Markings on anchor chain.

[jbweston]

I have trouble remembering the order of colours. I use short lengths of thin codline knotted tghrough the links. One long for each 10 metres and a short for the 5 metres in between. So two longs and a short, 25 metres. 3 lomgs, 30 metres etc. That way none of us have to remember a sequence.

Codline is easy on the hands (unlike cable ties), passes over the gypsy well and you can feel them in the dark. Also very durable - they've been in position 11 years now.

 

[CAPTAIN FANTASTIC]

Yellow every 10 metres and Red on the last 10 metres.

 

[coopec]

Yellow every 10 metres and Red on the last 10 metres.

What about RED -WHITE - BLUE? (I can remember that!)

 

[vyv_cox]

With a Maxwell windlass there's a rope drum as well as a chain gypsy, which is handy for having a mixed rode.

We have one but it would take remarkable skill to transfer the rode from one to the other. The capstan is great for warps and lazy lines but I could not use it for a rope rode.

 

[dunedin]

We use the little plastic inserts in the chain - very simple system, Blue is 5, Red is 10 and Yellow is 50.
So if ever got 75m out t is Yellow, Red,Red, Blue. Simples.

And before anybody says the plastic bits fall out, not if properly inserted with the edges correct both sides. Hundreds of anchoring so far and not one digit lost.

 

[John100156]

As you need to lay out 4x depth in chain, I could never see the logic of starting any marking at anything les than 10m. So I mark them like the colour of snooker balls:

Red at 10m
Yellow at 15m
Green at 20m
Blue at 25m (couldn't find a brown marker and blue is 5....)
Multi-colour at 30m
All out for anything more...

Actually, they all start when the hook hits the waterline.....!

 

[chriss999]

We use a mark every 5m, 1 at 5m, 2 at 10m etc.

If we are anchoring in 3m, we pay out to 3 marks. Anchoring in 6m, we pay out to 6 marks.

There's nothing to remember.

Richard

For many many years short pieces of cord with knots has worked very well. 1 knot 5m, 5 knots 25m, 30m 2 pieces string so 40m 2 pieces, 1 with 2 knots etc. Works just fine in the dark solo, fell the knots with your fingers.

These two suggestions seem to work nicely together.
Plus ‘write it down’.

I‘ll review my system this winter, I think.

 

[John100156]

As you need to lay out 4x depth in chain, I could never see the logic of starting any marking at anything les than 10m. So I mark them like the colour of snooker balls:

Red at 10m
Yellow at 15m
Green at 20m
Blue at 25m (couldn't find a brown marker and blue is 5....)
Multi-colour at 30m
All out for anything more...

Actually, they all start when the hook hits the waterline.....!

Then repeat colour coding for next multiples... to 80

 

[Poignard]

I have trouble remembering the order of colours. I use short lengths of thin codline knotted tghrough the links. One long for each 10 metres and a short for the 5 metres in between. So two longs and a short, 25 metres. 3 lomgs, 30 metres etc. That way none of us have to remember a sequence.

Codline is easy on the hands (unlike cable ties), passes over the gypsy well and you can feel them in the dark. Also very durable - they've been in position 11 years now.

An excellent idea, although I find markings at 10m intervals suits me.

The Pardeys had something similar except they used soft narrow webbing and they started marking from each end so that if you had, say, 60m of chain you would never have more than 3 cords together.

 

[John100156]

But surely its easier just to use press-in colour markers on chain, I use 5 markers for each marking, you cant miss them, you could use:

Red-10
Yellow-20
Green-30
Blue-40

Red-50
Yellow-60
Green-70
Blue-80

 

[smithy]

I like to keep it simple, yellow paint, one band for 10m, two for 20m and so on. You can easily estimate 5m. I've only got 50m of chain though.

 

[coopec]

There are almost as many colour systems as there are yachts! We use red for 10 metres, yellow for five. Red tie-wraps according to the length, i.e. 40 metres = 4 ties.

One caution on the bitter end attachment. If you are ever unfortunate enough to run the whole lot out accidentally you will not be able to recover it easily if the rope extends out past the windlass. So keep it short, inside the locker.

Yes, I quickly became aware there are many systems after reading your posts.

One system that appeals to me Rub Your Body With Orange (starting O at 40M). I'll use cable ties in two consecutive links and maybe plaster the links from 79M - 80 M with red paint.

