iona
Member
Does anyone have any experiences of cruising this area? Is it just marinas or are there anchorages too? (have seen the recent posts on marina smir). Any help much appreciated!
Mediteranean Morocco
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Amphitrite
New member
Hi Iona,
I did some research on that topic too last spring - virtually no marinas. Only Marina Smir and, if yet open, in the brand new resort Saidia, close to the border to Algeria. In between small fishing harbours (but very few) and the port of Ceuta (Spanish). I had contact with a german guy who had cruised the coast and said if was lovely. However, very remote and close to the Riff Mountains - which are notorious for drugs... and quite a lot of Africans keen on a cheap passage to Europe - that is what ultimately held back from sailing there.
I did some research on that topic too last spring - virtually no marinas. Only Marina Smir and, if yet open, in the brand new resort Saidia, close to the border to Algeria. In between small fishing harbours (but very few) and the port of Ceuta (Spanish). I had contact with a german guy who had cruised the coast and said if was lovely. However, very remote and close to the Riff Mountains - which are notorious for drugs... and quite a lot of Africans keen on a cheap passage to Europe - that is what ultimately held back from sailing there.
Oliveoyl
New member
Take a look on Google Earth - you may be able to identify the odd promising anchorage, but we tried, and didn't see many. Saïdia still seems to be an "artist's impression"
Sea Devil
Well-known member
Tangier is probably the nicest of all the Morocco ports and I have visited many times and really enjoyed the place. Very secure.
A few years ago I visited all the ports in a trip from Tangier all the way round to The Spanish enclave on the Moroccan boarder with Algeria.
It was interesting and fun. A lot of the little fishing villages only saw a 'foreign Yacht' once or twice a year. for the local officials it was a bit of a challenge to 'do the paperwork' so that took a bit of time... Most of the fishing ports are guarded by the army so leaving the boat whilst you go ashore is no problem...
Nice people - really friendly and no 'tourist' hassle's in the little ports and harbours.
Michael
A few years ago I visited all the ports in a trip from Tangier all the way round to The Spanish enclave on the Moroccan boarder with Algeria.
It was interesting and fun. A lot of the little fishing villages only saw a 'foreign Yacht' once or twice a year. for the local officials it was a bit of a challenge to 'do the paperwork' so that took a bit of time... Most of the fishing ports are guarded by the army so leaving the boat whilst you go ashore is no problem...
Nice people - really friendly and no 'tourist' hassle's in the little ports and harbours.
Michael
Conachair
Guest
Sounds like an interesting trip, thinking of similar myself next year. Which pilot book did you use?
Padz - Conachair
Padz - Conachair
Sea Devil
Well-known member
I used the standard Western Mediterranean Pilot ( probably by Rod Heikel) but I remember really using the charts... Finding a place with a name beside it on the coast and just going there... There always was a port, Al Hochehima springs to mind.
Michael
Michael
sonic
New member
I am just back from sailing on the east side of Morocco if you want some good information the guy you should contact is Jim Fields at Trafalgar sailing in Gibraltar he has sailed there for about 20 years. Hope this helps
Grehan
Well-known member
As a bit of further information, there is a really good comprehensive guide to sailing and berthing in the Straits area. The Straits Sailing Handbook ([url]http://www.straits-sail.com/handbook/index.shtml)[/url].
It's been published for many years by Colin Thomas of "Straits Sailing" school ([url]http://www.straits-sail.com) [/url] and is updated annually.
Interestingly, he states right off, in the opening paragraph of the latest 2006 edition of the book, that he will not include information about Tangier because he doesn't want to encourage anyone to go there. He says the harbour is very dirty and unsafe. Separately, I've heard a number of people say that if your first experience of Morocco is Tangier, you'll never return because of the bad impression. I've also met folk who had just sailed back from the Canaries via Western Morocco and who had very bad experiences of corruption, customs, police, navy etc. there.
Personally, I can't speak from first hand experience of Tangier, but that's what I've read/been told - (MarinaSmir on the Eastern coast, where I have been, was just fine - and I've been told that Ceuta is good, too) - any comments, MichaelE?
It's been published for many years by Colin Thomas of "Straits Sailing" school ([url]http://www.straits-sail.com) [/url] and is updated annually.
Interestingly, he states right off, in the opening paragraph of the latest 2006 edition of the book, that he will not include information about Tangier because he doesn't want to encourage anyone to go there. He says the harbour is very dirty and unsafe. Separately, I've heard a number of people say that if your first experience of Morocco is Tangier, you'll never return because of the bad impression. I've also met folk who had just sailed back from the Canaries via Western Morocco and who had very bad experiences of corruption, customs, police, navy etc. there.
Personally, I can't speak from first hand experience of Tangier, but that's what I've read/been told - (MarinaSmir on the Eastern coast, where I have been, was just fine - and I've been told that Ceuta is good, too) - any comments, MichaelE?
Sea Devil
Well-known member
Different strokes for different folks. I must have been into Tangier around 20 or 30 times and love it.. Of course it is not a marina - you raft up under the police - harbour masters tower. Opposite are all the little fishing boats that go out night and day to turn a buck in the approaches.. Always overcrowded - I think the 'crew' just get a share of the catch - no pay.
Very secure. There is a guy in a Berber beside a little fire who 'guards' the boats.. Well he does sort of -- if anybody non 'boaty' set foot on one he would call the police by giving a shout.. When you leave you 'tip' him by giving him whatever local currency you have..
