Mercruiser risers ( with pics)

Thepipdoc

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Just thought I’d let you know the perils of not changing exhaust risers and manifolds as part of the regular service schedule!
Having bought my boat 12 months ago - a Searay Sundancer 270 with twin Mercruiser petrol 4.3L petrol engines and Alpha legs, I was a complete novice to boating but took to it instantly and so did my wife. We spent every weekend on the boat, and of course our annual holidays were spent afloat.

We have had various issues with it but to be fair the boat is 12years old and although it's only done 450 hrs, it’s becoming quite clear that parts will fail whether it’s done 450 hrs or 1,450hrs. I’m slowly working through replacing the various bits that I suspect could fail and if they do would land me with a potentially serious bill.

Unfortunately, since taking ownership I’ve had to lift the boat 3 times.... Once to replace a gear linkage cable from the port leg, another time to give both Alpha legs a full and proper service (bellows, bearings oils etc) and more recently to replace both of the risers and manifolds on the starboard engine.

Why lift the boat just to change the risers and manifolds I hear you ask..... Well, the reason was because the rubber flaps that sit in the “cowbell” that stop the water from flooding into the exhaust from the sea, had completely vaporised ( or so I thought, more on this later) and because there was nothing to stop water from flooding the boat and potentially sinking the boat, the mechanic quite rightly insisted that the boat should be lifted to ensure the work could go ahead in safety.

The reason the flaps had disappeared was because whilst out for a short trip one evening about 3 weeks ago we began to smell smoke. I thought the smell was from the land, possibly a garden fire ( we were about 400 yds from the coastline) but in fact the smell was from the engine bay on my boat. This became apparent when both engines suddenly stopped and the alarms started to sound. Smoke was billowing from the aft air vents and we were adrift heading for the rocks!

I won’t go into what happened next but as you can imagine I was using language like “flippin eck” and “gosh” .... not!

When the smoke had subsided and I was sure the heat had dissipated sufficient to open the engine bay hatch cover I was further surprised by the fact that the bilge had about 4 inches slopping about in it.

To keep the story fairly short, the boat was lifted and it soon became clear why the rubber bits on the starboard engine exhaust system had either melted or had tuned into charcoal was because of this:
See pics.

The channels where the cooling water is meant to flow were virtually non existent. The engine had begun to overheat and the rubber flaps had melted and the exhaust elbow rubbers were going the same way until both engines cut out. The fact that the engines stopped running probably saved the starboard engine from frying itself and saved me many thousands of pounds.

The rubber flaps and the stainless steel plates that and encased in them that I mentioned earlier were eventually found in the starboard leg. Sitting on top of the impeller housing!
Somehow they had managed to work their way through the cowbell waterway and would have remained in the leg had it not been for the mechanic insisting that the leg should be removed just to make sure the missing bits weren’t lodged in the leg housing.

At this point I still didn’t know if the engine had been damaged or not, and even though I had briefly started the engine several times after the initial breakdown I couldn’t be sure there was no damage till it was given a sea trial.

I’m very happy to report that the boat is back in the water and seems to be running as good as ever - fortunately.

On Monday I’m having both of the port risers and manifolds replaced and when that’s done both water pumps will be replaced. I don’t want any more issues with overheating engines!

And if you’re wondering why the bilge pump hadn’t removed the water that was flooding in through the exhaust elbow, this was because when the starboard engine had overheated the bilge pipe had partially melted (where it was touching the cowbell) and the pump as working but was only pumping water back in the bilge!

A bit of a long winded story, but if anyone out there is in two minds as to whether or not they should replace their risers and manifolds - err on the side of caution, otherwise little bill will very rapidly turn into BIG bill!
 
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Now got a set of these to do aswell, water has got into engine and is going to need new engine aswell as its been sitting like it all winter.:eek:
 
For any new to boating forumites who are not familiar with the delights of legs,esp raw water cooled petrols,have a look at this much disputed website.
http://www.yachtsurvey.com/exhaust_risers.htm
All a bit dated,but still relevant to buyers of older boats.
Replacing those risers is not the horrendously expensive it used to be due to pattern parts and you can get the job done at very sensible prices by a forumite.
 
I am not a fan of gasoline engines, particularly with raw water cooling.

In the US this stuff is almost throw away, as pattern manifolds are so inexpensive. Despite availability of cheap replacements large percentage of salt water boaters fit flush kits, for example Perko.

Why is the mind set so different here?
 
