KAD32 known engine problems??

ozzie

ozzie

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I have been making enquiries about a Sealine S28 year 1997 that is for sale and has just been reduced. Apparently the reason for reducing the asking price is down to it needing engines and outdrives serviced ,but when the engines were checked they were found to have engine problems that need rectifying to the cost of £11k - £14k! The broker has been upfront about it, and has said that these "issues" are common on Kad32s over 10 years old. I havent spoken to him yet to ascertain exactly what needs doing, but is this likely to be a problem with all KAD32s of this age? I was trying to get a KAD 32 within my budget, but I am now thinking would a boat of this age be a better proposition with the more basic AD engine? After running my Drago 600 with 100hp four stroke for 3 years with nothing more than annual service I am now having second thoughts on changing. I would welcome some advice please.
 
Must be seriously neglected engines, AD's and KAD32's as bulletproof as they come, no known problems that would cause that sort of expense. Maybe the drives have completely corroded away or something.
 
I cannot see 14 k worth of work , who did the survey? Sounds like some dealer is trying it on to make a fast buck.

Let me hear or see the report.
 
Is this a certain S28 that has corroded sump pans and suspect outdrives and been sat on the hard standing for a while?
 
Depending on how you feel about getting the remedial work done and how hard you can haggle, there could be a bargain in there. Outdrives can be rebuilt (often are) and sump pans replaced. Might be worth getting some of the volvo experts here to go and have a look. Is it a single engined S28?
 
11-14k!!!

It's possible to run up the occasional £2k bill with older KAD32's and their outdrives (mainly the outdrives), but such a huge bill is definitely not normal for engines that have been properly maintained and winterised.
 
I have seen the engineers report and it is depressing and long! hear is a list of just some of the problems.

supercharger seized
sump pans corroded
severe surface rust on engines
rusty pulleys wearing out belts
3x new batteries
water in gear oil
bellows leaking
gearcase corroded to holes
wiring loom chaffed
calorifier u/s
throttle cable sticking

this is not even the full list! She has obviously been neglected, and as I dont want an unreliable boat I will give her a miss. The search goes on
 
ozzie said:
I have seen the engineers report and it is depressing and long! hear is a list of just some of the problems.

supercharger seized
sump pans corroded
severe surface rust on engines
rusty pulleys wearing out belts
3x new batteries
water in gear oil
bellows leaking
gearcase corroded to holes
wiring loom chaffed
calorifier u/s
throttle cable sticking

this is not even the full list! She has obviously been neglected, and as I dont want an unreliable boat I will give her a miss. The search goes on
Click to expand...
This is a definite walk away list!
 
rafiki_ said:
This is a definite walk away list!
Click to expand...

An engineer would be able to sort all that out as a project boat, but it's not typical.
Just the supercharger would be £2000 or so, but most owners would just check the oil a couple of times each season.
 
ozzie said:
I have seen the engineers report and it is depressing and long! hear is a list of just some of the problems.

supercharger seized
sump pans corroded
severe surface rust on engines
rusty pulleys wearing out belts
3x new batteries
water in gear oil
bellows leaking
gearcase corroded to holes
wiring loom chaffed
calorifier u/s
throttle cable sticking

this is not even the full list! She has obviously been neglected, and as I dont want an unreliable boat I will give her a miss. The search goes on
Click to expand...

SC can be rebuilt despite what VP would like you to think.
Sump pans - Why are they corroded. If there is a simple answer engines out and replace them.
Rust on engines - Again why? If its a simple answer fettle them whilst they are out having the sump pans replaced.
Rust pulleys - Replace them or refurb them
Batteries - We would assume they need replacing on any boat we bought. They are consumable.
Water in gear oil - Oil seals have been damaged. Not a huge or expensive job to put right
Bellows leaking - Change them, anyway as part of a full service. Check for any damage the water ingress may have caused and repair as necessary.
Gear case corroded - Why? Suspect anodes not changed on a regular basis. Change casing and anodes
Wiring loom chaffed - Repair it
Calorifier - replace it
Throttle cable - Replace it

I dont really see £14k of work in that lot!!

That said if its the boat I suspect it is I would still walk away as there is a damn sight more than just mechanical works needs doing to get it right again. Unless of course you can get it for next to nothing and spend a year, some time and a wedge of cash fettling.

ETA: I wouldnt say that any of that is typical of a KAD32 or indeed a DPE drive that has been well maintained. Except perhaps the oils seals in the drive. We damage those pretty much every year with fishing line or plastic bags!!
 
