Lacquer: %sheen?

[Porthandbuoy]

I’ve started scraping back the internal woodwork on Sheolin. No idea what the original 1970’s finish was; some sort of lacquer I assume.
Scraping off the old lacquer was quite easy. Came off in blonde ribbons, when it turned to brown dust I knew I’d reached the wood.
I’m looking at lacquers now, which seem to come in a variety of sheens from 10% to 90%. What % looks best down below?

 

[Bodach na mara]

If you find a post from Concerto and go to his members info i think you can find a link to his PowerPoint presentation on refinishing internal woodwork. From memory I think that 30% reflectivity is recommended but that may be only for the floor.

 

[Concerto]

Westerly used a 30% sheen in the Morrells 450 acid catalyst high build up low odour lacquer. When I refurnished Concerto that is what I used and it looks good. The photo below shows how much sheen is on the refurbished side of the bulkhead. When mixing the lacquer I never mixed more than 60ml at a time as it sets quite quickly when applied by brush. I used 3 coats. I should point out before applying any lacquer, check all of the original finish has been removed by wiping the surface with a damp cloth. The wood should absorb a little moisture, if it does not resand the area otherwise you will get creamy coloured patches under the new lacquer.

https://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/images/2/25/Interior_Woodwork_Concerto_PowerPoint.pdf

 

[Porthandbuoy]

Thanks @Concerto. I've read your excellent presentation and I reckon I'll follow your guidelines re. scraping back. I was considering using a non-catalised water based lacquer. Low odour, low VOC and no mixing being the advantage as I see it. I've used it on the hardwood floor in the hallway and it's lasted for years.

 

[justanothersailboat]

I used a 50% sheen catalysed cellulose lacquer, Morrells 440. I like it but it's arguably it's a tad on the shiny side. I was impressed with how it behaves and it's easy to soak in by using a more-thinned mix for the first coat. Needs to be made up slightly thinned anyway to brush on well if not spraying - I think the 450 is slightly more forgiving there but is trade-counter-only.

When something has a certain wood finish already, I am wary of applying one with a different basic chemistry - like waterbased 1-pack polyurethane over something that has had a cellulose lacquer scraped off, or anything other than oil varnish over oil varnish. I don't trust it to always bond as well as it would to bare wood. Even scraped and sanded there is still the old stuff in the pores.