The port itself is a 'free-port' so you have to show your passport to get in and out.. That stops most of the town... The kids (and older) trying to make the tourists part with their dosh soon recognise your face and when you say you are off a sail boat - they understand you are not going to part with your dosh.
The veggie markets are to die for. The spice and fruit markets make 'Kingston on Thames' look pretty dowdy. There are some great restaurants, wonderful souk, lovely people, amazing amounts of 'tomato like plants' growing in the hills and the houses of some of the richest people in the world up on the top of the town and the hillside...
I will always be going back - love it - but then its not a marina with pontoons and the feel of a caravan site... Actually don't tell too many people about it or they will make it a marina and turn the souk into Sainsburys!!
Michael
Very secure. There is a guy in a Berber beside a little fire who 'guards' the boats.. Well he does sort of -- if anybody non 'boaty' set foot on one he would call the police by giving a shout.. When you leave you 'tip' him by giving him whatever local currency you have..
The port itself is a 'free-port' so you have to show your passport to get in and out.. That stops most of the town... The kids (and older) trying to make the tourists part with their dosh soon recognise your face and when you say you are off a sail boat - they understand you are not going to part with your dosh.
The veggie markets are to die for. The spice and fruit markets make 'Kingston on Thames' look pretty dowdy. There are some great restaurants, wonderful souk, lovely people, amazing amounts of 'tomato like plants' growing in the hills and the houses of some of the richest people in the world up on the top of the town and the hillside...
I will always be going back - love it - but then its not a marina with pontoons and the feel of a caravan site... Actually don't tell too many people about it or they will make it a marina and turn the souk into Sainsburys!!
Michael
Amphitrite
New member
I have used this handbook for the transit through the Gibraltar Straits and it is indeed great. No other publication gave such detailed (and easily understandable) advice on calculating the tides....
He had the warning for Tangier already in place in 2004, and we did not go.
However, as reported before, we went to Mohammedia and Safi and absolutely loved it.
Regarding the negatice reports of the area, I think it almost wholly depends on how you behave.
For example, when we entered Mohammdia after a bad blow (F9), we politely asked and where granted permission to moor next to the tugs and could stay until the next morning ("marina" was full). Paperwork was a bit time-consuming, but very friendly and helpful (Customs officer took us in his car to safe me a long walk to his office).
Only half an hour later another Yacht arrived. They behaved so reckless (claiming to pay backshish over the VHF etc., did not show courtesey flag and would not speak any french or english), that they were thrown out after 6 hours. And for refueling, they were send for a 3 mile walk around the port to the pumb, which was just opposite of their berth...
The next day, we where offered to stay in the marina as long as we wanted, a diver came to arrange for a stronger and longer mooring and fueling would also have been possible.
So regarding all these mixed reports, I think it depends on how you behave towards the officials, and they will treat you the same way!
He had the warning for Tangier already in place in 2004, and we did not go.
However, as reported before, we went to Mohammedia and Safi and absolutely loved it.
Regarding the negatice reports of the area, I think it almost wholly depends on how you behave.
For example, when we entered Mohammdia after a bad blow (F9), we politely asked and where granted permission to moor next to the tugs and could stay until the next morning ("marina" was full). Paperwork was a bit time-consuming, but very friendly and helpful (Customs officer took us in his car to safe me a long walk to his office).
Only half an hour later another Yacht arrived. They behaved so reckless (claiming to pay backshish over the VHF etc., did not show courtesey flag and would not speak any french or english), that they were thrown out after 6 hours. And for refueling, they were send for a 3 mile walk around the port to the pumb, which was just opposite of their berth...
The next day, we where offered to stay in the marina as long as we wanted, a diver came to arrange for a stronger and longer mooring and fueling would also have been possible.
So regarding all these mixed reports, I think it depends on how you behave towards the officials, and they will treat you the same way!
Oliveoyl
New member
We've done 2 overland trips to Morocco - the 1st left me gobsamacked at Ceuta - culture shock that almost made me turn back!The next 2 weeks were 50/50 rip-off, 50/50 pure pleasure. The 2nd time, having learnt how to (politely) avoid the rip offs, the rest was 110% fun. Have not had a land based holiday since then, but if time and finances would permit, would go back tomorrow.In the deepest countryside, I found the "Inch'allah" approach very ... relaxing? spiritual? Don't know. Whatever, it's a country that stole my heart. Can't wait to try by sea
Conachair
Guest
I've been twice to Tangier via ferry from Algeciras and really liked the place, though I could see why many would warn against it. Oscar winning touts galore but not a problem once you get used to saying no to people. Never felt threatened though wouldn't go near the darker alleys at night. I find much of London worse. I found people friendly though with so many touts I was very much on guard. Without doubt in my mind the easiest "non western" city to get to from Europe. And worth it for that alone. I'm hoping to sail there next year to get various leather bits made for the boat and stock up on spices!
gunnarsilins
New member
Was in Tangier spring 2005 and stayed more than a week. Friendly and safe with 24 h guard overlooking the 'marina'. Dirty yes, somewhat. But which major port is not dirty?
The markets are fanatstic and the food as well. Go there!
The markets are fanatstic and the food as well. Go there!
iona
Member
Thanks one and all for your help, sounds interesting and will get the Straits handbook.