Maplin 100A Circuit Breaker

MainlySteam

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Re: Stu & Vic, What do you use?

I guess I am conditioned by two matters:

- one is I expect good wiring practices (what were the cables doing in a position where engine movement could chafe them, especially with an engine which I assume cannot have been a DC isolated one).

- the other is that I regard fusing the cranking battery as something like putting a weak link in ones anchor chain. Compared with the almost negligible risk in a correctly wired boat of an event where the fuse will protect, the fuse is something one may live to regret one day unless you have alternative standby cranking battery capacity (which by the way, ABYC requires). A fuse is unlikely to protect against general arcing type problems which cause probably 99.9% of fires associated with cranking circuits, but its installation diminishes the reliability of the cranking circuit which introduces another safety matter.

In case of any misunderstanding, I am not against protection. As an example, in a similar case (using the cranking battery and a converted cranking motor) we have a breaker in our windlass supply, however the duty means that the breaker can be rated low as nuisance breaks are just that, a nuisance, and the cable runs are long and so more exposed to damage. But even with a low rating (150 amps in our case) that protection would not, in my view, protect against most risks in the circuit that may lead to fire (importantly it does protect the windlass drive from overload which is not an issue when cranking an engine however).

In the end it is a matter of opinion but people should make their own minds up on it by properly considering what the real risks are (both the electrical safety ones without, and operational safety ones with) and if their concern is the quality of their wiring installation then consider that the fuse will not protect against most arcing events that poor cabling may lead to. One should also consider that if protecting, any method which introduces more terminations in the cabling (ie if a direct battery post fitting is not used) is adding to the risk of arcing type events.

Thanks for the feedback on the case you recounted, and which will be squirreled away among the cases to be remembered.

John







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MainlySteam

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Re: Stu & Vic, What do you use?

I would be interested in and value if people could tell me if they always isolate their cranking battery whenever the engine is not actually running.

In my view, that is probably the most important thing one can do to lower the risk of fire from cranking circuits, but when I have asked the question of others, I find that most do not do it.

Thanks

John

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andyball

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Re: Stu & Vic, What do you use?

isolate their cranking battery whenever the engine is not actually running?

Always on our previous boat, & so far on the new one too.


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johna

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Re: Stu & Vic, What do you use?

<always isolate their cranking battery whenever the engine is not actually running.>

From the Domestic system yes (split charge relay)

From the engine no. Engine is always available while sailing.


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paulrossall

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Re: MainlySteam

The cranking battery is not connected to the domestic circuit and is always left on until I moor up for the night. I connect the domestic circuit up to the cranking one when the engine is running to charge the domestic battery. I suppose I should fit a split charge relay but it is another gadget and I am short of space around my batteries/electrical switches so I probably won't.
I did have one 100amp and one 110amp leisure batteries and designated one for starting. I am now fitting a 60amp starting battery and linking the 2 leisure batteries for use as domestics because I fitted an Eberspacher last year and want to make sure I have enough power. My 2GM20 is only 636cc. and has hand start, which I have used to check I can do but have never had to use it in emergency.
Paul

" there is nothing-absolutely nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats".
 

paulrossall

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My conclusion/decision

Thanks to all who have posted.
Given I am changing system so I have 60amp cranking battery and 2 domestics linked of 100amp and 110amp I have decided not to fuse the cranking battery. I will fit 1 of the Maplin 12 volt (think back of packet says they will take up to 32volt) circuit brealers to each of the domestic batteries. I am very confident that my battery wiring is very well secured and multistrand cable to the correct spec re. size and oilproof etc.
My cranking motor is rated at 1.0kW. Dividing 1000watts by 12 volts gives 83amp current. I understand motor will take more than that initially. If cranking battery goes down I recon by using both domestic batteries together I should be able to start engine without blowing the two 100amp circuit breakers....we will see. I want bircuit breakers on the domestics because the cable runs are longer and there is more to go wrong.
Many thanks.
Paul

<hr width=100% size=1>" there is nothing-absolutely nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats".
 
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