Mast cable connections below deck. Want to do a tidy job.

[FairweatherDave]

Due to the contour of the deck around the mast I can't do a cableport but can do a swan neck fitting. The next issue is making a nice job of the connections below deck. Currently they have been "chocolate boxed" and taped and then sit on top of a headlining panel either in the heads or just outside the door. I am thinking a junction box might be nice, but before that should I be doing better than chocolate box connectors? The VHF would be its own kind of join but the radar has 12 joins via chocolate box type, the wind instrument cable I'm not sure what to do and I need to replace the tricolour and mast head connections which are expired deck plugs at present. Suggestions of good connectors welcome. Obviously I need to be able to disconnect and remove the wires through the swan neck fitting. Part of the reason for posting is to see how people hide the wiring joins, do people fix stuff to the underside of the deck in a tidy way or do most let it just sit on top of the headlining panel (if they have one).

 

[Jabs]

Tinned brass chocolate block with heat shrink adhesive lined ferrules is the best way to go.


Tony

 

[prv]

Personally I like SuperSeal for 12v supplies and non-RF signals. Two to eight poles, very weatherproof if not submersible, easy to connect and disconnect, and available quite cheaply on eBay.

Pete

 

[Yellow Ballad]

Depending on the size of cable check out "Aviation Plugs".

This is what I'm thinking of using on mine as the mast is down every year.

 

[fisherman]

RS online, or Rapid online maybe worth a trawl through, I tried but not exactly sure what you want.

 

[BabaYaga]

Suggestions of good connectors welcome.

For two and three pole connections, like for navigation lights, I use these gold plated contacts. They are very slim and will pass the swan neck easily.
Click info for 'gold contact' here:
http://www.mitron.se/
For the multi pole connections the 'contact strip' might be suitable. Have not used that myself.

 

[matthewriches]

I use a lot of Bulgin plugs, sockets and trailing sockets for applications like this. Pretty much everything bar coax can go down them.

 

[Jokani]

This was one of my projects last winter, I used a swan neck, and this arrangement for the connections. VHF was via a separate Shakespear Deck Gland. Happy with it so far.

 

[Malish]

Use some velcro stuck to the underside of the deck and attached your connection block to it. Better than it just sitting on top of your headlining whilst giving some flexibility. Assumes the headlining is easily removable

 

[FairweatherDave]

Thanks all for brand names of the various connectors, that gives me a good start. Great pik Gary, where is that box mounted? I don't recognize all the contents but proper job! Equally the conventional sandwich between deck and headlining plus some velcro on whatever I go for is easier. What will be nice with the swan neck is only having to drop one headlining panel.
One question regarding the swan neck. Do people expose (ventilate) the bottom entrance to the swan neck so that any wet stuff (that never gets in) doesn't sit above the headlining? I guess that is what is behind my "junction box" idea.

 

[<152587>]

Are you using the Cat3a coupler for the radar?

 

[FairweatherDave]

Are you using the Cat3a coupler for the radar?

The connection I dismantled to drop the mast was 12 chocolate box connectors. I'll have to google a Cat3a coupler. The question is would it fit through a swan neck when apart?

 

[Jokani]

Gary, where is that box mounted?

I was lucky and able to position the swan neck so that the cables drop down in to the heads, and I could position the box in a corner out of the way. My solar panel cables are in the same box.

 

[Jokani]

Are you using the Cat3a coupler for the radar?

That is for a Ubiquiti Bullet AirMAX (BM2‑Ti) with POE.

 

[FairweatherDave]

I was lucky and able to position the swan neck so that the cables drop down in to the heads, and I could position the box in a corner out of the way. My solar panel cables are in the same box.

Ah! Good point about your solar panel cables. I've been thinking about installing a solar panel just for battery top up and wondered about the cabling route.

 

[Graham_Wright]

A couple of points;-

Swan necks are very useful for tripping over, breaking toes and snaring sheets. However - you've gone that way.

If you fear lightning strikes, you need to be able to disconnect. That points you to plugs. Bulgin are great but the connections to the pins a bit small.

A plug for the radar cable is probably a no - no. Disconnect at the plotter.

Chocolate blocks are badly maligned. The cable connectors seem universally brass, the screws universally steel. I replaced mine with stainless grub screws. They sometimes needed tapping to suit but that is easy with a cordless drill.

 

[fisherman]

For bilge alarm and pump connections I used a waterproof box designed for a trailer. Pity trailer plugs are so unreliable.....

 

[RadiumRob]

I achieved a very tidy and successful result on my radar cable using "Waterproof Solder & Seal Heat Shrink Butt Connectors With Soldering Sleeve", available in various diameters from Amazon/eBay and elsewhere no doubt. Simply slide the connector over one cable, twist the exposed cable ends together, position the solder-containing area of the connector over the join, then play a gas soldering iron over it until the solder liquefies and the plastic sleeve shrinks to seal the joint. Simple, quick, effective, compact and cheap.

 

[prv]

A plug for the radar cable is probably a no - no. Disconnect at the plotter.

Modern radars are ethernet - crimp on standard RJ45s and join with one of the many waterproof couplers available.

The OP's seemingly isn't this type, but I joined my old Raymarine cable quite successfully with crimped-on Superseal for the power and data/pulse lines, and soldered RCA plug and socket (plus heatshrink covering for protection and security) for the video co-ax.

Pete