KAD 300 problem - fuse blown- NOT the compressor fuse the other one

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kashurst

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Its started already, had boat lifted for the usuals, however starboard engine wouldn't start. It was OK back in February. The edc control wouldn't "select" the engine (this is third hand, I am still in UK, boat in Spain 'so may not be exact sorry).

It sounds just like a problem I had back in November. One of the two fuses blew. NOT the compressor fuse! the other one that supplies everything else. At the time we replaced the fuse and everything was OK until 3 days ago.

I have been studying the engine wiring diagram and its mostly sensors which I wouldn't expect to blow a fuse, just give incorrect readings. However there are three solenoids described:
Actuator** - apparently its on the fuel injection pump - what is it?
Solenoid Alpha** - on the injection pump - what is it?
Stop solenoid - I am guessing its on the injection pump - where is it?

Are these just 12v activated solenoids or something electronic? If so can I test them with a 12v supply to check they click in and out. My engines only have 140 hours after 14 years so I suspect a bit of corrosion/sticking in one of these solenoids is taking out the fuse - which is only 7.5A. However its pretty hard to tell as this one fuse powers a lot of bits and pieces.

Any other suggestions welcome. Thanks
 
Hi Kevin

Actuator is for gearbox solenoids
Alpha is the throttle actuator inside the injection pump, I’ve not come across one yet that’s failed .
Stop solenoid is outside of the injection pump end of pump above the 6 injector pipes , it is only activated by 12 v positive when the stop key is turned so it’s not that that is blowing the fuse .

Are you saying fuse blows as soon as you fit another ? If so it could just be a wiring harness fault , very tricky to find .
Check all 3 relays inside black box , there is also another box in there called a DC DC convertor , I’ve had these fail .

Lastly if your batteries are low and you try and crank it can blow the fuses, don’t ask me why .
I’d be checking the plug to the injection pump , a large round plug , then the 2 8 pin edc loom plugs .
The system works on a ground relay which in effect makes the system for all the edc sensors an earth free system from the chassis , should the ground relay be faulty you won’t get access to select station and in turn start up .
Hope that’s enough for now , over the years I’ve had many 44s and 300s with a non start situation, pulling off a few plugs here and there can do the trick .
 
This may sound stupid but check the surface of the fuses - if dirty looking give the ends a file down to make clean and a dab of Vaseline
 
Found the problem, the starboard dc-dc converter is dead.
Swapped good one from port engine, starboard engine started instantly

Just need to man up and call volspec or RKmarine for a new one tomorrow
Any one like to guess how much it will be?????
 
kashurst said:
Found the problem, the starboard dc-dc converter is dead.
Swapped good one from port engine, starboard engine started instantly

Just need to man up and call volspec or RKmarine for a new one tomorrow
Any one like to guess how much it will be?????
Click to expand...
Hi Kevin, sounds like I was on the right track .
I can get you one sent out tomorrow or Tuesday if you like ?
 
Ordinarily I would just get something of eBay or maplins and modify it a bit. But this one supplies the power to the engine ECU and I suspect it does a bit more than regulate the incoming voltage. So I have gone for a new volvo one because if I got it wrong and the ECU goes bang that will be a proper bill. Still a massive rip off though.
 
kashurst said:
Ordinarily I would just get something of eBay or maplins and modify it a bit. But this one supplies the power to the engine ECU and I suspect it does a bit more than regulate the incoming voltage. So I have gone for a new volvo one because if I got it wrong and the ECU goes bang that will be a proper bill. Still a massive rip off though.
Click to expand...

surely you're going to hack the dead one open and see what's inside!
maybe it's salvageable and kept as spare for the god forbid, next one going...

V.
 
Absolutely. It has an epoxy covering at one end. Hopefully that's just a thin layer. Otherwise it's going in a bath of nitromors to see what's inside.
 
I would hope you got a generous discount, one of the VP centres are normally competitive and offer a better price, it’s worth a couple of phone calls as they don’t show the discounted prices online, no one pays full retail anymore.
 
kashurst said:
Absolutely. It has an epoxy covering at one end. Hopefully that's just a thin layer. Otherwise it's going in a bath of nitromors to see what's inside.
Click to expand...

:)
careful with nitromors you don't want to dissolve the lot, and the id/serial# of the components in there!

V.
 
