Med via Southern or Northern route (Spain or Libya)

Nostrodamus

New member
Joined
7 Mar 2011
Messages
3,659
www.cygnus3.com
If going into the Med and heading for the eastern end would you be quiet happy to go the Southern route via Morocco, Tunisia, Libya, Egypt where it is probably cheaper and a bit of a change or would you still do the usual Northern route via Spain, France, Italy etc.

Has anyone been via the southern route and how did you find it?
 

macd

Active member
Joined
25 Jan 2004
Messages
10,604
Location
Bricks & mortar: Italy. Boat: Aegean
Visit site
For a seer you don't half ask a lot of questions ;)

Not done that route, but you missed fun-loving Algeria from your list. I met a couple a few years ago who put in there with serious steering trouble: boat was impounded, they were put under house arrest. It lasted interminably and was very unpleasant. But it could be cheap.

Libya, I'd have thought, is a place for the seriously adventurous at present.

I've travelled large chunks of N Africa by land. It has terrific deserts, which I quite like, but not by boat. For sailing interest and scenery (not to mention safe anchorages), I'd take the middle route any time: Balearics/Corsica/Sardinia/Sicily and on.
 
Last edited:

chinita

Well-known member
Joined
11 Dec 2005
Messages
13,224
Location
Outer Hebrides
Visit site
We went Gib, S Spain, Balearics, Sardinia, Tunisia, Lampedusa, Malta.

Tunisia (Bizerte), boat was boarded, on a Sunday afternoon, three times by officials within one hour. Police officer, Police officer's boss (in civvies) and Customs officer. All very pleasant, showed us photos of kids etc. Then wanted to know what we had 'for them'. They wanted to retain our original papers and passports but we politely told them that was not possible.

Spanish Gin, Brandy and cigarettes not good enough. They wanted Johnny Walker, Gordons and Marlboro. They found my stash of Woods rum and took it. They also sprayed themselves with SWMBO's perfume (but must have regretted it after being given a very sharp tongue lashing).

I understand that this stuff is not for their personal consumption but will be sold on.

We needed to pay an old guy (in fags) to look after the boat whilst we were ashore. No real issue with that.

When we checked out of the marina our bill was four times the published rates. Try arguing in French or arabic about that!

Before leaving we were boarded again by Police officer who asked us our next port 'so we can look after you on your way'. We said we were planning to find anchorages. 'No anchoring is permitted' he said.

We said 'Lampedusa' and legged it.

Some will say that this baksheesh stuff is fine and get used to it. Not for us.
 

Nostrodamus

New member
Joined
7 Mar 2011
Messages
3,659
www.cygnus3.com
Thank you for your replies.
By what has been said so far I best stick with the Northern route but .... life is an adventure so mabey...
 

Nostrodamus

New member
Joined
7 Mar 2011
Messages
3,659
www.cygnus3.com
Which might be why I wrote: "For sailing interest and scenery (not to mention safe anchorages), I'd take the middle route any time: Balearics/Corsica/Sardinia/Sicily and on."

Thank you for all your replies.
Trying to avoid the more expensive north side and find a way through which would allow us to anchor when possible. The middle route is now looking good.
 

macd

Active member
Joined
25 Jan 2004
Messages
10,604
Location
Bricks & mortar: Italy. Boat: Aegean
Visit site
Unless conditions are very unusual, there's no need to do anything but anchor all the way from Cabo de Gata (where the bloody horrible Costa del Sol becomes the Costa Blanca), all the way to Greece. The Cabo de Gata anchorage itself is superb.

The most obvious exception might seem to be in the Straits of Messina and at Rocella Ionica near the 'instep' of Italy. However, there's a reasonable anchorage near Saline Ioniche on the mainland shore towards the S end of the straights.

Rocella Ionica (when I was last there in 2010) was dredged (minimum 5m, near outer breakwater end, checked with lead line) so there's no need to enter via the dogleg the pilot book recommends. (It would be wise to seek more up-to-date info as the area is prone to silting and conditions change.) A charge (20 Euros?) is now levied at the marina but providing winds are not southerly, the adjacent anchorage immediately W of the harbour is excellent with good holding over sand.

A few other thoughts:
Forget any cliches about the Baleraics. The N coasts of the three main islands are spectacular and largely unspoilt. They are exposed to prevailing winds, but good shelter can be found in most conditions.

Sothern Corsica I loved: some truly gorgeous anchorages. Bonifacio should also not be missed, depite being v touristy.

Cefalu on N coast of Sicily well worth a visit. Anchor off marina in perfect shelter to E of the town. Aeolian islands also well worth seeing, esp Vulcano (good anchorages) and Stromboli (if conditions benign).

This route pretty well requires at least two passages of close to 200 miles (Minorca-Sardinia and Sardinia-Sicily), plus a third (Rocella Ionica-Greece) if you chose the more direct route. Other than that it can be all day-sailing.

Fair winds.
 
