Making a tiller pilot 'below tiller' mount. Advice on bending stainless steel.

fredrussell

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I need one of these: http://www.waveinn.com/nautical-fis...bKooUH8Xivq_SL7MF1jJqKOYcZV_FXZyHQaAlOk8P8HAQ

As I also need to shell out £50 or so on a push rod extension, I'm reluctant to spend the same again on what is essentially a piece of stainless with two bends in.

So I'm thinking I'll buy a length of, say, 6mm x 30mm stainless for pennies and put a couple of bends in it myself using a vice. Will this weaken the steel a great deal?

Its for a ST1000+. The tiller is too high. I could also make the mount from a nice piece of hardwood, but putting two bends in a piece of stainless would be a bit quicker me thinks.
 

MoodySabre

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That doesn't look like a Raymarine one. Mine is flat bar nicely rounded at the end. Making your own should be easy and buy a tiller pin from Raymarine. Shouldn't think a couple of gentle bends will weaken it to any extent that will compromise it.
 

fredrussell

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Thanks for that, have bought a piece of 316 stainless bar for £6 posted. At that price its got to be worth a go.
 

doug748

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Mine is alloy, probably about 4mm. It works ok, I think it was the original fitment. Your stainless will be fine.

Make yourself a card template first to get the angles right.
 

Spyro

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If you don't want to buy a tiller extn could you fit a mounting like this one, Do away with an under tiller fitting at the same time.

20150627_140113_zpsjmfdudfr.jpg
 

William_H

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Certainly just put it ina vice and bash it. No real concerns about metal fatigue for this degree of bending. good luck olewill
 

fredrussell

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Thanks all, will proceed.

Cheers for the pic Spyro, that part was mentioned in my Raymarine manual - I'll see if it works out cheaper than the two push-rod extension pieces I need to bridge the gap.
 

MM5AHO

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The pictured piece looks to me like galvanized steel rather than stainless. See the slight raised nodules in several places and the "tide marks" across the section typical of galvanized.
Better to use stainless.
 

fredrussell

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Crikey, I would hope it wasn't galv at that price. Much as I'm keen to put Mr Raymarine's kids through school, I would expect a bare minimum of quality for my outlay.

I'll see how it goes with the stainless bar I've ordered first before commissioning an acetal one, but I really appreciate the offer.
 
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30boat

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What a rip off. A short length of stainless a vice and a lump hammer and you can make one . Stailnless steel is shaped cold to make fittings so no problem there as long as you don't bend it back and forth. Use jaw protectors on the vice and hit the bar with a lead hammer or use a pice of wood to protect the metal.
 

ChrisRayner

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Drilling stainless steel is not for the faint-hearted. Most grades work harden. You can blunt a lot at drills if you're not aggressive enough, and break some more if you're too gentle. I suggest the use of a drill press.
 

Fantasie 19

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Drilling stainless steel is not for the faint-hearted. Most grades work harden. You can blunt a lot at drills if you're not aggressive enough, and break some more if you're too gentle. I suggest the use of a drill press.

Given the forces involved, you could probably use aluminium bar rather than stainless??
 

fredrussell

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colhel and Tam Lin - will pm you both when I get home. Many thanks to you both in advance.
 
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