Wansworth
Well-known member
Having viewed one boat I realized about an hour later Ihad missed some essential bits,any suggestions for a preliminary inspection of a 1978 grp French sailing boat with a diesel inboard,thanks
Looking to buy
- Thread starter Wansworth
- Start date
mrming
Well-known member
Headlining problems should be obvious if it has it. If there’s a swing keel wind the handle and see if the worm screw has been greased recently.
Condition of any interior wood as difficult to put right. Signs of any water ingress in the cabin.
If it’s a small Beneteau there’s probably no balsa core but it there is look for soft spots on the deck (or hull if cored).
Look for stress cracking in the gelcoat around areas like stanchion bases and rudder mounts (if transom hung).
Check age and condition of the engine, standing and running rigging, sails and electronics / electrics. Stick a multimeter on the battery if you have one. Check any lights / nav lights are working.
If you can (and if you care), check how fair the bottom is. If it’s a swing keel boat access to sand and antifoul is awkward. If it has an iron keel it will likely be rusty, not a big drama but can be difficult to keep it fair - again depends how much you care.
Worth checking the gooseneck for excessive wear. If it’s a Z Spars rig the castings are quite soft. Also check if the mast has any major dents as they could compromise it’s strength.
Inspect the rudder carefully to look for signs of the foam core being waterlogged. Any streaks of rust, areas where paint doesn’t adhere. Knock around on the rudder and listen for spots where it sounds obviously different.
Look for osmotic blisters in the gelcoat - they don’t generally suffer but if water has been sitting anywhere you might see some.
Condition of any interior wood as difficult to put right. Signs of any water ingress in the cabin.
If it’s a small Beneteau there’s probably no balsa core but it there is look for soft spots on the deck (or hull if cored).
Look for stress cracking in the gelcoat around areas like stanchion bases and rudder mounts (if transom hung).
Check age and condition of the engine, standing and running rigging, sails and electronics / electrics. Stick a multimeter on the battery if you have one. Check any lights / nav lights are working.
If you can (and if you care), check how fair the bottom is. If it’s a swing keel boat access to sand and antifoul is awkward. If it has an iron keel it will likely be rusty, not a big drama but can be difficult to keep it fair - again depends how much you care.
Worth checking the gooseneck for excessive wear. If it’s a Z Spars rig the castings are quite soft. Also check if the mast has any major dents as they could compromise it’s strength.
Inspect the rudder carefully to look for signs of the foam core being waterlogged. Any streaks of rust, areas where paint doesn’t adhere. Knock around on the rudder and listen for spots where it sounds obviously different.
Look for osmotic blisters in the gelcoat - they don’t generally suffer but if water has been sitting anywhere you might see some.
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Stemar
Well-known member
Look at the engine. Has it been cleaned recently? Yellow card - what did they need to clean off? Is it cold? Check the exhaust manifold and elbow; warm is another yellow flag unless there's a good reason. See it start from cold. If there are heater plugs, it should leap into life, if not, there may be a bit of churning on a cold day. The oil pressure light should go out after a second or two, any longer is a red flag. A bit of smoke when cold doesn't matter, but once warm is a red. How much water from the exhaust? How much there should be is a bit of a piece of string question, but more than just spitting.
Do all the instruments work? They're simple, but expensive to replace.
Manky/oily bilges are a big red flag. A stuffing box should let in a little water, but not much, other types of stern gland none at all. Oil and especially diesel leaks can create a stench that's hard to get rid of.
As long as the sticks are OK, tired rigging wouldn't put me off, but would need to be reflected in the price. The same if guard wires are plastic covered - they aren't to be trusted once they're a few years old.
Do all the instruments work? They're simple, but expensive to replace.
Manky/oily bilges are a big red flag. A stuffing box should let in a little water, but not much, other types of stern gland none at all. Oil and especially diesel leaks can create a stench that's hard to get rid of.
As long as the sticks are OK, tired rigging wouldn't put me off, but would need to be reflected in the price. The same if guard wires are plastic covered - they aren't to be trusted once they're a few years old.
Spanjaard
Active member
In addition:
_Ask for previous surveys. That may give you some indications of previous problems unresolved.
_Find out how long has the boat been out of the water orwhen it was last afloat.
-Check the join betewen the hull and the keell and look if requires corking
-Check batteries. Check the electric and electronics work. Check the lights. Check the radio.
-Fire up the coocker. Check that you got hot water.
-Check the sails, how many and estate of them. Have a look to the mainsail. Can it be reefed and are the reefing lines in the boom?
If you got access to other boats surveys it is worth having a look. These will give you an idea what to look for in more detail.
_Ask for previous surveys. That may give you some indications of previous problems unresolved.
_Find out how long has the boat been out of the water orwhen it was last afloat.
-Check the join betewen the hull and the keell and look if requires corking
-Check batteries. Check the electric and electronics work. Check the lights. Check the radio.
-Fire up the coocker. Check that you got hot water.
-Check the sails, how many and estate of them. Have a look to the mainsail. Can it be reefed and are the reefing lines in the boom?
If you got access to other boats surveys it is worth having a look. These will give you an idea what to look for in more detail.
capnsensible
Well-known member
Did you spread the sails to check their condition?
Anchor and chain / cable are important too.
Whenever I check a yacht, those two things and the engine are my priorities. If the donk fails, can you sail her. If the engine fails and there's no wind, can you drop the hook.
Key points for me. ?
Anchor and chain / cable are important too.
Whenever I check a yacht, those two things and the engine are my priorities. If the donk fails, can you sail her. If the engine fails and there's no wind, can you drop the hook.
