Making the cockpit look like new... on a budget...

farmerdan79

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With impending redundancy rapidly approaching, it looks like I'll finally have some time :D to spruce up the once white GRP in the cockpit of our '94 Westerly Merlin, which is now looking grubby and dirty. Trouble is with the financial restraints :( that my current situation places me in, I was wondering if anyone can suggest the best way to get a good finish on a budget?

Thanks in advance...
 

sarabande

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have you read the threads on oxalic acid ?

Rhubarb leaves soaked in hot water for 24 hours, then add a lump of sculpturing/modelling clay makes a soggy cheap mixture ready to clean GRP. Do wear long plastic gloves though.
 

lw395

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2 pack polyurethane paint.
Nothing else is tough enough IMHO.
Try the foam 'Jenny Brushes'.
Be accurate with the mixing, I use syringes.
Then you can mix a small amount and work on your technique.
You might find foam roller on, lay off with Jenny Brush is good, but it's a personal thing.
 
D

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This spring I scrubbed by cockpit with Ciff cream cleaner and washed away with fresh water. It cleaned up very well. With Ciff on a dry cloth it could be used to polish out stubborn marks. The trick is not to use a dripping wet cloth but to buff with the Ciff on a dry or well wrung out cloth. From time to time wash away the Ciff, dry off with a paper towel and continue as before. It is important to wash away with fresh water as Ciff can leave a powder residue when dry. My boy and I did each side of the hull with Ciff when she was out the water and it looked good when we were finished. You will not get a shine, but you will end up with clean GRP. It doesn't get much cheaper with Ciff, kitchen roll, rags, fresh water and elbow grease.
 

single

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Borrow,buy or hire a decent electric buffer. Use a fine cutting compound and a good polish then wax.Mine came up like new.
 

mihtjel

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I've been spending some time this spring restoring a sailing school boat's GRP. A rubbing compound, some 3M Finesse-It II, and some Collinite 885, and it really shines. There are still some scratches left, either too deep for the compound, or tiny ones left by the polish, but they are a lot cleaner and nicer looking, with no dirt in them.

It's hard work doing it by hand, though - in particular the first step.

I think the usual advice is to try the least aggressive method you can first, and see if that's enough to get a shine - and then move up the scale.
 

Spi D

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Oxalic acid is inexpensive (< £5 /kg on eBay) and easy to use on light/white GRP. 1 kg will make approx. one liter.
Leave it on for some 20 minutes, reapply wet-in-wet every 5-10 minutes and rinse off. Repeat if needed, then consider rub/sand. The acid leaves a rather 'dry' surface you should finalize with polish/wax.

If you buy (any) marine branded ready-mix that contains oxalic acid, forget 'inexpensive'!

Note that oxalic acid will bleach as opposed to rubbing or sanding being a mechanical process.
 

Fantasie 19

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I have never understood why anyone would consider painting GRP. Unless full of holes, it can always be cut back to a good finish.

+1!

It's a pain in the 'arris to get off when you eventually decide you made a mistake & it looks carp if you don't get a good finish... if the gelcoat is knackered put a new coat on - guy down my club is having his entire hull done.....
 

Elessar

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With impending redundancy rapidly approaching, it looks like I'll finally have some time :D to spruce up the once white GRP in the cockpit of our '94 Westerly Merlin, which is now looking grubby and dirty. Trouble is with the financial restraints :( that my current situation places me in, I was wondering if anyone can suggest the best way to get a good finish on a budget?

Thanks in advance...

My boat had been stood for 5 years in the med when I bought her. She was as matt as matt can be. She came up like new.

Sand then polish. This will get you close up and personal so you can put some gelcoat in any dinks. Sand those bits, polish then wax.

CIf is a cheap polish but is very course and will leave it Matt and so will attract dirt and not look great.

Modern polishes break down if you work them with a machine, but not if you work them by hand. This means they are quite course when you start and get finer and finer as they break down to leave it super shiny.

Never found a decent polisher that runs off 12v. The more expensive ones are lighter but for occasional use you can live with weight by taking breaks.

If you're doing it by hand you will need a course and fine polish.

And polish is an abrasive, halfords and the like confuse this. Polish doesn't leave a protective coating, do this last.
 

theoldsalt

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and it will smell all nice and lemony. :D



.

I suggest not using the colured Cif on white gelcoat it can discolour the gelcoat as it is porous and absorbs the pigment. Much better to use the white. Similarly using white Cif on colured gelcoat may leave white marks. Buffing after will remove the discolouration but then if you do that you don't need the Cif in the first place.

It's difficult to give specific advise to the OP as he doesn't specify what type of damage needs rectifying. If just dirty then a simple clean and polish as already suggested.
 
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farmerdan79

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Thanks all,

As this is the first time we will be giving her a clean up (in our ownership) I think I will be as gentle as possible first, then re-do with a more aggressive approach after, if required.
 

lw395

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I agree, 1000 grit, 2000 grit and then a decent polishing compound will recover GRP.

Yoda

If it's only in need of polishing, I agree.
But I was assuming it was beyond that.
For instance lots of off-colour repairs, gelcoat worn through etc etc.
 
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