Mahogany Wood Stain

[Roach1948]

As International have stopped their Interstain product, I would like to know what other's have used to stain mahogany if you are going to be using a two-pack varnish ontop.

The products by Sikkens seem to be oil based, and not sure whether it would be wise to use them. Any other suggestions?

 

[Paglesham]

The rule is, never stain the wood, stain the finish. If you stain mahogany it'll kill the grain, but if you first put some finish on it, like a sanding sealer, then a coat of stain , then varnish, you'll have a wonderful deep colour and lustre. I've seen it done right through at Freebody's on the Thames. And that was on a Riva. Riva insist on the practice and so do Epiphanes, Riva's preferred finish. If you know a better finish than a Riva, I'd like to see it!
Just to prove it I have a REAL mahogany dining table which my unknowing friend scraped back to wood and then stained. It looks as dead as a dodo. I say real, because I know my grandfather always used Honduras mahogany. Most available in the last 20 odd years is West African Red hardwood, which is not quite as red or rich or figured. What Grandad always described as "stripey bloody sapele" or "railway wood"!
Always use spirit based stains. They stick better and smell great.
Martin

 

[oldfrank]

Sorry -don't agree. What Peter Freebody does on all new wood is hardly comparable to a boat with all sorts of different mahoganies let in to existing work. And I wouldn't use sanding sealer either - but then it's probably a good job were all different. OF

 

[Paglesham]

Who said it was all new wood? He strips back to whatever's there, then repairs, puts on a coat of finish (I only said LIKE sanding sealer) then a coat of stain, then continues with the finishes, whatever he may judge to be right for the boat in hand. What's not to agree with? If it worth doing it's worth doing right.
The only reason we need to stain "mahogany" these days is because it isn't real mahogany and lacks any worthwile colour.
Even real mahogany only goes that lovely colour with a combination of age and coats of varnish. My interior on my Victorian cutter was a far richer colour than the deck light casings, because it was French Polished, not varnished.
And, of course, it didn't see the weather.
Having said that the outside wood was still a lovely colour without any stain because it wasn't West African redwood.
Martin

 

[Roach1948]

I am looking for a stain as I was half-way through doing the backrests and ran out of Interstain - which was truly a great product. The solid panelling is stained/varnished looking great, but the reason I am looking for the same/similar stain is to match the framework surround (which i'm afraid will be mostly veneered ply) and the new table that I am making. I would like to have 2 pack poly on the tabletop so I can out hot items on it without damage - hence needing a stain that can support 2-pack.

I would add that there is another good reason to stain mahogany - and that is that it is not colour stable wood; and I am talking Honduran and Brazilian Flame.

 

[Paglesham]

Roach, no wood is colour stable, but with a good varnish/finish it has a good chance. If it's Honduran, you don't need to stain it as its own colour will come up beautifully under a good few coats of finish. Inside you can start with sanding sealer (cellulose), stain that to match your existing wood, then varnish that. Two-pack will be fine over a spirit stain. The only two-pack I know about is WEST, but that needs a varnish on top, because it isn't UV proof.
I have no experience of Interstain as I have found all the International products I've tried to be overpriced and underperforming. I use a man who actually makes his own paint for me and cannot recommend him highly enough. Try Tra-Mar Coatings on 01543 254544 or mobile 07967 454472.
Mention Martin when you call him.
For mixing and matching stains, Liberon make some excellent products which are all intermiscible.
My experience, BTW, is on furniture, full size and model, boats, full size and model and particularly, Riva models.
And my grandfather was a top cabinet maker who taught my father and me about mahoganies.
Good luck with the project.
Martin

 

[Captlen1]

I would like to inform you about 2 part urthanes that work well as 2 part topcoats In the US we have been using US Paints Awl brite which is a UV protectant Clear Urthanes. The product that gives the color is Awl spar varnish which is excellent spar varnish, After the product drys the hard varnish is topcoated with the clear urthanes. There are other 2 part varnishes which act like a urthanes. Also this is a base that we use to get a great finish Look up System 3 epoxys they make a clear coat epoxy that seals the wood then we varnish over the system 3 clear coat epoxy if you stain, stain over epoxy and wipe off excess and look for blotches rewipe and I polish it with rag. We then varnish 3 coats of spar varnish and seal with 10-12 coats of clear urthane at this point we will buff with very find compound to remove dust and polished finished the result is a perfect finish we have maintained this boat for 8 years and the finish is still in excelent condition . Our bigest problem with sealer and varnish was the moisture in the wood would lift the varnish well I dont know if I have ever seen a compleatly sealed boat so this is why we use a epoxy sealer on the varnished surface
On the old Chris Crafts we would strip to wood then use an acrylic Sealer Like Zspar Stains and sealers This product would make any piece of mahognay a concistant color for staining. Also note systen 3 epoxy will not blush and turn white We have had problems with West systems epoxy do not use this product if you are going to varnish over it. in time the West System will turn white and the finish will have to be stripped. Great luck with matching the stains thats an art in its self.