vic008
Well-Known Member
Work with machinists, was wondering would it be possible to make your own cones for the older Norseman terminals, that are not available now.(All on holiday now of course)
Machining cones
- Thread starter vic008
- Start date
Nicholas123
N/A
You could probably get the angles right but then you have got to cut slots in the side if I understand them correctly.They are a collet that clamps down on the cable if I understand them correctly & so would have to be machined pretty accurately.Are you a turner/miller/fitter? If not I would not attempt them because if you don't get them just right I can imagine that they would not clamp the cable properly & that could end in disaster.
PS:Are they just a two bit thing,a turned bar cut in half? Still requires good accuracy & I would think requires a good turner/general fitter to get good accuracy & then of course there is the matter of selecting the right material?
PS:Are they just a two bit thing,a turned bar cut in half? Still requires good accuracy & I would think requires a good turner/general fitter to get good accuracy & then of course there is the matter of selecting the right material?
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Sneaky Pete
Well-Known Member
Is this the kind of thing you are writing about.
http://www.velasailingsupply.com/Norseman-Swageless-Terminals-s/2233.htm
http://www.velasailingsupply.com/Norseman-Swageless-Terminals-s/2233.htm
vic008
Well-Known Member
Yes, just been in touch and they say not available anymore. I have a used cone for a sample
PuffTheMagicDragon
Well-Known Member
I don't see the problem. Bore the blank. Glue it to a mandrel with Locktite and put in chuck. Turn both tapers at the same setting to maintain concentricity. Remove from chuck and set up for cutting the slot with a slitting saw. (Ideally on a milling but can also be done on a lathe). Heat mandrel to release the Loctite bond or open slightly with a screwdrver. I don't think that the width of the slot is that critical as long as the two cut ends do not meet when the terminal is fully tightened.
prof pat pending
Well-Known Member
Sounds like a complicated way to make a simple part
PuffTheMagicDragon
Well-Known Member
So your method is... ?
nimbusgb
Well-Known Member
Replace with a non norseman type?
prof pat pending
Well-Known Member
Put the bar in the chuck, turn both tapers, drill the hole, part it off to length.
One operation, no mandrel required
If you want to be clever, before driling the hole...
Grind a parting type tool, mount it in the tool holder on it's side, put the lathe on it's slowest speed to lock the spindle (don't turn it on) pass the tool along the length of the cone (small cuts) to shape the slot almost through. Finish it through with a junior hacksaw after you've parted it off
One operation, no mandrel required
If you want to be clever, before driling the hole...
Grind a parting type tool, mount it in the tool holder on it's side, put the lathe on it's slowest speed to lock the spindle (don't turn it on) pass the tool along the length of the cone (small cuts) to shape the slot almost through. Finish it through with a junior hacksaw after you've parted it off
PuffTheMagicDragon
Well-Known Member
Fair enough but for a relatively slender part such as this I prefer to have the outer end firmly supported; one reason for using the mandrel.
prof pat pending
Well-Known Member
That's why you drill the hole last, the forces involved in drilling a relativly small hole are much smaller than the turning operations
PuffTheMagicDragon
Well-Known Member
You were suggesting shaping the slot before drilling the hole...
Still it's up to whatever the operator feels comfortable dong on what would only be a one-off (or perhaps a 'some-off') in a home workshop.
Still it's up to whatever the operator feels comfortable dong on what would only be a one-off (or perhaps a 'some-off') in a home workshop.
prof pat pending
Well-Known Member
I'd do everything before drilling the hole
But I'd stop the slot at a depth where there would be a small amount of material to be removed after the hole was drilled.
Ultimately, yes. If you're not comfortable with it stick with what you know, although it can be nice to learn something new from time to time
But I'd stop the slot at a depth where there would be a small amount of material to be removed after the hole was drilled.
Ultimately, yes. If you're not comfortable with it stick with what you know, although it can be nice to learn something new from time to time
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Nicholas123
N/A
I think that would be sensible judging by what I have heard so far.
vic008
Well-Known Member
Please advise which this interchangeable part is please. Have spent all this time and you have a simple solution for me. Please share.
Norman_E
Well-Known Member
Sizes are critical, there were different cones for ordinary 1x19 wire and 1x19 dyform wire of the same diameters. If you are confident that you can measure the diameters accurately and turn the correct tapers then they are makeable. My method would be to start by making a fixture to hold the parts for drilling. this would be a steel bar bored to accept the long taper and fitted with a screw on cap to hold the collet blank securely. Critically this would be bored in the lathe's 4 jaw chuck and not removed from the chuck after boring it. I would then turn the outside diameters and correct tapers on all of the collets I needed to make, using the 3 jaw chuck. To drill the collets I would replace the 4 jaw on the lathe with the fixture still in it, and use it to drill the collets. After drilling the slot has to be cut using a slitting saw in the milling machine, this can be done provided the collet is gripped gently end on, in a chuck with blind jaws.
cliff
Well-Known Member
And that just proves you know SFA about machine work. The original sequence is how they would have been made originally. Drilling the hole last would lead to excessive drill breakages.I'd do everything before drilling the hole
prof pat pending
Well-Known Member
Odd that as I'm a time served machinist.
No turner I know would use 2 ops when he can do it in one, but perhaps it's just that I know some very good turners
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Norman_E
Well-Known Member
I am not sure that the original sequence is how it would be done commercially. I think the external diameters and tapers would be cut on a bar fed capstan lathe, quite possibly CNC automated. It is possible that the sequence would be to drill the hole first from a tailstock capstan, then the drill would withdraw to be replaced by a polished and lubricated rod that would act as a steady (or by a rotating steady). The long taper would be turned on the outer end of the bar from the lathe bed capstan, followed by the short taper being cut by plunge cutting with a form tool that would also part off the piece. After that the slitting operation would be performed with the part held in a purpose made fixture on a horizontal milling machine. I very much doubt that a commercial producer would go to the trouble of putting the part onto a mandrel with Loctite, then heating it to get it off again.
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PuffTheMagicDragon
Well-Known Member
Quite correct sequence for batch production. For a larger run I would even consider a carbide form tool for both tapers in one go, depending on the actual dimensions, of course.
What I had described in my first posting, using a mandrel and Loctite, was written for amateur production of a few items in a workshop with (assumed) limited tooling.