CX54WEK said:
SC can be rebuilt despite what VP would like you to think.
Sump pans - Why are they corroded. If there is a simple answer engines out and replace them.
Rust on engines - Again why? If its a simple answer fettle them whilst they are out having the sump pans replaced.
Rust pulleys - Replace them or refurb them
Batteries - We would assume they need replacing on any boat we bought. They are consumable.
Water in gear oil - Oil seals have been damaged. Not a huge or expensive job to put right
Bellows leaking - Change them, anyway as part of a full service. Check for any damage the water ingress may have caused and repair as necessary.
Gear case corroded - Why? Suspect anodes not changed on a regular basis. Change casing and anodes
Wiring loom chaffed - Repair it
Calorifier - replace it
Throttle cable - Replace it

I dont really see £14k of work in that lot!!

That said if its the boat I suspect it is I would still walk away as there is a damn sight more than just mechanical works needs doing to get it right again. Unless of course you can get it for next to nothing and spend a year, some time and a wedge of cash fettling.

ETA: I wouldnt say that any of that is typical of a KAD32 or indeed a DPE drive that has been well maintained. Except perhaps the oils seals in the drive. We damage those pretty much every year with fishing line or plastic bags!!
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If the DPE drive have been sitting with water in the oil for a longer period it is very likely to have damaged all of the bearings as well as the gears which if you just change the seals will give you another 50 hours or so before it starts to sound like my coffee grinder and need a complete rebuild. The gearcase corroded issue I assume is also the drive and if its been sitting in the water with worn out anodes for a long period the whole casing is wasted, it will be full of pitting and there will be very little material left. All in all it sounds like a completely new DPE drive which I think is around £7K already.

Personally I would not consider buying this boat however cheap someone said they could fix it.
 
A_8 said:
If the DPE drive have been sitting with water in the oil for a longer period it is very likely to have damaged all of the bearings as well as the gears which if you just change the seals will give you another 50 hours or so before it starts to sound like my coffee grinder and need a complete rebuild. The gearcase corroded issue I assume is also the drive and if its been sitting in the water with worn out anodes for a long period the whole casing is wasted, it will be full of pitting and there will be very little material left. All in all it sounds like a completely new DPE drive which I think is around £7K already.

Personally I would not consider buying this boat however cheap someone said they could fix it.
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Ours must be ready to drop off or explode then.

It has certainly had water in the oil for more than 50 hours over the years and still performs reliably. That said we do service it every year without fail but the water ingress can be in there from any time it is relaunched to any time it is lifted so can potentially be there for up to 300 hours use each year. The drive was checked over thoroughly this year and given a clean bill of health.

In the worst case stick a couple of recon drives on at £2k each.

If someone is willing to put the time and effort in it could make a nice boat again. Right now though we aint ready for a project boat. The sun is shining its time to go boating not fettling :)
 
CX54WEK said:
Ours must be ready to drop off or explode then.

It has certainly had water in the oil for more than 50 hours over the years and still performs reliably. That said we do service it every year without fail but the water ingress can be in there from any time it is relaunched to any time it is lifted so can potentially be there for up to 300 hours use each year. The drive was checked over thoroughly this year and given a clean bill of health.

In the worst case stick a couple of recon drives on at £2k each.

If someone is willing to put the time and effort in it could make a nice boat again. Right now though we aint ready for a project boat. The sun is shining its time to go boating not fettling :)
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Oily water in any drive is a recipe for total disaster failure, I know you spend most of your time pottering on the fosdyke, use you leg at sea with water in and you will net a different result. The first problem you have with emulsified oil is a slipping cone clutch and loss of the case hardening of the upper and lower gear set, along with rapid bearing wear and eventual failure of the upper bearing above the drive cone.
Unless you had the drive totally stripped after the water ingress totally flushed out casing spilt into three sections you will still have emulsified oil in there. 2 k for a recon leg???? There have been many discussions on here about recon drives from two uk companies, I can personally speak that you can be on to a real hiding buying so called recon drives.

A bottom gear set along for a duo prop DPE is 2k , then you have to stop and build the leg along with endless time shimming up the backlash. A new drive cone alone is over £300 plus fitting. Unless your company stripped your drive right down then the clean bill of health is worthless.
 
Without naming names is it possible to get quality recon outdrives either in the UK or maybe from the US and roughly what do they cost? Sounds like that S28 is a serious money pit and will only (if ever) sell for buttons to a knowledgable enthusiast to repair and run for a few years to get the reliability back and the sad state its in now forgotten. If the rust on the sumps is more than cosmetic is that an engine out job on an S28?
 
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