Markings on anchor chain.

One last thing: Would it be worth while putting an anchor chain wash on the "To Do list" to wash the chain as it came aboard?

I suspect that people sailing on UK east coast would have different opinions from mine in Greece. I cannot remember a time when the chain came up muddy, except possibly the last couple of metres occasionally. The anchor will sometimes have some mud trapped in its concave flukes but motoring for a minute with the anchor immersed soon clears it. So for me a chain wash would be unjustifiable.
 
I suspect that people sailing on UK east coast would have different opinions from mine in Greece. I cannot remember a time when the chain came up muddy, except possibly the last couple of metres occasionally. The anchor will sometimes have some mud trapped in its concave flukes but motoring for a minute with the anchor immersed soon clears it. So for me a chain wash would be unjustifiable.

Yes, I been thinking a lot about the type of sailing the yacht will do and it is not gunkholing
I'll put it on the list of Things to do but at this stage It would not be a priority.

Thanks
 
We use the Osculati chain markers - been in the chain now for 5 years and not lost one. They came in packets of 20, and we bought 5 colours. Sequence is Red, Yellow, Blue, White, Green at 10m intervals (10 links marked). We then mark 5m, 15m, 25m etc with the remaining markers, so 15m is 5 red markers and 5 yellow markers. Make sure that the markers are seated properly in the chain, and they are pretty easy to see.
 
Yes, I been thinking a lot about the type of sailing the yacht will do and it is not gunkholing
I'll put it on the list of Things to do but at this stage It would not be a priority.

Thanks


For chain and deck wash I fitted a gardena hose connector and a ball valve on the foredeck so I can simply connect a hose and nozzle to was wherever there is any mud on the foredeck.

I also have a chain counter in my wheel house so I can see how much chain is deployed at any time

AutoAnchor 150
 
I will be putting the anchor chain into the anchor locker for the first time. Before doing so I want to paint certain links so I know how much I've played out etc. I've seen several systems but they seem to vary.

I think I like RED, YELLOW, BLUE, WHITE, ORANGE, Is there a more universal system for color markings?

I use these plastic thingies which press into the chain - slightly to my surprise they have stayed in place for six years now. My system is single reds at 5m, 15m, 25m, double reds at 10m, 20m, 30m and single whites on the other metres from 6 to 19. I never put out less than 5m and above 20m I am not fiddling about with individual metres.

I did think fo something more sophisticated as you outline, but in practice I have found it easy to keep track of how many double reds have gone out.
 
You really need a powerful deck wash, I cannot quantify the comment - but I know ours is insufficiently powerful and takes an inordinate length of time to clean sticky mud.
If my chain comes up muddy I pile it on deck and pour buckets of water over it until the runoff is clean. Simple and effective.
 
If my chain comes up muddy I pile it on deck and pour buckets of water over it until the runoff is clean. Simple and effective.
'

You are more accomplished than I am.

My singlehanded departures from anchorages are often fraught affairs with me trying to get the anchor over the bow without damaging the hull or my fingers, trying to avoid running into other craft, and keeping off the rocks. :rolleyes:
 
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I use these plastic thingies which press into the chain - slightly to my surprise they have stayed in place for six years now. My system is single reds at 5m, 15m, 25m, double reds at 10m, 20m, 30m and single whites on the other metres from 6 to 19. I never put out less than 5m and above 20m I am not fiddling about with individual metres.

I did think fo something more sophisticated as you outline, but in practice I have found it easy to keep track of how many double reds have gone out.

Just looked at them on eBay and they are only about $A18. I'll see how I go with the ties before I get too sophisticated.
Thanks
 
Glad I read this thread. I knew I had a system but couldn't remember what I based it on. Snooker ball values. Result. Most of my anchoring this year in Chichester harbour shallows has not needed more than 15m (red blue) for lunch, and then vacant bouys in quieter places overnight.
 
'You are more accomplished than I am.

I doubt it, and wasn't trying to make that implication.

My singlehanded departures from anchorages are often fraught affairs with me trying to get the anchor over the bow without damaging the hull or my fingers, trying to avoid running into other craft, and keeping off the rocks. :rolleyes:

Me too. The phase "one-armed paper hanger" springs to mind. I leave the chain lying on the foredeck until I'm on my way and things have calmed down. Then with the tillerpilot connected I go back to the foredeck and either feed it straight down to the chain locker or swill it down first.
 
