KAD 44 Rocker Gasket

volvopaul said:
I admire whoever has taken the time to make that gasket but sadly after fitting hundreds on and off over the years I doubt as it’s cork it will seal .
I’d observe that because the rubber gasket sits in a groove in the cover and it’s a lot thinner than the cork gasket the gasket will be pushed out of alignment when it’s tightend down .
The reason I’m saying this is because if you look at the cover where the bolts pass through it there is a machined stop so that when you tighten down the cover the stop makes contact with the head face so that the gasket is crushed at the correct pressure to seal , that way you can’t over tighten the bolts and push the gasket out .
The cork gasket looks too thick , it remind me of the Ford Dorset Dover gasket that has such a span between the bolts it sometime pushes itself out or inwards then you loose the seal.

In all the years I’ve been doing this I have never bought the stupidly expensive glue from VP , I’ve used black gasket maker from a car factors , wynns is a good make about £9 a tube.

One observation from Andy 59 is the fact the cover may not pull down to seal around the injectors plus to will sit too tall to enable fitting of the injector leak off rail.

When I do this job I always remove as much of the engine as possible to enable a straight drop vertically down and evenly when fitting so that the glue spreads evenly , take off the turbo inlet pipe and the spill rail pipe that goes under the black box to the top of the inejector pump, that gives you a clear drop, taking off the engine lift brackets as well can help especially on the terrible Prestige 32 and 36 boats .

Of course I wish you well in this attempt to sort your leaks and am happy to be proved wrong.
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Thanks for the insight Paul.

I guess after 3 failed attempts by two different mechanics to seal it I thought it worth giving something else a try.

As I mentioned in a previous post, I dont get the cover & gasket until Sunday but I believe the gasket is only 4.5mm so should leave plenty of room for it to pull down and seal around the injectors (fingers crossed).

I think the plan is that when the cover is fitted to use the gasket along with some Wynns (previously I believe they used the VP stuff).

Should get the boat finished off next week and hopefully back in the following week so I'll update this post either way once I know whether it's worked or not.
 
Dazzajohm said:
Thanks for the insight Paul.

I guess after 3 failed attempts by two different mechanics to seal it I thought it worth giving something else a try.

As I mentioned in a previous post, I dont get the cover & gasket until Sunday but I believe the gasket is only 4.5mm so should leave plenty of room for it to pull down and seal around the injectors (fingers crossed).

I think the plan is that when the cover is fitted to use the gasket along with some Wynns (previously I believe they used the VP stuff).

Should get the boat finished off next week and hopefully back in the following week so I'll update this post either way once I know whether it's worked or not.
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You won’t crush cork , the standard vp rubber is only approx 1to 2 mm protrusion from the face of the cover and is I’ve stated it pulls down so it’s virtually metal to metal as in head to cover , the machined protrusion gives the clamp down distance so lifting it by 4mm may not allow you to fit the fuel rail.
You best bet is to follow my procedure . What boat is this engine fitted to?

As for the 3 attempts it’s down to experience and training , you must use someone who knows the issues and the correct protocol, trust me it does work with sealant.
 
volvopaul said:
You won’t crush cork , the standard vp rubber is only approx 1to 2 mm protrusion from the face of the cover and is I’ve stated it pulls down so it’s virtually metal to metal as in head to cover , the machined protrusion gives the clamp down distance so lifting it by 4mm may not allow you to fit the fuel rail.
You best bet is to follow my procedure . What boat is this engine fitted to?

As for the 3 attempts it’s down to experience and training , you must use someone who knows the issues and the correct protocol, trust me it does work with sealant.
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Ok - it’s on a Princess 266
 
kashurst said:
how big/high should the bead of gunge be? thanks
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It should be higher than the raised pad around the bolt holes by a few millimetres, then when you tighten it down it will have a slight crush effect ensuring a good seal. I let the bead almost harden then apply a thin layer again on top so it seals any irregularities in the bead against the head. I have done this job dozens of times on boats with very limited access over the motor mainly Windy’s where you don’t want to remove more than you have to, and this has always worked one 100% for me as the last thing you want is a leak at the rear where oil tends to collect on the top of the head, meaning you have to do the whole job again! I know the Volvo sealant may be more expensive, but on such a labour intensive job as this its not worth counting the pennies when what you really want is peace of mind that its going to be as good as when it left the factory. Thats why I never reuse any kind of seal that has been crushed or disturbed as the extra cost far outweighs the cost of having to fix a leak later, as I tell my customers, its cheap insurance and they tend to agree.
 
volvopaul said:
Oh I remember this one , previous threads about poor performance. Purchased from CR . ?
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Yep that’s the one. Pretty much sorted with it now I hope or at least it will be when it goes back in water. Had the leg stripped down and checked over, new props and a few other bits, this is the last thing I need to sort then I hope I can have a decent and relatively stress free season.
 