Key points for me. ?
Wansworth
Well-known member
Have not got to hat stage yet but all good. Points.Owner has offered a trial sail in the riade Vivero.Thought I would do two visits as daylight is getting short.Firrst visit general look round and engine inspection and running.On that I ought to come to a decision which will be confired on second visit and trial sail
Wansworth
Well-known member
Would be great to have a knowledgeable mate to help ,maybe see if there is a yacht surveyor but I doubt it in Galicia much of an assessment is bases on ones opinion of the seller plus any paperwork about whatever has been done
capnsensible
Well-known member
I'm helping a friend right now with the process of buying a yacht. We got an engineer from a local varadero to give a condition report on the yacht as there are no surveyors here at all. This was confirmed as acceptable by the insurance company.
The boat hadn't been used for at least eighteen months. He did the initial engine checks and run. Later that day, with the prospective new owner, we repeated that.....knowing that prop fouling was inevitable. Then ran anchor windlass and spread the sails. Following morning at early o clock we moved the boat ten miles to the lift out yard. So other checks before going were VHF working and life jackets available. The three knot vmg passage gave plenty of time to look over loadsa other stuff!
Good luck with your potential new yacht. If the donk runs, the rest probably won't take as much time as you think it might!
?
Blueboatman
Well-known member
Waggle the tiller hard , see if the rudder bearings or tiller connection to the rudder stock are worn and rattly
Tap the deck with the handle end of a screwdriver , you’ll hear any soggy ( dull sound ) core bits
Look at the stanchion bases for gelcoat cracks
If you really are serious , start at the bow , describe in a note book the condition of the first stemhead bolt( is it burred, bludgeoned, bent , rust weeping ????) , move aft to the next screw or bolt , take as long as it takes …
By doing this level of detail you will more easily spot bigger problems like compressed cabin top under the mast foot or wrenched rigging screws and shagged out gooseneck and winches snd stern gear…
You will also have a reference when you go off after a couple of hours and have a coffee and a ponder ..
Tap the deck with the handle end of a screwdriver , you’ll hear any soggy ( dull sound ) core bits
Look at the stanchion bases for gelcoat cracks
If you really are serious , start at the bow , describe in a note book the condition of the first stemhead bolt( is it burred, bludgeoned, bent , rust weeping ????) , move aft to the next screw or bolt , take as long as it takes …
By doing this level of detail you will more easily spot bigger problems like compressed cabin top under the mast foot or wrenched rigging screws and shagged out gooseneck and winches snd stern gear…
You will also have a reference when you go off after a couple of hours and have a coffee and a ponder ..
Wansworth
Well-known member
Going Friday,boats afloat will try and be hard headed?
Wansworth
Well-known member
We are going as a family,wife and daughter as a first visit which I have informed the owner ,our basic endevour is to see if we like the boat if it has any obvious faults and to ask for the engine to be run from cold as advised,although it’s a sailing boat the engine is an important part and one which I am not very good at.My only observation will be the colour of the exhaust,if the water comes out nicely and the engine sounds like err a good engine
Gary Fox
N/A
If the engine starts quickly from cold, and doesn't smoke, that's Good.
But putting extra fenders and springs on, and running it in forward gear, at half to 3/4 ahead until everything is smoking hot, can also reveal expensive issues. Monitor the gauges, for temperature in particular. It should go up, then stay constant.
And it is totally fine to lash the tiller, knock it into astern and run in gear for a while, you will be using full astern at some point, so make damn sure it works. If the owner won't let you do these things, that is a large warning flag. All engines can safely be warmed up quickly by running in gear when made fast to a pontoon.
Any reluctance to obey the gear lever, and any clunking, whirring or grinding noises from the gearbox, coupling and shaft are not normal and may cost a lot to fix.
Good luck and let us know how you get on.
But putting extra fenders and springs on, and running it in forward gear, at half to 3/4 ahead until everything is smoking hot, can also reveal expensive issues. Monitor the gauges, for temperature in particular. It should go up, then stay constant.
And it is totally fine to lash the tiller, knock it into astern and run in gear for a while, you will be using full astern at some point, so make damn sure it works. If the owner won't let you do these things, that is a large warning flag. All engines can safely be warmed up quickly by running in gear when made fast to a pontoon.
Any reluctance to obey the gear lever, and any clunking, whirring or grinding noises from the gearbox, coupling and shaft are not normal and may cost a lot to fix.
Good luck and let us know how you get on.
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Gary Fox
N/A
Good advice, back to basics.
Blueboatman
Well-known member
Some really good advice written above
So put your hand on the engine, block as well as cylinder, to see whether it was fired up !
So put your hand on the engine, block as well as cylinder, to see whether it was fired up !
Wansworth
Well-known member
Wansworth
Well-known member
Photos of Benetuae 27
Attachments
Blueboatman
Well-known member
Never mind all that did the wife like it?
Wansworth
Well-known member
Yes,she has more reservations about me?
Blueboatman
Well-known member
‘Harmony’ on the transom and in the purchase decision most useful outcome then ?
Wansworth
Well-known member
I concluded that the First 27 had various problems that I saw by studying pictures on internet,one being a definite problem with the shroud base inside the cabin…..anyway moving on to the Friendship28 on close scrutiny of the photos I discovered a manual anchour windlass right up forward of the roller furling gear,interesting.The downside of this boat is it’s supposedly registered in Belgium which is illegal if you are not resident there so it will need reflagging to Poland or Spain,as yet not seen the boat for real.Not many choices here in Galicia.But it’s interesting to take care to study the photos to see what is actually on offer and possible areas to beware