Last edited:

jordanbasset

Well-known member
Joined
31 Dec 2007
Messages
34,743
Location
UK, sometimes Greece and Spain
Visit site
Unless conditions are very unusual, there's no need to do anything but anchor all the way from Cabo de Gata (where the bloody horrible Costa del Sol becomes the Costa Blanca), all the way to Greece. The Cabo de Gata anchorage tself is superb.

The most obvious exception might seem to be in the Straits of Messina and at Rocella Ionica near the 'instep' of Italy. However, there's a reasonable anchorage under (I think) Capo de Milazzo on the mainland shore towards the S end of the straights.

Rocella Ionica (when I was last there in 2010) was dredged (minimum 5m, near outer breakwater end, checked with lead line) so there's no need to enter via the dogleg the pilot book recommends. (It would be wise to seek more up-to-date info as the area is prone to silting and conditons change.) Providing winds are not southerly, the adjacent anchorage immediately W of the harbour is excellent with good holding over sand.

A few other thoughts:
Forget any cliches about the Baleraics. The N coasts of the three main islands are spectacular and largely unspoilt. They are exposed to prevailing winds, but good shelter can be found in most conditions.

Sothern Corsica I loved: some truly gorgeous anchorages. Bonifacio should also not be missed, depite being v touristy.

Cefalu on N coast of Sicily well worth a visit. Anchor off marina in perfect shelter to E of the town. Aeolian islands also well worth seeing, esp Vulcano (good anchorages) and Stromboli (if conditions benign).

This route pretty well requires at least two passages of close to 200 miles (Minorca-Sardinia and Sardinia-Sicily), plus a third (Rocella Ionica-Greece) if you chose the more direct route. Other than that it can be all day-sailing.

Fair winds.

A good summary and pretty much agrees with what we found. Particularly the Balearic Islands and the North coast of Majorca. Also, with the exception of high season, PortsIb are very reasonable in terms of cost, indeed found the among the cheapest (not the cheapest) of places to moor up, when compared to marinas in France and Portugal.
Would also make a diversion to Malta, place seems to be a like it or hate it destination, we liked it. We anchored or tied up to a buoy for free for the two weeks were there.
 

macd

Active member
Joined
25 Jan 2004
Messages
10,604
Location
Bricks & mortar: Italy. Boat: Aegean
Visit site
Thanks jordanbasset, but I've checked my log and the reference to Capo de Milazzo is wrong: that's a good anchorage but some miles W of the Straights. The anchorage in the Straights I was referring to is near the wreck near Saline Ioniche, also under a headland. This is particularly useful as there are few other anchorages in the area.

I've amended my original post to this effect.
 

[27631]

N/A
Joined
5 Sep 2007
Messages
351
Visit site
south route

............why not apply to Algeria for a visa to pass thro'..with a few stops.you never know.they may grant it!And..it would be an interesting way to go.I am considering doing it myself,singlehanded.Taboo no go areas..are always a lure.....and you would have some interesting stuff/info to put up here..
 

capnsensible

Well-known member
Joined
15 Mar 2007
Messages
46,438
Location
Atlantic
Visit site
Lots to see and do on the north side, could take you years!

If you need to go a bit quicker, though perhaps straight through to Malta, stay south. Earlier this year I delivered a yacht from Spain to Turkey, where time is wonga.

From Sotogrande, legged it along the Spanish coast to Almerimar and bunkered to the brim. (turns out didnt need it!)

East across Palos to close in on the Algerian coast, couple of miles off. Spoke to Oran Radio, gave all details 248 times cleared to crack on. North Africa Pilot (Graham Hutt, met him) indicates a good east setting current. We rode that for a coupe of days to Cap Bon. Diesel saver on light days. Up to 2 knots.

Had another visit from an Algerian Customs launch, didnt slow us down whilst I repeated all details another umpteen times, nice blokes.

Pit stopped Isle Galite, off Tunisia, not very busy customs chap gave up trying to write down our details and talked footy. Didnt mention ICC at all......

End result, Soto to Malta 7 days and a few hours. Way to go if you are in a hurry.

Hope this helps.

CS
 

capnsensible

Well-known member
Joined
15 Mar 2007
Messages
46,438
Location
Atlantic
Visit site
Here is a really rubbish picture of Algiers....

P1000968.jpg
 

Sybarite

Well-known member
Joined
7 Dec 2002
Messages
27,683
Location
France
Visit site
There are apparently a lot of Bretons in the marinas in Tunisia. Costs there are a fraction of those in Europe, both for marina itself and for work that needs to be done. Or so it was explained to me by a Breton who keeps his 14m boat there.
 

Zen Zero

New member
Joined
11 Mar 2011
Messages
1,591
Location
Boat:Syvota, Epirus, Greece. Me:Rome, Italy
Visit site
There are apparently a lot of Bretons in the marinas in Tunisia. Costs there are a fraction of those in Europe, both for marina itself and for work that needs to be done. Or so it was explained to me by a Breton who keeps his 14m boat there.

I wonder if we both know the same breton? But no, they're in Greece this year.

Algeria sounds like fun! As far as I can make out there's only one yacht harbour, Sidi Fredj a few miles West of Algiers.
 
Last edited:
Top