Kedge anchor choice

[PabloPicasso]

So the choice for a new kedge anchor seems to be
1 a genuine fortress
2 cheaper Danforth type
3 spade.

What are the pluses and minuses?

 

[JumbleDuck]

I've just acquired an unused but secondhand Fortress FX-11. I already had a Danforth type, but I liked the idea of something really lightweight. I plan to use it with almost all rope to make a light anchoring setup that my small crew can easily recover.

 

[vyv_cox]

I would find a Spade rather pricy for a kedge that sees relatively limited use. I use a kedge quite a few times per season but rarely (never?) in situations that it needs to be life-saving. My Fortress FX16 has served us very well over more than 15 years now, for me it is close to ideal for the purpose.

 

[oldbilbo]

. My Fortress FX16 has served us very well over more than 15 years now, for me it is close to ideal for the purpose.

What do you have secured to it, in the way of chain/rode?

 

[vyv_cox]

What do you have secured to it, in the way of chain/rode?

5 metres of 8 mm chain shackled to 50 metres of 16 mm Anchorplait. There is a hard eye in the Anchorplait as I wanted the versatility this gives instead of splicing it directly to the chain. (In another application the rope splice tends to keep water trapped inside itself, accelerating corrosion of the chain and weakening the rope) 16 mm is way over what is needed from a strength perspective but it is very pleasant to handle.

 

[duncan99210]

What do you have secured to it, in the way of chain/rode?

We have a Guardian (cheapo version) with five metres of 8mm chain and 50 metres of rope. This mirrors Fortress's instructions of only needing a short length of chain. Works well.

 

[JumbleDuck]

(In another application the rope splice tends to keep water trapped inside itself, accelerating corrosion of the chain and weakening the rope)

Interesting. My old chain had some anchorplait spliced to it - just 10m or so - and the chain was very rusty all along the splice.

 

[PetiteFleur]

Interesting. My old chain had some anchorplait spliced to it - just 10m or so - and the chain was very rusty all along the splice.

Ditto, my main anchor chain also has anchorplait spliced to it and is also rusty, I may do something about it this year. Also use a Fortress as a kedge, about 5m of 8mm chain + a length of 'pink' anchorplait(aquired after I washed the rope in the washing m/c but did not realise my wife had done some dyeing immediatly beforehand) - it's very pretty!

 

[DoubleEnder]

My boat is 34 feet LOA, 24feet LWL and displacement around 6 tons. Does the team think FX16 is appropriate? It will be used a fair bit when mooring bows-to, so more of a stern anchor than a kedge
Space and weight are at a premium, so I like the way these can be taken apart for stowage

 

[laika]

It will be used a fair bit when mooring bows-to, so more of a stern anchor than a kedge

Interesting question: Do people* usually use their "kedge" anchor for kedging or are they far more commonly used as a stern anchor, in bahamian mooring or as a second anchor when a serious blow is expected? I'm guessing the term "kedge" now most commonly means "the anchor which doesn't live in the bow roller"

* or more specifically, people in boats with engines which work....

 

[noelex]

I would find a Spade rather pricy for a kedge that sees relatively limited use. I use a kedge quite a few times per season but rarely (never?) in situations that it needs to be life-saving. My Fortress FX16 has served us very well over more than 15 years now, for me it is close to ideal for the purpose.

I always thought that the Spade anchor was much dearer than the Fortress, but I am not sure this is still the case. It is always hard to generalise about prices. They vary a great deal from country to country. There are lots of discounts available (especially on Spade where an extra 10% is offered for some sailing forum members).

I did a search a while ago for another post and the prices were €450 for the FX-23 (12-14m), €770 for the FX-37 (14-15m).
The Spade A80 (less than 10.5m) is €503 and the A100 (less than 16m) is €673 (these are larger than the OP needs). This is for the aluminium Spade, which is considerably more expensive than the steel version. The aluminium Spade does not have as good performance as the steel version, but it worth considering for a kedge.

Anyway, search for best price before you commit and don't make the assumption that the Spade will be a great deal more expensive than the Fortress.

 

[Ravi]

My boat is 34 feet LOA, 24feet LWL and displacement around 6 tons. Does the team think FX16 is appropriate? It will be used a fair bit when mooring bows-to, so more of a stern anchor than a kedge
Space and weight are at a premium, so I like the way these can be taken apart for stowage

According to the Fortress recommendations table, the FX-16 is the right anchor. YOu mention 'taking apart' and stowage. If you are using it regularly, will you not be keeping it in a kedge bucket?

 

[BabaYaga]

I carry an aluminium Spade (A80) in a home made bracket on the rail, used as a stern anchor. Very handy and out of the way when sailing.

Edit: As can be seen, I use no chain at all. This is for convenience, but works surprisingly well, both in terms of wear on the rope (16mm polyester anchorplait) and anchor setting.