Why is the mind set so different here?

As wild guess..most of the boats over here are old US boats designed for raw cooling which have now begun to reach the bottom of the food chain.
Owner of fairly newish boat will have wherewithall (dosh) to fund replacement risers as this would be small percentage of boat value and job will get done ,a few years on and owners with a £5/6/7/800 just in case bill will probably leave it for another time.Hence sale of boat and next owner gets lumbered. ?
 
Why is the mind set so different here?

As wild guess..most of the boats over here are old US boats designed for raw cooling which have now begun to reach the bottom of the food chain.
Owner of fairly newish boat will have wherewithall (dosh) to fund replacement risers as this would be small percentage of boat value and job will get done ,a few years on and owners with a £5/6/7/800 just in case bill will probably leave it for another time.Hence sale of boat and next owner gets lumbered. ?


Of course and the environment they get used in is different.


Raw water cooled US boats were originally purchased for use on the big freshwater lakes out there.
Boats designed and purchased for use in salt water had freshwater cooling. Most US boats list freshwater cooling as an option at time of purchase.

My US built boat was originally purchased from Windermere Aquatic for use on the lake, hence it is raw water cooled.

Not an issue as I use it on a freshwater river, but if I were to use it in salt, then I could expect my engine to expire because of corrosion much sooner.

Of course, freshwater cooling does not help the manifolds and as they say, three years of salt equals rotted manifolds.

The OP was lucky that the water ports scaled up before the water jacket rusted through to the inlet and exhaust ports.
 
Not 100% sure I understand the answers.

Boaters in the U.S. generally utilise craft for more hours in a season than in Europe.

Freshwater boating is big, but zillions using of direct cool gasoline motors in salt water envioroment without aftermarket indiect cooling kits. Large proportion of direct cooled engines have flush valves such as Perko. Freshwater flushing of the raw water side of indiectly cooled engines both petrol and diesel is common with strainers available to take fresh water plumbing for flushing.

Plenty of outboard powered boats queuing for the hose to put on the muffs after a day on the water.

Direct cooled gasoline motors in sea water here, nobody seems to worry, that is until bits disintegrate.
 


The OP was lucky that the water ports scaled up before the water jacket rusted through to the inlet and exhaust ports.


I was indeed lucky.
I'm 100% positive if the engine hadn't stopped when it did there would have been terminal damage.
As with everything, we have to learn somewhere, and believe me, I've learnt!

Hence the port engine's risers and manifold are being replaced tomorrow along with both water pumps ( even though they both work perfectly well). As I said I don't want any more trouble with overheating engines!

I should perhaps add that if i had had original Mercruiser parts fitted instead of the pattern parts the bits alone would have cost in the region of £1800 per engine ( I was actually quoted this sometime ago). As it happens I'm not made of money and so I have gone with pattern parts for about £600 per engine.
 
I was indeed lucky.
I'm 100% positive if the engine hadn't stopped when it did there would have been terminal damage.
As with everything, we have to learn somewhere, and believe me, I've learnt!

Hence the port engine's risers and manifold are being replaced tomorrow along with both water pumps ( even though they both work perfectly well). As I said I don't want any more trouble with overheating engines!

I should perhaps add that if i had had original Mercruiser parts fitted instead of the pattern parts the bits alone would have cost in the region of £1800 per engine ( I was actually quoted this sometime ago). As it happens I'm not made of money and so I have gone with pattern parts for about £600 per engine.


Hi can you let me know where you got them from i am in need we had the same problem yesterday gutted regards mac
 
Hi Also you mentioned the flaps to stop the sea water coming up what part is that called mine is missing to just the little bar in there so will have to remove leg to fined the rest kind regards mac just a note i only just got the boat and had my first outing yesterday i was sure it was on fire shocking
 
Hi Also you mentioned the flaps to stop the sea water coming up what part is that called mine is missing to just the little bar in there so will have to remove leg to fined the rest kind regards mac just a note i only just got the boat and had my first outing yesterday i was sure it was on fire shocking

Called a flapper or flapper valve.

Usually the first casualty in a overheat situation. Cost about £25 IIRC from merc / quicksilver dealers.

Exhaust_flaps_4ae57a65db61e.jpg
 
I had this happen many years ago, and the answer to your question was that I sourced the parts at that time from "Keypart".

Equally, I have bought from a chap in Poole whom seems to do these parts also = Trickett Marine, ask for Don.
 
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