Me too. The phase "one-armed paper hanger" springs to mind. I leave the chain lying on the foredeck until I'm on my way and things have calmed down. Then with the tillerpilot connected I go back to the foredeck and either feed it straight down to the chain locker or swill it down first.
My other memory fail is the number of times I find the chain left on the foredeck when I come to re-anchor....remarkably static stuff fortunately......don't use the tiller pilot often and my other half clearly keeps me entertained in the cockpit:)
 
My other memory fail is the number of times I find the chain left on the foredeck when I come to re-anchor....remarkably static stuff fortunately......don't use the tiller pilot often and my other half clearly keeps me entertained in the cockpit:)
Friends of mine who shall be nameless were puzzled that their progress was slow on a trip across Biscay until one of them went forward and found that the unsecured anchor had jumped off the roller and plunged downwards taking all 100m of chain with it. I never did get told how no-one heard this racket but I suspect that inebriation may have played a part. Getting it back up without a windlass kept them occupied for a while.
 
I use simplest system that requires no memory. I use both cable ties and the Osculati inserts. So orange for 10m and yellow for 5m. So two orange is 20m. Two orange and a yellow is 25, The cable ties do come off so I do not put them all on a single link. In other words, at 40m I have 4 orange ties on four adjacent links. So if one of the middle ones drop off, there will be a gap to make it obvious. No help at all if one or other end one drops off.

As for deck washes.......... I fitted one last year. Brilliant! And yes I am in Greece

TudorSailor
 
My other memory fail is the number of times I find the chain left on the foredeck when I come to re-anchor....remarkably static stuff fortunately......don't use the tiller pilot often and my other half clearly keeps me entertained in the cockpit:)

Sometimes - short hop, nice weather - I just leave it there on purpose. Luckily I have fairly high bulwarks so it tends to stay more-or-less put.

Friends of mine who shall be nameless were puzzled that their progress was slow on a trip across Biscay until one of them went forward and found that the unsecured anchor had jumped off the roller and plunged downwards taking all 100m of chain with it.

As all fans of "The Art of Coarse Sailing" will remember, the correct term for that is "hanging Judas".
 
My thought is that many people mark the chain too frequently, as though scope was not an estimation in the first place. Fewer marks means the system can be simpler.

  • Some like to mark when the anchor is nearly aboard, but I've never felt the need. I can see it.
  • Wide mark some distantance before any rope-to-chain transition. Can avoid having the splice go through the windlass when not needed.
  • Wide mark before the end, to avoid coming up tight against the bitter end lashing or bringing the pendant up through the hawse pipe.
Other than those, 20 meters is plenty close. I mark every 50 feet. It's nothing to estimate in between marks, and this way you only need 4 marks in the first 200 feet.
 
My thought is that many people mark the chain too frequently, as though scope was not an estimation in the first place. Fewer marks means the system can be simpler.

  • Some like to mark when the anchor is nearly aboard, but I've never felt the need. I can see it.
  • Wide mark some distance before any rope-to-chain transition. Can avoid having the splice go through the windlass when not needed.
  • Wide mark before the end, to avoid coming up tight against the bitter end lashing or bringing the pendant up through the hawse pipe.
Other than those, 20 meters is plenty close. I mark every 50 feet. It's nothing to estimate in between marks, and this way you only need 4 marks in the first 200 feet. I guess I'm dumb, but I couldn't be bothered trying to remember some of these systems. I also dislike multiple colors, since they can be confused in dim light.
 
How do people mark the rope part?

I find that I tend to anchor in 5 to 7m so will need mostly 20 to 30m out with 30m of chain that's basically all of it regardless.. Deeper water would require the rope, but that's not marked...

Edit, just realised I've been in the med too long.. :)
 
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Sometimes - short hop, nice weather - I just leave it there on purpose. Luckily I have fairly high bulwarks so it tends to stay more-or-less put.



As all fans of "The Art of Coarse Sailing" will remember, the correct term for that is "hanging Judas".
As all fans of "The Art of Coarse Sailing" will remember, the correct term for that is "hanging Judas".

I did strike me that it brought a new meaning to the term "sea anchor" and set me wondering if anyone had ever used that technique in the absence of a parachute or drogue. Probably plenty have, I've just not heard of it.
 
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