 

[Ravi]

Interesting question: Do people* usually use their "kedge" anchor for kedging or are they far more commonly used as a stern anchor, in bahamian mooring or as a second anchor when a serious blow is expected? I'm guessing the term "kedge" now most commonly means "the anchor which doesn't live in the bow roller"
* or more specifically, people in boats with engines which work....

In Greece, the Kedge is often used for bows-to mooring to a quay. Often, when there is a metre or so of rubble or shallowing on the seabed, near the quay.

Bows-to with the kedge anchor is often the preferred quayside mooring method for singlehanders - especially if they don't have an electric windlass with a remote control. It allows the anchor to be deployed (chucked) and used for braking from the cockpit. Recovery from the cockpit is also handy for the singlehander. I know a few singlehanders who, almost exclusively, use this kedge method of mooring and consider their bow anchor and chain as emergency storm anchoring tackle.

The kedge and chain/warp are usually kept in a dedicated 'bucket' attached to the pushpit.

 

[ITH]

My boat is 34 feet LOA, 24feet LWL and displacement around 6 tons. Does the team think FX16 is appropriate? It will be used a fair bit when mooring bows-to, so more of a stern anchor than a kedge . . . .

I have a Nauticat 35 and a Fortress FX16 so I think it would be appropriate for you. Like Vyv Cox and others I have a short length of chain and - in my case - 60m of 16mm three-strand nylon. I love my Nauticat dearly, but in reverse she behaves like a drunk walking a white line; so to avoid embarassment we frequently moor bows to.

However, I agree with Vyv Cox's advice; "not using the Fortress in situations when it needs to be life saving." To which I'd add not choosing the Fortress when mooring bows-to with strong winds on the beam. The Fortress offers great holding power (particularly in sand or mud) with the wind astern, but is apt to need re-setting if the wind shifts.

 

[laika]

In Greece, the Kedge is often used for bows-to mooring to a quay.

That's my point. The term "kedge" seems to have changed in its usage, from an anchor used for kedging to being generically any smaller, non-primary anchor to being, for many today, a synonym for a stern anchor.

(at this point someone will inevitably chip in to say they have a long keeler which doesn't maneuverer under engine so they invariably kedge their way in and out of marinas)

 

[Neeves]

Anchors, and/or second anchors are still not cheap and take up room. To have one that cannot replace the primary, for that occasion when the primary is not available (you lose it, temporarily or permanently) seems like a wasted opportunity. I'd have a second anchor immediately available for use, so attached to the transom or an easily accessible locker. Assembling a Fortress in the dark and rain is a recipe for losing the nuts! If you anchor in thin mud (and sand, especially soft) the Fortress is unbeatable - and might then become your primary for the occasion.

We use 15m of chain and 40m of warp, single eye splice in the warp. We also carry an A80 which is excellent, disassembled (which we also use as a primary) - but it is much easier and quicker to assemble than a Fortress.

edit - we never 'kedge' we do deploy 2 anchors in a 'V' and we do set anchors off the stern when we want to reduce swing room. Alloy anchors lend themselves to deployment from a dinghy. close edit

 

[vyv_cox]

My boat is 34 feet LOA, 24feet LWL and displacement around 6 tons. Does the team think FX16 is appropriate? It will be used a fair bit when mooring bows-to, so more of a stern anchor than a kedge
Space and weight are at a premium, so I like the way these can be taken apart for stowage

Almost exactly the same figures as my Sadler34. I use an FX16 and know that it holds well in winds over force 8. No reason to suppose it would let go or drag on higher forces.

 

[Pasarell]

I have a Fortress FX23 with 8m of 8mm chain shackled to 50m of 16mm multiplait with a hard eye. Keep it on the aft deck of my 13m centre cockpit boat and use for occasional bows to mooring in Greece. Also easy to shift to the bow if mooring in mud which the Fortress handles much better than my Delta on the bow roller. I've also dropped from the dinghy to form a V at the bow when moored with a line ashore where room is tight. It's really easy to handle and takes up little space where I store it. I can't imagine dismantling it and needing to put it together in a hurry!

 

[Fortress Anchors]

I can't imagine dismantling it and needing to put it together in a hurry!

Here' s a quick tip for fast dis-assembly: Don't ever remove completely remove the two nuts from the two bolts on the two clips that are on the two flukes which hold the stock (narrow round rod) to the flukes......just loosen them up.

Once you do this, you can then slide the stock right out of the other parts and the anchor collapses in seconds.

For fast assembly, put all of the anchor pieces together except for the stock, which you will slide through one of the clips, then through the crown (center piece) and shank holes (you will have to line those two holes up), and then out the other side through the remaining clip.

Then make sure the stock is centered 50 / 50% each side, and tighten down the nuts & bolts.

This should speed up the process and you won't be fumbling around with loose nuts & bolts.