Lifting Perkins HT6.354 - heat exchanger hole

nicclark

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Hi,

Not sure if anyone has experience or ideas...

We have an Ocean 37, original engines less than 3k, was well looked after until abandoned on the Thames. We brought it back and out of the water under own power, but it seems now we have put back in the water and started using her that it was damaged by frost. The oil cooler in the outer sump has a split in which has allowed water into the block. The oil is out and sump undone, but will not clear the bearer by about 10mm. I therefore need to lift the engine an inch or so to allow this to happen. I am thinking of using a ratchet strap and scaffold pole over the saloon floor, as others have suggested. Any tips for doing it and is it OK to get it properly silver soldered by a professional rather than replacing? Engine seems fine otherwise and runs well.

Thanks!
 
Hi,

Not sure if anyone has experience or ideas...

We have an Ocean 37, original engines less than 3k, was well looked after until abandoned on the Thames. We brought it back and out of the water under own power, but it seems now we have put back in the water and started using her that it was damaged by frost. The oil cooler in the outer sump has a split in which has allowed water into the block. The oil is out and sump undone, but will not clear the bearer by about 10mm. I therefore need to lift the engine an inch or so to allow this to happen. I am thinking of using a ratchet strap and scaffold pole over the saloon floor, as others have suggested. Any tips for doing it and is it OK to get it properly silver soldered by a professional rather than replacing? Engine seems fine otherwise and runs well.

Thanks!

Reminds me when I changed the oil pump one one years back , it was the crown but same hull.
I had to lift the rear of the engine and used wood to make an H frame over the engine , just a few inches off it’s mounts, blocks under to take weight job done .
 
I would use a chain block and a timber, maybe 8 * 2 standing on its side rather than scaffold, but otherwise, go for it.

Is a new tube stack available? I'd do that rather than solder.
 
As Ben, but put bearers under the pole to spread the load as a round pole puts a lot of pressure on one point and bearers spread the load out across their total area.

One other option is maybe to use hydraulic jacks under the engine mountings to lift it a tiny amount and pack it once lifted.
 
I've used silver solder plenty when repairing damaged / holed petrol tanks on motorcycles and for brazing closed 2 stroke bell exhausts after decoking. So long as the surface is well prepared and clean it's dead easy to use and strong with no problems thereafter. That I think will be your biggest hurdle with an oil cooler should you choose to braze with silver solder.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone, I was a bit daunted at lifting it but am reassured! Our engineer is eternally optimistic. New ones are not easily available, Bowman apparently didn't make it. There was one on ebay in America from a used engine but very expensive and the engine is being dismantled because it was not looked after so no guarantees...
 
I was indeed! We sold the Fairey last year and she's gone back down the river in the London direction. I had always wanted an Ocean 37 and found one abandoned - it's certainly been a lot of work but worthwhile I hope.
 
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