The bitter end will only be half a meter (at the most) and be multi-strands of cord

One last thing: Would it be worth while putting an anchor chain wash on the "To Do list" to wash the chain as it came aboard?

Thanks for your advice

 

[[163233]]

As you need to lay out 4x depth in chain, I could never see the logic of starting any marking at anything les than 10m.

It's useful to have a 5m mark as you know the anchor should be up by then.... Unless it's really shallow....

 

[Neeves]

We don't need to remember the code for the marks on the chain, its written in big letters in the bow locker lid/hatch. This means if someone new to the yacht is operating the windlass they know what the codings mean. There are as many combinations of coding as you want (even more than choice of anchor ) - go with what you think is simplest.

We paint every other metre for the first five metres - when you retrieve you know when the anchor will arrive at the bow roller. We have the same at the bitter end - so you know when the end is nigh.

Marking every other metre also means that you when your anchor is completely buried you know where the anchor is - as you can count the marks buried (or not) in/on the seabed. A buried anchor is a well set anchor.

We mark every 10 metres with paint, it rubs off the exterior of the link but is retained on the insides of the links. We go for belt and braces - and use ribbons (instead of cable ties). We mark with yellow paint - it is easier to see in the dark. Nothing last for ever - you do need to refresh. But if you use cable ties the very thin ones pass through a gypsy easily and do not cut your hands. Anyone operating a windlass and chain - should wear gloves! with full fingers.

The bitter end is attached with multiple lines of thin cord - the cords are accessible (so can be easily cut) but never reach the windlass. Not all, Maxwell, windlass have capstan - its an option - and as Vyv says would be a devil to transfer from chain through the gypsy to rope round the capstan. We have mast winches - a capstan would be redundant and would pose (in our installation) an unnecessary trip hazard. We can retrieved using the mast winches, dyneema line and a chain clutch - its slow - but possible.

Before you load the chain - through the windlass - consider putting a grating on the base of the locker to allow the chain to air and dry. Keep the drain hole accessible so that you can both see it and clear it - if necessary. Most drain holes are a bit small. If you intend having a mixed rode (even if only for an emergency) do not store the rope at the bottom of the locker, have a hook from which to hang it. Wet rope in the bottom of a locker will stay wet, wick its moisture to the chain and be a source of water for condensation.

You need a decent deck wash - mud will destroy galvanising. In addition - every time you wash the deck with fresh water - wash the chain - get rid of the salt. If you are leaving the yacht for any length of time try to leave the locker hatch/lid slightly open to allow airflow. Wet, salty chain will corrode more quickly than dry chain. If your new chain become coated with a white powder, that is white rust - its your galvanising dissolving away. You can stop this if the chain and locker is kept dry.

Know how: Ground Tackle

If you have access - there was an article in Cruising Helmsman on chain lockers within the last 12 months.

Along with your chain you need a decent snubber.

How to: Dealing with Snatch Loads in an Anchorage

Anchor Snubber Tips

The art of snubbing, in the nicest possible way - MySailing.com.au

This final article offers you a device to ensure the anchor arrives at the bow roller 'right way round' and obviates the need for a swivel, or manual intervention.

How to boomerang your anchor right back at you - MySailing.com.au

Finally if you wanted to downsize your chain, but retain the same strength, 2 rodes will be 'made' in the next few weeks, 130m each one of 6mm, replacing 8mm, for a 50' tri and one of 8mm, replacing 10mm, for a 43' Ovni. The rodes are complete, chain, connectors, boomerangs etc. One of the rodes is for one of Brisbane's most respected boat builders for the owner's own yacht. If you, or anyone, want more detail, PM me with a email address and I'll send you more detail.

Jonathan

 

[coopec]

We don't need to remember the code for the marks on the chain, its written in big letters in the bow locker lid/hatch. This means if someone new to the yacht is operating the windlass they know what the codings mean. There are as many combinations of coding as you want (even more than choice of anchor ) - go with what you think is simplest.

We paint every other metre for the first five metres - when you retrieve you know when the anchor will arrive at the bow roller. We have the same at the bitter end - so you know when the end is nigh.

Marking every other metre also means that you when your anchor is completely buried you know where the anchor is - as you can count the marks buried (or not) in/on the seabed. A buried anchor is a well set anchor.

