Moody 33s Electrics / Battery Confusion

[alexcarr1113]

Hello all, sorry if this is the wrong place to post this but hopefully someone is able to help out. My dad has recently bought a Moody 33s and we are living onboard for a few days now just trying to figure everything out. We're not entirely sure what the deal is with the electrics though. There are 4 switches - 2 control the batteries (engine & leisure), one is a rotary dial with options for Off, Battery 1, Battery 2, and Both, and the last appears to be a sort of master power switch. When plugged into shore power we can have the batteries switched off and just have the master switch on, but after using lights for a while, the autohelm starts beeping uncontrollably. I figured out we can fix this by switching on battery 1, but this is worrying because we don't know if it is now draining the battery or why it is beeping. As well as this we have no idea if the shore power constantly charges the batteries or if we need to switch them on to allow charging. If anyone could help clear this up we would really appreciate it, as we are nervous to go to bed not knowing if the battery is draining overnight.

P.S. have already looked through the manuals left by the last owner, and also tried finding them online. For some reason there seems to be nowhere that explains how it all works.

Many thanks,
Alex.

 

[PetiteFleur]

Have you joined the Moody Owners Association? All your answers will be answered and there is a wealth of technical information available. Not expensive to join and you'll be very welcome. Where are you based? See Moody Owners Association | For owners of Moodys and Hanse built Moodys

 

[sgr143]

It's very probable that a boat of that age and type will have had its original electrical systems modified over the years, probably quite extensively. So manuals may not be much help.

A first step might be to see if there is actually a battery charger fitted (you could ask the previous owner if not sure?). My boat (not a Moody!) has 240V shore power, but it's completely independent of the 12V systems, which normally charge from the engine only. If I want to charge the batteries from the 240V system, which I do from time to time when the boat is ashore in the winter, I bring a portable charger on board. I don't have one of those fancy "battery condition monitors", but I do have an LED voltage display for the domestic system on the general electrical panel, which I find enough for me to have an idea of when I should go easy on what's switched on,

If your boat similarly has separate systems, then running your 12V lights etc. will of course run the batteries down, though I'm a bit baffled as to how they can run with (as you say) the 1-2-both switch switched off, unless the "master" switch is a sort of bypass for that? - which would be very odd. You are probably going to have to do some circuit tracing and work out your boat's own, possibly unique, system.

Incidentally, I have an aversion to those 1-2-both switches. I'm much happier with separate on-off switches for engine and domestic batteries, with a third switch to link the two if really needed if the engine battery has gone flat and you need to use the domestic battery as an emergency engine starter. That way there's much less chance of running them both flat, which can be annoying if you, say, want to start the engine should you find yourself in the way of a large, fast and densely-packed racing fleet (which we sailed ourselves away from, but it was a nasty moment when the starter just went "click" on either battery) .

[edit - thumbs-up to joining the MOA - a very helpful lot.]

 

[alexcarr1113]

It's very probable that a boat of that age and type will have had its original electrical systems modified over the years, probably quite extensively. So manuals may not be much help.

A first step might be to see if there is actually a battery charger fitted (you could ask the previous owner if not sure?). My boat (not a Moody!) has 240V shore power, but it's completely independent of the 12V systems, which normally charge from the engine only. If I want to charge the batteries from the 240V system, which I do from time to time when the boat is ashore in the winter, I bring a portable charger on board. I don't have one of those fancy "battery condition monitors", but I do have an LED voltage display for the domestic system on the general electrical panel, which I find enough for me to have an idea of when I should go easy on what's switched on,

If your boat similarly has separate systems, then running your 12V lights etc. will of course run the batteries down, though I'm a bit baffled as to how they can run with (as you say) the 1-2-both switch switched off, unless the "master" switch is a sort of bypass for that? - which would be very odd. You are probably going to have to do some circuit tracing and work out your boat's own, possibly unique, system.

Incidentally, I have an aversion to those 1-2-both switches. I'm much happier with separate on-off switches for engine and domestic batteries, with a third switch to link the two if really needed if the engine battery has gone flat and you need to use the domestic battery as an emergency engine starter. That way there's much less chance of running them both flat, which can be annoying if you, say, want to start the engine should you find yourself in the way of a large, fast and densely-packed racing fleet (which we sailed ourselves away from, but it was a nasty moment when the starter just went "click" on either battery) .

[edit - thumbs-up to joining the MOA - a very helpful lot.]

Thank you for this. Apparently, we do definitely have a charger so it can juice up the batteries from shore power. I can confirm that there are no online manuals for this specific system, so I guess circuit tracing is the best way to go from here. Thanks again for the reply

 

[alexcarr1113]

Have you joined the Moody Owners Association? All your answers will be answered and there is a wealth of technical information available. Not expensive to join and you'll be very welcome. Where are you based? See Moody Owners Association | For owners of Moodys and Hanse built Moodys

We will be joining the owners association imminently ! We are currently berthed in Chichester, but this is where the last owner kept it and we will be moving down to Portland for a permanent berth in the next few days,

 

[CAPTAIN FANTASTIC]

Welcome to the forum. I have a Moody 33S but as others have said, it is very likely that the electrics have been changed since it was made. I strongly suggest that you join the "Moody Owners Association" however, it is difficult to fully understand how your electrical system has been wired up; you will have to trace wires to find out how the circuits work; it is a very frustrating task. The Moody Owners Assoc have a technical library which can be very helpful.

