Lockdown batteries

We have a freezer full of food in our flat and the electric is from a prepaid meter that will run out soon and we have noway to get there or to get some one to add payment.

When we get their we will have a stinking mess to dispose of let alone the cost.
 
We have a freezer full of food in our flat and the electric is from a prepaid meter that will run out soon and we have noway to get there or to get some one to add payment.

When we get their we will have a stinking mess to dispose of let alone the cost.

I’d hope that the rules for that changed today. If an estate agent can show prospective buyers round your flat, you ought to be able to feed the meter...
 
I’d hope that the rules for that changed today. If an estate agent can show prospective buyers round your flat, you ought to be able to feed the meter...

The only keys are with me 800 km away.

Our Pres is telling us tonight what changes will be allowed.
 
Engine bank (that’s a big word for two Rolls AGMs?) 12.7 v

House bank, left with charger off but gas detector on, because I was expecting to get back on board the next day, 8.3v... dead, dead, and never called me « mother! ». ?

Another drop of misery new added to the account.

Try charging them up, they may survive.
 
Try charging them up, they may survive.

Agreed but success may depend on the charger

My understanding is that an old fashioned non-smart charger may succeed where a modern smart-ass one may not.

My own smart charger ( nothing special and an impulse buy) claims to recharge batteries from a low state. It has an automatic recondition mode which can be also be activated manually
 
Same problem, almost identical, also gas detector. These a pair of surprisingly pricey Exide AGM's.

I have a poncy charger, which has a desulfication (s?) mode, but there are warnings against using it on anything other than wet batteries.
 
Try charging them up, they may survive.

Thanks Paul!

(Paul knows the boat well)?


I am a little bit miffed because I did particularly ask MDL to turn the charger on; this is outside the scope of services that they provide but I would have happily paid extra as I have in the past. I also asked them to tend the warps which they did - perfectly. They acknowledged the instructions and did one but not the other!

Rant over!

I am nervous about leaving the charger on when I am not on board as it runs very hot
(the fan works, but if it stopped...) so I’ll give it a go tomorrow.
 
Last edited:
Agreed but success may depend on the charger

My understanding is that an old fashioned non-smart charger may succeed where a modern smart-ass one may not.

My own smart charger ( nothing special and an impulse buy) claims to recharge batteries from a low state. It has an automatic recondition mode which can be also be activated manually

Yup, i agree. Some smart chargers won't begin their cycle if the battery is totally flat as they don't recognise that they are connected to anything.

When i was in the automotive trade i had a small Accumate charger in the workshop, left connected for 2 or 3 days it rescued many flat batteries over the years. Might need something larger for Kukris bank of leisure batteries though :)
 
Same problem, almost identical, also gas detector. These a pair of surprisingly pricey Exide AGM's.

I have a poncy charger, which has a desulfication (s?) mode, but there are warnings against using it on anything other than wet batteries.

I wouldn't normally recommend desulphation/equalisation for AGM batteries, although Lifeline seem to think it's OK for their batteries. But if they are otherwise dead, it might be worth a shot, as a last resort. I'd try them on a "normal" charge first though and only desulphate when you're onboard.
 
Thanks Paul!

(Paul knows the boat well)?


I am a little bit miffed because I did particularly ask MDL to turn the charger on; this is outside the scope of services that they provide but I would have happily paid extra as I have in the past. I also asked them to tend the warps which they did - perfectly. They acknowledged the instructions and did one but not the other!

Rant over!

I am nervous about leaving the charger on when I am not on board as it runs very hot
(the fan works, but if it stopped...) so I’ll give it a go tomorrow.

Normal batteries might be hard to revive from such a discharge, you might get away with it with your deep cycle batteries.

Some of things to consider, going forward:

  • Do you need the gas alarm on when not onboard ? Turn off at the bottles before you leave and you can't get a leak.
  • If you feel you need to leave the alarm on, perhaps a low voltage cut off relay. Although, it could be awkward with a gas alarm, as you be relying on it being on.
  • Perhaps a moderate solar panel ?
 
Normal batteries might be hard to revive from such a discharge, you might get away with it with your deep cycle batteries.

Some of things to consider, going forward:

  • Do you need the gas alarm on when not onboard ? Turn off at the bottles before you leave and you can't get a leak.
  • If you feel you need to leave the alarm on, perhaps a low voltage cut off relay. Although, it could be awkward with a gas alarm, as you be relying on it being on.
  • Perhaps a moderate solar panel ?

* No, I don’t think I do. Good point. The detector was hard wired On when I bought the boat and I ought to have changed it.
* No need to leave it on; the bottle locker vents overboard efficiently
* You know you are going to get me into that solar panel before the year is out!?
 
* No, I don’t think I do. Good point. The detector was hard wired On when I bought the boat and I ought to have changed it.
* No need to leave it on; the bottle locker vents overboard efficiently
* You know you are going to get me into that solar panel before the year is out!?

IMO, connect the gas alarm to the load circuit of the isolator, so it's off when you leave the boat, make sure the gas bottles are off too.

Erase any images of Lord Trenchard from your memory banks ?
 
Gas detector sensors have a heater element to get them up to their operating temperature, they run on less than 12v and they often have just regulated DC-DC voltage reduction rather than a switch-mode power supply so they can use a surprising amount of current. Mine are wired into the cabin lighting breaker.
 
We have a freezer full of food in our flat and the electric is from a prepaid meter that will run out soon and we have noway to get there or to get some one to add payment.

When we get their we will have a stinking mess to dispose of let alone the cost.
A journey to collect food could be considered an essential one.
 
Gas detector sensors have a heater element to get them up to their operating temperature, they run on less than 12v and they often have just regulated DC-DC voltage reduction rather than a switch-mode power supply so they can use a surprising amount of current. Mine are wired into the cabin lighting breaker.
IMHO there seems to be an inherent problem with that arrangement; if you go below and switch on the lighting breaker in order to activate the gas detector, the resulting spark will activate the gas, with disastrous results.
 
IMHO there seems to be an inherent problem with that arrangement; if you go below and switch on the lighting breaker in order to activate the gas detector, the resulting spark will activate the gas, with disastrous results.

I am thinking of fitting a gas detector switch in the cockpit, next to the engine panel, for that very reason.
 
Top