Maxpower Thruster not working!

[kennyh]

Hi all.

I’ve a Maxpower bow thruster in my boat that’s playing up!

When using the joystick, the power comes on intermittently. It’s now got worse and only works on one side.

I’m thinking it could be the Joystick (the MaxPower Simple Joystick).

Q: Has anyone else had a similar problem? How can I diagnose the issue; has anyone a circuit diagram for the Joystick, so I can test if that’s the issue? And if the Joystick can it be opened and cleaned to get it working again?

 

[Sticky Fingers]

The joystick is just a switch, so unplugging it and testing for continuity and minimal resistance with a multimeter would be a straightforward first step. With it disconnected, you can also simulate its function by linking the cables to the thruster relay in turn, ie link port then starboard. Those two tests will identify whether the joystick is the problem, or not.

 

[Seastoke]

Just swap one side wire with the other that should show up the joy stick , it could be a relay.

 

[kennyh]

I’ll do that.

Anyone disassembled to clean the switch contacts?

 

[Seastoke]

I’ll do that.

Anyone disassembled to clean the switch contacts?

I would not hard to clean , it will fall bits, you could turn power off and cover it in electronic cleaner as it evaporates , don’t use WD.

 

[kashurst]

The MaxPower thrusters have a bit of electronics in them to prevent rapid operation of the motor from left to right and also to inhibit the fly bridge control while the lower helm is being used etc. There is a little black box in with the motor and a bit more inside the joysticks. There is an enable button too that allows operation for a few minutes then turns the thing off - which is incredibly annoying!!!!

Unfortunately they are not waterproofed very well. As I discovered. In the end I removed the electronics and used a few relays and diodes to make a new box so that the lower and upper helm controls could not be operated at the same time. I didn't do anything about rapid left to right switching.

 

[Momac]

I had a similar issue earlier this year .
A good spray of contact cleaner sorted it out. But that's not necessarily your problem but worth a go.
Mine is QL thruster .
If you take the switch out you may be able to see part numbers on the switch unit.

 

[kennyh]

Thanks for the comments; I’ll try opening it up and getting access to the switches to clean / spray.

I need it working for a trip in a few days and getting a replacement in that time will be pushing it.

 

[Sticky Fingers]

Have you diagnosed where the fault lies?

 

[kennyh]

Have you diagnosed where the fault lies?

No. Not near the boat - going strip things tomorrow / check the wiring etc. Assuming I get to the micro switches I’ll test each with a multimeter.

 

[Sticky Fingers]

No. Not near the boat - going strip things tomorrow / check the wiring etc. Assuming I get to the micro switches I’ll test each with a multimeter.

Ok, my thought was that it’s pointless spending time disassembling the switch if the fault lies elsewhere!

 

[kennyh]

Ok, my thought was that it’s pointless spending time disassembling the switch if the fault lies elsewhere!

Agreed. I’ll do a continuity test on the harness and the switches before stripping the joystick down.

The difficulty is that it is a 6 core cable and the joystick needs powered up and enabled before the control wires become active (I think). So it might need to be disassembled to get access to the microswitch external connections to check it.

I’m also assuming the joystick will run at 12v; can anyone confirm if that is the case or will it want 24v or 5v?

 

[kennyh]

An update:

Joystick was not the problem… it tested ok.

Problem was the Solenoid/Relay contact surfaces to switch on power for Motor.

I cleaned them using Contact Cleaner and used an emery board/nail file (as suggested by the U.K. distributor for Maxpower).

Now working fine

Attached pic shows where to clean.

 

[Seastoke]

That’s a good result , but the contacts have a coating on them, so once you file the pitting off , it will fail again but could weld together so make sure you replace the relay or you could end up in a situation. But your shout.

 

[Bouba]

I don’t know about your particular thruster….but if it has carbon brushes…I would thoroughly clean the old carbon dust…and check whether the brushes need replacing

 

[Zing]

It looks like an Albright contactor. I’d replace it or the contacts as a minimum. Once this happens it is prone to repeat quite soon.

 

[kennyh]

That’s a good result , but the contacts have a coating on them, so once you file the pitting off , it will fail again but could weld together so make sure you replace the relay or you could end up in a situation. But your shout.

I gave it just a few brushes with the emery board (as recommended by the distributor) so hopefully all ok.

I do plan to strip later to give a good clean / service once I figure out how to remove the relays.

 

[kennyh]

Following up on this….. relay worked fine for my boat relocation to Portavadie

Now planning to overhaul the contacts on the relay.

Q: Has anyone taken these type of relays apart to change the contacts? Is it a simple process?

 

[Seastoke]

First thing is check you can get just the contacts.

 

[tico]

Yes, the contactors are made by Albright.... replacement Tip kits are available, and it's an easy job to change.
Look at forklift truck spares suppliers