 

[fredrussell]

It might be worth paying a boat electrician to spend half a day finding out how things are set up on the boat. Should be less than a hundred quid and worth it unless you’re up on boat electrickery

 

[PaulRainbow]

It might be worth paying a boat electrician to spend half a day finding out how things are set up on the boat. Should be less than a hundred quid and worth it unless you’re up on boat electrickery

Hmmm.........

 

[Just_sayin']

Hmmm.........

Perhaps back in the 70's ????

 

[fredrussell]

Hmmm.........

What’s your daily rate Paul Rainbow? More than £200 a day then? My marine electrician mate charges sub-£200 a day. I based my comment on that.

 

[Catalina36]

A £10 multimeter would help you discover what's live or not, 12 volt or 240 volt, when various switches are turned.

Digital Multimeter c/w Rubber Holster

It would also enable you to see whether one or more batteries are charging under different situations - 13 or 14 volts rather than 12 or less.

 

[RIBW]

We will be joining the owners association imminently! We are currently berthed in Chichester, but .... will be moving down to Portland for a permanent berth in the next few days,

+1 for joining the MOA and would recommend putting your situation on their technical forum before you move to Portland. (There are several knowledgeable Moody owners in Chichester - I've not seen as many contributions from Portland based people).

Also, if you pm me with an email address you are welcome to a powerpoint drawing of my electrical system which includes a 1-B-2-OFF switch. (I never use B).
It might yield a few clues to your current circuitry.

Cheers
Bob

 

[Just_sayin']

What’s your daily rate Paul Rainbow? More than £200 a day then? My marine electrician mate charges sub-£200 a day. I based my comment on that.

Cost for me, south coast,

£56.66 ph plus vat plus travel for grp repairs =£68.
£50.00 ph plus vat plus travel for electrical installation = £60.

A day? "£500".

Recent examples.

 

[Alex_Blackwood]

Hello all, sorry if this is the wrong place to post this but hopefully someone is able to help out. My dad has recently bought a Moody 33s and we are living onboard for a few days now just trying to figure everything out. We're not entirely sure what the deal is with the electrics though. There are 4 switches - 2 control the batteries (engine & leisure), one is a rotary dial with options for Off, Battery 1, Battery 2, and Both, and the last appears to be a sort of master power switch. When plugged into shore power we can have the batteries switched off and just have the master switch on, but after using lights for a while, the autohelm starts beeping uncontrollably. I figured out we can fix this by switching on battery 1, but this is worrying because we don't know if it is now draining the battery or why it is beeping. As well as this we have no idea if the shore power constantly charges the batteries or if we need to switch them on to allow charging. If anyone could help clear this up we would really appreciate it, as we are nervous to go to bed not knowing if the battery is draining overnight.

P.S. have already looked through the manuals left by the last owner, and also tried finding them online. For some reason there seems to be nowhere that explains how it all works.

Many thanks,
Alex.

I would suggest that you will have to trace out your own system, or, as has been suggested, get someone to do it for you. With all due respect to the helpful replies on here if you rely on descriptions of other systems you will end up totally confused. Be careful with a multimeter when using to measure voltage, make sure you are on the correct settings i.e. ac, dc, 240 v or 12 ( that will be the 20 volt DC setting)
I have no idea of how your system is set up so will make no further comment. Good Luck!

 

[PaulRainbow]

What’s your daily rate Paul Rainbow? More than £200 a day then? My marine electrician mate charges sub-£200 a day. I based my comment on that.

I don't have a daily rate, as such, i charge by the hour.

 

[fredrussell]

Cost for me, south coast,

£56.66 ph plus vat plus travel for grp repairs =£68.
£50.00 ph plus vat plus travel for electrical installation = £60.

A day? "£500".

Recent examples.

Crikey, I’d better tell my mate. He’s charging too little!

 

[Graham376]

I don't have a daily rate, as such, i charge by the hour.

Customers seem to forget travelling time, time locating and going for spares etc. They only think of the minutes spent on the job.

 

[Norman_E]

If the Autohelm is beeping it must be switched on. If you are not going anywhere switch it off. Either its draning the batteries and has a low voltage alarm, or its beeping because its trying to steer a stationary boat, and cannot do so.

 

[Just_sayin']

Crikey, I’d better tell my mate. He’s charging too little!

Where is he based? I have some work that I'd like done at the rate you mentioned, even if he has to travel.

 

[prv]

It's very probable that a boat of that age and type will have had its original electrical systems modified over the years, probably quite extensively. So manuals may not be much help.

Exactly this. Multiple “master switches“ strongly implies that a previous owner put together his own design of system which he no doubt thought was very clever, but which we cannot tell you how to use remotely. Very common in boats more than a few years old.

Assuming he didn’t leave any instructions, you’ll have to follow the wiring to figure out what’s connected to what. Draw a diagram to keep track of it. If, having traced all the wires and drawn the diagram, you aren’t sure how best to operate it, feel free to post that diagram (and photos of any mysterious boxes you can’t identify) and the forum will be delighted to deluge you with advice ?

Pete