We mark every 10 metres with paint, it rubs off the exterior of the link but is retained on the insides of the links. We go for belt and braces - and use ribbons (instead of cable ties). We mark with yellow paint - it is easier to see in the dark. Nothing last for ever - you do need to refresh. But if you use cable ties the very thin ones pass through a gypsy easily and do not cut your hands. Anyone operating a windlass and chain - should wear gloves! with full fingers.

The bitter end is attached with multiple lines of thin cord - the cords are accessible (so can be easily cut) but never reach the windlass. Not all, Maxwell, windlass have capstan - its an option - and as Vyv says would be a devil to transfer from chain through the gypsy to rope round the capstan. We have mast winches - a capstan would be redundant and would pose (in our installation) an unnecessary trip hazard. We can retrieved using the mast winches, dyneema line and a chain clutch - its slow - but possible.

Before you load the chain - through the windlass - consider putting a grating on the base of the locker to allow the chain to air and dry. Keep the drain hole accessible so that you can both see it and clear it - if necessary. Most drain holes are a bit small. If you intend having a mixed rode (even if only for an emergency) do not store the rope at the bottom of the locker, have a hook from which to hang it. Wet rope in the bottom of a locker will stay wet, wick its moisture to the chain and be a source of water for condensation.

You need a decent deck wash - mud will destroy galvanising. In addition - every time you wash the deck with fresh water - wash the chain - get rid of the salt. If you are leaving the yacht for any length of time try to leave the locker hatch/lid slightly open to allow airflow. Wet, salty chain will corrode more quickly than dry chain. If your new chain become coated with a white powder, that is white rust - its your galvanising dissolving away. You can stop this if the chain and locker is kept dry.

Know how: Ground Tackle

If you have access - there was an article in Cruising Helmsman on chain lockers within the last 12 months.

Along with your chain you need a decent snubber.

How to: Dealing with Snatch Loads in an Anchorage

Anchor Snubber Tips

The art of snubbing, in the nicest possible way - MySailing.com.au

This final article offers you a device to ensure the anchor arrives at the bow roller 'right way round' and obviates the need for a swivel, or manual intervention.

How to boomerang your anchor right back at you - MySailing.com.au

Finally if you wanted to downsize your chain, but retain the same strength, 2 rodes will be 'made' in the next few weeks, 130m each one of 6mm, replacing 8mm, for a 50' tri and one of 8mm, replacing 10mm, for a 43' Ovni. The rodes are complete, chain, connectors, boomerangs etc. One of the rodes is for one of Brisbane's most respected boat builders for the owner's own yacht. If you, or anyone, want more detail, PM me with a email address and I'll send you more detail.

Jonathan

Thanks for that Jonathan

There's a lot of reading there but I will look at the references later this evening

I drain the chain locker into the bilge as the locker is below the WL. (Before anyone knocks that Hallberg Rassy does that too). When I installed the in-line blower in the toilet I put the outlet into the chain locker so there is a fair it of ventilation there

 

[Neeves]

Cooipec,

If you drain into the bilges

You really need a powerful deck wash, I cannot quantify the comment - but I know ours is insufficiently powerful and takes an inordinate length of time to clean sticky mud. Sticky mud is the killer as it tends to be fine, slimy even and cloying. Many such muds are anaerobic and smell (rotten eggs) and they are the last thing you want in the bilges. These are the same muds you tend to find near oyster farms ( and in old harbours, Newcastle, here, is notorious) and slow moving rivers, like many of Australia's east coast navigable rivers. They are also the last thing you want on the chain as the smell is sulphur containing that coverts to sulphuric acid and dissolves the gal (submerged steel work in old harbours does not last - even if well galvanised). I would not worry, within reason, too much about the power needed to produce a decently powerful water jet - as you will normally be running the engine when you use the windlass.

If you solicit views on the power needed to clean chain effectively - I will also be interested in the information. I would think members here located on the east coast of the UK might have ideas/comments.

If the chain is clean then draining to the bilges is not an issue - as its just seawater.

The other item to help clean the chain would be a brush designed to be a bigger version of a bicycle chain or climbing rope brush. These are cylindrical, made in 2 half, some times with a hinge so they have bristles all round the interior. Even better if you could have one that actually connected to a salt water pump. I've never seen anything, yet, made and dedicated to chain cleaning. An option would be something 'similar' that fitted to a boat hook and could be positioned, when in use, below the water. There was a member here who made such a device himself, but I did not take note at the time - and now cannot find it (I have looked).

