 4 - 5ltrs exiting the bilge pump outlet ... that's about 20hrs

Such volume indicates a largish leak - not a 'drip' ...

Engine temp runs good ... so I am not concerned about running the boat and not having engine cooled ... everything seems to run smooth .. so I'm hoping that I can delay lift till mid summer when I plan to give her a mid season clean-up.
UJ bellows?
Transom shield?
 
As Old Git has pointed out there could be ingress through drive bellows.
Chechen if water is dripping from flywheel housing
Remove starter and check for water ingress ?
Electric rams ?
Would they still have seals, or do you haul the leg up down with ropes ?
Gravity does it for you and hp keeps it down plus spring loaded lock
 
As a guide always used to lift my outdrives both on tidal and drying moorings.
Three previous boats had the things, a Princess 33 with a pair of 280T (the 270 with added problems) a Princess 25 with a single 280 plus a Americian Regal 23 almost held together with contact adhesive and possibly primarily constructed with flooring grade chipboard with pair of early Mercruiser legs, looked at carefully could be seen visibly dissolving in the water in front of your very eyes.
In our location cannot recall any problems with cylinder shaft seals being damaged by barnies, an infinite list of other things going wrong but not barnies.
We do have a few outdrive boats on our moorings some owners do leave them down, those fortunate enough to have working hydraulics at the time do raise them.
Refuelers leg might possibly have an little electric motor to mechanically raise/lower the leg as per the 270 ? , more frequently found in an Electrolux Vacuum cleaner. :)
 
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