G
jrudge said:
Lord. No idea what voltage it converts but DC DC converters I buy on eBay are £5 for a variety of voltages ( 24/12 24/5 12/5 etc)
Click to expand...

A resurrected thread .

The DC DC convertor is to stabilise the voltage and current to the ecu when cranking the engine .

Too many ECU failures in the early days , Princess tried by wiring the ECU feed direct to the batteries on the 44 , by the time the 300 came out the convertor was standard fit through a loom alteration inside the black box, an example would be that when cranking the engine the battery voltage is 10 volts into the convertor but 12 volts output , it’s a clever inverter if you like , and yes I’m sure the likes of RS or marlins have them ..
 
petem said:
K, did you ever strip the voltage converter down?
Click to expand...

yes, this afternoon, your post reminded me.
Didn't do a full strip down, as the circuit board is totally immersed in epoxy. Removing the epoxy does more damage so not repairable at all. However I got enough of it off to get the idea what the module does. It is a proper DC to DC converter (I had suspected it was just some cheap surge suppressor). However I doubt it cost more than £25 to make - I can appreciate Volvo need to make a profit but £600 is taking the p@ss. In the unlucky event I need another one I will be scouring RS components website.

edit - bored today so been rummaging around. This should do the job perfectly, the 12V supply to the supercharger clutch does not go through the Dc - DC converter. (NOTE need to do a few measurements, average current, max current, nominal output voltage from exiting convertors, to be sure so please anyone don't shoot off and buy one with out checking)
http://www.cactusnav.com/alfatronix...dc-12vdc-continuous-intermittent-p-13609.html, £70 !!!
 
Last edited:
kashurst said:
yes, this afternoon, your post reminded me.
Didn't do a full strip down, as the circuit board is totally immersed in epoxy. Removing the epoxy does more damage so not repairable at all. However I got enough of it off to get the idea what the module does. It is a proper DC to DC converter (I had suspected it was just some cheap surge suppressor). However I doubt it cost more than £25 to make - I can appreciate Volvo need to make a profit but £600 is taking the p@ss. In the unlucky event I need another one I will be scouring RS components website.

edit - bored today so been rummaging around. This should do the job perfectly, the 12V supply to the supercharger clutch does not go through the Dc - DC converter. (NOTE need to do a few measurements, average current, max current, nominal output voltage from exiting convertors, to be sure so please anyone don't shoot off and buy one with out checking)
http://www.cactusnav.com/alfatronix...dc-12vdc-continuous-intermittent-p-13609.html, £70 !!!
Click to expand...

Hi Just found this thread and seemed relevant to something I am looking at now. I have a KAD44 and am on my 2nd EDC in 3 years. My engine doesn't have a dc to dc converter but a floating diode on some loose cables. I am paranoid that I will have another EDC go and leave me stranded and £2.5k out of pocket. I was wondering about fitting a DC to Dc converter into the supply side of the engine controls and have asked a couple of suppliers who dont seem to be able to advise if their unit will do the trick I was considering a Victron Tr 12/12 -9 or a BEP Surge Protection Module 12v Dc . I dont mind spending a few quid if it gives me piece of mind and security. Any suggestions?? All help and suggestions gratefully received. Thanks Paul
 
Pmitch said:
Hi Just found this thread and seemed relevant to something I am looking at now. I have a KAD44 and am on my 2nd EDC in 3 years. My engine doesn't have a dc to dc converter but a floating diode on some loose cables. I am paranoid that I will have another EDC go and leave me stranded and £2.5k out of pocket. I was wondering about fitting a DC to Dc converter into the supply side of the engine controls and have asked a couple of suppliers who dont seem to be able to advise if their unit will do the trick I was considering a Victron Tr 12/12 -9 or a BEP Surge Protection Module 12v Dc . I dont mind spending a few quid if it gives me piece of mind and security. Any suggestions?? All help and suggestions gratefully received. Thanks Paul
Click to expand...

The Victron Orion DC-DC converter looks very suitable, arguably better than the Alfatronix device, slightly more powerful with a better temp range. If possible I would not mount it on the engine to reduce the vibration.
the BEP surge supressor clamps at 17V which is a bit high for me and it does not maintain a 12V nominal output if the supply voltage drops below 12V . I wouldn't use one for this job, as it wont supply the EDC with 12V when cranking with a flat-ish battery when the battery voltage could go as low as 8V.
I would have thought the volvo DC DC converter of a KAD 300 would work fine too.
 
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