If you are only going to anchor in nice clean sand, much of Australia's Tasman Sea 'ocean' anchorages, or possibly cleaner coral sand (the Coral Sea) then a deck wash will seldom see much use - but you will miss much if you limit yourself to such anchorages - the Gordon River is worth the detour!

Jonathan

 

[coopec]

I have a Jabsco 777-9004 mechanical (V Belt pulley) 100 lpm which should be ideal but how do I drive it? Whatever I did it would have to be clutched.


THE CHAIN SCRUBBER

I made this for my husband, he gets so muddy when he brings up the anchor .
Found the design on another blog. Basically, it is three scrub brushes fixed in a triangular shape to capture and scrub the chain as it comes to the surface. We will also have a saltwater wash down.
The Chain Scrubber





Salt Water Wash System?

Salt Water Wash System?

 

[Neeves]

The yellow one, made by the wife for her husband - no use to me - I need to design one for my wife

More seriously

The very things Coopec - the greenyellow one is the design I've seen for climbing ropes and bike chain. I had thought they would be too small - which they might be for those still devoted to 10mm and 12mm chain - but it might actually be the right size for my 21st century 6mm chain , I've never seen one 'in the flesh' I need to find one in a shop. Thanks.

Your pump sounds, seems the right size - fitting it - a different issue.

Jonathan

 

[GHA]

These two suggestions seem to work nicely together.
Plus ‘write it down’.

I‘ll review my system this winter, I think.

Though chain catinary doesn't behave the same in deep water as it does in shallow water so a simple ratio might not be the best rule of thumb to follow. (Ducking for cover..... )
(something like 15m +3 x depth follows the force/scope curve better depending on conditions expected & chain size if there's room
Equal force scope)

 

[Catalina36]

Cooipec,

If you drain into the bilges

You really need a powerful deck wash, I cannot quantify the comment - but I know ours is insufficiently powerful and takes an inordinate length of time to clean sticky mud. Sticky mud is the killer as it tends to be fine, slimy even and cloying. Many such muds are anaerobic and smell (rotten eggs) and they are the last thing you want in the bilges. These are the same muds you tend to find near oyster farms ( and in old harbours, Newcastle, here, is notorious) and slow moving rivers, like many of Australia's east coast navigable rivers. They are also the last thing you want on the chain as the smell is sulphur containing that coverts to sulphuric acid and dissolves the gal (submerged steel work in old harbours does not last - even if well galvanised). I would not worry, within reason, too much about the power needed to produce a decently powerful water jet - as you will normally be running the engine when you use the windlass.

If you solicit views on the power needed to clean chain effectively - I will also be interested in the information. I would think members here located on the east coast of the UK might have ideas/comments.

If the chain is clean then draining to the bilges is not an issue - as its just seawater.

The other item to help clean the chain would be a brush designed to be a bigger version of a bicycle chain or climbing rope brush. These are cylindrical, made in 2 half, some times with a hinge so they have bristles all round the interior. Even better if you could have one that actually connected to a salt water pump. I've never seen anything, yet, made and dedicated to chain cleaning. An option would be something 'similar' that fitted to a boat hook and could be positioned, when in use, below the water. There was a member here who made such a device himself, but I did not take note at the time - and now cannot find it (I have looked).

If you are only going to anchor in nice clean sand, much of Australia's Tasman Sea 'ocean' anchorages, or possibly cleaner coral sand (the Coral Sea) then a deck wash will seldom see much use - but you will miss much if you limit yourself to such anchorages - the Gordon River is worth the detour!

Jonathan

I fitted a high pressure wash pump, a Shurflow I think, which gives a very powerful jet, adequate for any mud. It has both seawater and fresh water supply, the seawater via a T from the hose on WC inlet seacock and the fresh water from a T from the focsle water tank. A switchover valve lives under the focsle between the log impeller and the sounder. The stickiest mud can be blasted off as the anchor hangs down from the stemhead, then hoist it aboard, switch to fresh water and rinse the anchor, chain, windlass and rope rode to get rid of the salt. A spray rather than jet can be obtained with a different squeeze on the trigger.
Edit, the chain locker has a drain out of the boat, not into the bilge.