spannerman said:
It should be higher than the raised pad around the bolt holes by a few millimetres, then when you tighten it down it will have a slight crush effect ensuring a good seal. I let the bead almost harden then apply a thin layer again on top so it seals any irregularities in the bead against the head. I have done this job dozens of times on boats with very limited access over the motor mainly Windy’s where you don’t want to remove more than you have to, and this has always worked one 100% for me as the last thing you want is a leak at the rear where oil tends to collect on the top of the head, meaning you have to do the whole job again! I know the Volvo sealant may be more expensive, but on such a labour intensive job as this its not worth counting the pennies when what you really want is peace of mind that its going to be as good as when it left the factory. Thats why I never reuse any kind of seal that has been crushed or disturbed as the extra cost far outweighs the cost of having to fix a leak later, as I tell my customers, its cheap insurance and they tend to agree.
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So Spannerman & Volvo Paul, you guys anywhere near Dover? If so either of you sound like the ideal person to come and solve this once and for all if it doesn't seal this time around :)
 
Both Spannerman and Volvopaul are worth listening to but your free to ignore them that’s how you get problems that they avoid
Enjoy
 
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scottie said:
Both Spannerman and Volvopaul are worth listening to but your free to ignore them that’s how you get problems that the you avoid
Enjoy
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Indeed, and as you will note from my comments I have listened to them but at the end of the day I also have to listen to other suggestions such as those of the engineer who have worked on my boat and came up with this suggestions...

You will note that as soon as I suggested that perhaps Spannerman or Volvo Paul might like to help me out of my predicament the following silence was deafening :p

Have a great weekend :)
 
You will note that as soon as I suggested that perhaps Spannerman or Volvo Paul might like to help me out of my predicament the following silence was deafening
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VolvoPaul is very busy at this time of year, and drops in from time to time. He generally covers the Hamble/Solent area. Dover sounds like a long way away.
I'm not sure spannerman is even in the right country? (well, he would say he's in the right country) :p
 
Dazzajohm said:
Indeed, and as you will note from my comments I have listened to them but at the end of the day I also have to listen to other suggestions such as those of the engineer who have worked on my boat and came up with this suggestions...

You will note that as soon as I suggested that perhaps Spannerman or Volvo Paul might like to help me out of my predicament the following silence was deafening :p

Have a great weekend :)
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Take a step back , I live in Nottinghamshire, spannerman lives in Norway !!!

The central south coast is my area not Dover , I think between us we have done all we can to be very honest mate, CR might be able to help as isn’t it where you bought it from ?
 
volvopaul said:
Take a step back , I live in Nottinghamshire, spannerman lives in Norway !!!

The central south coast is my area not Dover , I think between us we have done all we can to be very honest mate, CR might be able to help as isn’t it where you bought it from ?
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:D :D Worth an ask all the same. I think I'm done with the original people for as I'm sure you will agree understandable reasons.

Cheers
 
volvopaul said:
Take a step back , I live in Nottinghamshire, spannerman lives in Norway !!!

The central south coast is my area not Dover , I think between us we have done all we can to be very honest mate, CR might be able to help as isn’t it where you bought it from ?
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Wow you must do a fair few miles, I always assumed that you were on the south coast. I grew up between Derby And Nottingham and lived at Long Eaton before I moved to Devon, then Norway. I will be back in Notts, Derbys and Lincoln in 2 weeks to visit family.
 
spannerman said:
Wow you must do a fair few miles, I always assumed that you were on the south coast. I grew up between Derby And Nottingham and lived at Long Eaton before I moved to Devon, then Norway. I will be back in Notts, Derbys and Lincoln in 2 weeks to visit family.
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Hi , I’m 25 mins from Long Eaton , my Dad had a boat when I was young at Sawley and Shardlow .
 
For those of you interested I thought I would give a breif update.

Rocker cover was reattached using the hand made gasket and a little bit of Winns sealant to help keep in in place. All went on OK. Boat re-launched today and run up. No leaks and all appears fine. Warmed up the engine to about 60° for the oil change by pottering about the marina and again all fine with no signs of any leaks

Next step will be to take for a good run and see but so far so good!
 
Final update...

Managed to get the boat out for a run and up to full operating temperature. No problems what so ever and the gasket seems to work fine.

Caught up with the engineer who said it wasn't too bad to fit either. Needless to say I'm very pleased.
 
Dazzajohm said:
Final update...

Managed to get the boat out for a run and up to full operating temperature. No problems what so ever and the gasket seems to work fine.

Caught up with the engineer who said it wasn't too bad to fit either. Needless to say I'm very pleased.
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Glad to hear of the gasket solution.
How did you get on with the new props
Must has been pretty cold out there today
 
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