Piers
Well-known member
So all this makes me wonder why our Fleming 55 has no switch. She's fitted with isolation transformers (fore and aft shore supplies) but no switch. Ought I to find an electrician to fit said 'switch'?
So all this makes me wonder why our Fleming 55 has no switch. She's fitted with isolation transformers (fore and aft shore supplies) but no switch. Ought I to find an electrician to fit said 'switch'?
So what should you do? (sorry I'm a bit bored today, waiting to go the boat tomorrow so feel free to ignore)
Some have an internal "bridge cable" that must be installed before connecting shore power when ashore rather than a switch . what I.T. do you have?
It's a misunderstanding on the part of the guy who told you this. I have this on my boat. The shore power goes thru a proper isolation transformer, which is a proper way to build a boat. The earth circuits in the boat earth to the P bracket or a hull plate. Therefore, unavoidably and perfectly correctly, the earth circuits are not connected by copper to the shorepower earth, but if the boat is OOW that means there is no earth at all. To cure this, there is a big switch in the e/room or somewhere and you close it to join the boat's earth to the shorepower earth, when the boat is OOW. There is a little red light on the dash/panel to tell you this switch is closed - reminding you to open it once you are back in the water, so that you again become completely isolated (in the sense of no copper connection) from the dock and other boats in the marina
This is not a Fairline issue; you get it on any boat with a proper electrical isolation transformer system installed (as opposed to a mere "galvanic isolator" or whatever you call the inferior alternative)
I would be far more inclined to follow the advice of the IT manufacturer (or manufacturer of any kit come to that) than any builder even of the reputation of Flemming, as I asked earlier, what Isolation Transformer do you have? It's no good pointing a smouldering charred finger at anybody.
Hi jfm. Just had an email from Fleming stating there's no need for this on their boats! Yes, they fit isolation transformers as standard, but their MD is quite clear that nothing should be done earthing-wise for a Fleming out of the water and still connected to shore power.
I totally don't buy that Piers. If someone wants to email me telling me that Thursday isn't the day after Wednesday then that's perfectly ok, but they need to give some explanation. They cant just make the naked statement. (I don't care that he is the manager of Flemming or whatever). I realise that just the RCDs provide much protection on their own, but they don't generally eliminate need for earthing. I'm with David as regarding pointing of charred fingers
to find out how your transformer is operating - measure the resistance from the shore power connector earth to the earth on one of Play d'eau's 240v sockets. (obviously no shore power connected and gennies off) If its open circuit you are not earthed ashore, if it is earthed you are not galvanically isolated. Unless Flemming have fitted a clever switch that knows when the boat is in the water.(doubt it)
Just a thought
What would be the implication of forgetting to break the switch when the boat goes back in the water?
None as regards safety. But your boat metal would be copper connected to your neighbour's and you could be the anode in a multi-boat electrolysis system. Basically, you would have disabled the protection that your isol transformers are meant to give you.Just a thought
What would be the implication of forgetting to break the switch when the boat goes back in the water?
This is perhaps just a simple electrical question about RCDs but:
Assuming a 'plastic' boat up on shore with no metal connection to earth...
Where does the residual current current go in order for an imbalance within the RCD?
Would an RCD be of any use without an earth connection if, for example, a live wire came in to contact with the metalwork in the boat (which is not earthed)?
If the RCD wasn't tripped by this initial contact, I assume all the bonded metalwork would become live and anyone touching it while standing on the ground would get a shock (until the RCD kicked in).
the residual current is going into another conducting (or partially conducting) object -The RCD would detect that more than 30milliamps of current was not being returned and immediately shut down. if there was a genuine electrical fault on board to an exposed metal part and the boat wasn't earthed and you touched it you would feel a very small shock for a fraction of a second - a few hundred milliseconds. Probably enough to make you go "ouch", approximately 1 -2 joules of energy. Walking across a nylon carpet and touching a filing cabinet will feel worse. An RCD doesn't need an earth connection to work - it just measures the difference in current between the live and neutral wires. If everything is OK then the current out will equal the curent returned (more or less).
An RCD is a better safety device than an earth connection. With an earth connection you are relying on a fuse or circuit breaker to blow - these are usually 10 amps plus and can take quite a bit to make them trip out - more than enough to do you serious damage. Humans conduct electricity quite well but possibly not well enough to blow a fuse/breaker and you can get a serious shock without the fuse blowing (I know from experience)
for an electrical current to flow there has to be a potential difference (voltage) - we tend to get hung up on the idea of a circuit or path that the electricity flows around, which is generally what happens, however if another possible conductor is close by/touching that path and it is of a different electrical potential then some current will flow that way. - if the electrical potential is large enough the other path need not even be touching - resulting in arcing, sparks or lightning etc.
an earth is not neccesarily required to have electrical leakage, also if an earth is fitted it doesnt follow that any leakage will always take that path. I don't think the prop shaft in proximity to the rest of the metal parts in the boat or the ground would have sufficient capacitance to absorb enough charge, to create enough of a current to trip the RCD. So, yes, someone would get a surprise in your scenario, but as long as the RCD is working all would be well.
However such an eventuallity is very unlikely - boats are usually pretty good electrically speaking. - actually no they are pretty rubbish as the connections get worse over time but generally in a safe "its not working" way, wires tend to stay in place.
the term residual comes from the idea that normally with no fault the current in minus the current out should be zero. If a fault occurs it may still be zero, however once a new electrical leakage path is available (ie a human touching an exposed circuit) there will be a difference in current in and out - a residual current. sorry if I am labouring this.