Johnson bilge pump wiring - cable woes

[antaris]

Hello to all!

In my new (to me) boat, I am refurbishing (re-building, to be exact) the heads and eventually arrived at the point or re-installing everything.

Here is the rocker switch for the Jonhson Bilge pump, used to drain shower water:


And, here's the back of it (Up-side-down):
(ignore the blue wire, it's irrelevant)

This mess, in diagram, looks like this (also up-side-down):


The pump has a lead with 3 wires, so I am ok with re-attaching wires #2, #5 and #6. It was working before, in both auto and manual, so I should be fine.The + and - are noted and ok.

What about WIRE #4 (seen at bottom of diagram)? Where does that go? unfortunately, I did not take enough photos when un-installing. I think it was disconnected...

TY!

 

[PaulRainbow]

Wire 4 cannot connect to a negative.

Wires 4 and 5 would normally connect to a float switch/water sensor.

It's illogical to have the lamp connected to the auto setting, it means the lamp will be illuminated all of the time. It makes more sense to connect it to the manual setting, in which case, move it to the bottom terminal.

 

[antaris]

Thank you sir. The labels shown are as seen on the cables (provided they were not moved by accident in the past - this is old!)

I have absolutely no clue as to what's what. And the labels don't help much...

Would you be so kind enough as to explain which wire should go into which Switch terminal (I added letters):

Keep in mind that Cable #5 terminates bundled with another two cables on B.

TY!

 

[PaulRainbow]

The wiring to terminal 5 doesn't make sense and wire 4 cannot possibly go to a negative.

I suspect that the original wiring incorporated a float switch/water sensor, which would have had wires #4 and #5 connected to it. Looks like someone has replaced it with a pump that has an integrated water sensor. What is the model of the Johnson pump ?

Terminal B should be the auto connection, in which case the lamp will light up when you switch to auto. Terminal D is the manual setting, can you confirm that (put the switch on auto, does the lamp illuminate) ?

 

[rogerthebodger]

Thank you sir. The labels shown are as seen on the cables (provided they were not moved by accident in the past - this is old!)

I have absolutely no clue as to what's what. And the labels don't help much...

Would you be so kind enough as to explain which wire should go into which Switch terminal (I added letters):
View attachment 89312
Keep in mind that Cable #5 terminates bundled with another two cables on B.

TY!

Are the colours on the pump correct as those colours look like a mains pump ( line, neutral and earth ) not 12 Vdc

This shows a similar switch wiring diagram

 

[PaulRainbow]

Are the colours on the pump correct as those colours look like a mains pump ( line, neutral and earth ) not 12 Vdc

This shows a similar switch wiring diagram

I suspect someone has used some domestic three core flex, the pump has three wires, so there shouldn't be a float switch.

 

[rogerthebodger]

I suspect someone has used some domestic three core flex, the pump has three wires, so there shouldn't be a float switch.

So you think the float switch is incorporated into the pump ? If so the switch connections would still be the same

If that correct you may be correct about the domestic three core flex.

 

[antaris]

Well spotted. Indeed, some previous owner used domestic 3-core flex to extend connection of said shower bilge pump to switch.

As for the pump; it is Attwood's Sahara S500 Automatic Bilge Pump (with integrated float switch and 3 cable connection):


Due to the Covid business, I am currently working away from my boat - I have the parts seen here with me (along with all the head furniture), but the pump is in the boat... till next week, I guess...

 

[antaris]

My god, why is life so complicated?

From the Sahara manual; this looks simple enough to me... only it does not indicate the switch details (C, D and E), lol

 

[pvb]

Well, as I understand it, the black pump wire goes to the 12v negative, which would be terminal E on the switch in your diagram in post 3.

The brown/white or tan pump wire goes to terminal B on the switch in your diagram.

The brown pump wire goes to terminal D on the switch in your diagram.

The 12v positive feed goes to the fuseholder, then on to terminal C on the switch in your diagram.

The link between terminals A and B on the switch in your diagram allows the warning light to come on when the switch is set to manual.

 

[Yorkshire Exile]

On reading the title, I thought this post was about our Prime Minister.

 

[DownWest]

On reading the title, I thought this post was about our Prime Minister.

You need to get a gripp..and look slightly beyond politics. There are a few problems that the unelected mob on here might help with..


Oh, just asking. But why were you exiled from Yorkshire? Not worried my'self, but a friend asked..

 

[Yorkshire Exile]

You need to get a gripp..and look slightly beyond politics. There are a few problems that the unelected mob on here might help with..


Oh, just asking. But why were you exiled from Yorkshire? Not worried my'self, but a friend asked..

You are so right, thank you, I just needed to be shocked out of my trance. 4 weeks of grit and determination is so wearing. So what is the PBO approach to the unavailabilty of yeast (doesn't have to be marine grade)?

My exile occurred because I was heard admitting that I didn't know everything.

 

[antaris]

Hey lads, we have bigger issues here - my bilge pump is still dis-connected.

Jokes aside, I think that I managed to assert what each tab means (from your posts) - I will therefore have a go, with a set of spare fuses, just in case.

Thanks to everyone - hopefully resolved the issue...