Jabsco Toilet Conversion

[mikesyam]

Hi All
Got a Sealine F33 with a manual toilet and have bought a new electric one to upgrade it, does any body know if its a simple job to swap over or whats involved?
Thanks
Mike

 

[philip_stevens]

It is really easy to change the electric motor/pump for the manual pump - but... you need a 20 amp fused supply for the motor.

I fitted one last year, and removed it within a week. The noise would have alerted the marina or anchorage, that someone was "using". I am sorry to say, it is noisy, even if a convenience.

 

[mikesyam]

Hi Philip
Its not a pump conversion, I bought a complete new toilet because they now do a quiet flush version, my boats already pre wired for the electric version so hopefully its only the plumbing which I need to worry about, Sealine told me its a simple swap but as its going to be swapped on a Sunday i am worried about any bits I might need.

 

[HeadMistress]

Wiring is the most critical issue. You said the boat is already wired for the toilet, but that's no guarantee it's wired correctly.

Make sure that all the following is true:

1. that the wiring is on a separate dedicated circuit, shared by nothing else that can pull power away from the toilet if it's on when the toilet is flushed. If it has its own separate breaker labeled "toilet," it is. If it's on an "accessories" or some such breaker, it isn't. If the boat has only fuses instead of breakers, you'll have to trace to some wiring to find out.

2. that the wire size is the right size for distance--which is always measured round trip, NOT one way--from the power source (battery).

3. that the distance does not exceed the max specified in the instructions.

Low voltage to the toilet will not only result in sluggish discharge--especially of solids--but will also damage the motor.

Plumbing:

Unless your toilet is one designed to use onboard pressurized flush water, if the toilet will be below the waterline, you'll need a vented loop and a solenoid valve (electric version of an air valve) in the head intake. The solenoid valve is Jabsco part #37068-0000. Follow the installation instruction instruction manual to wire the solenoid to the flush button. And you'll need a vented loop in the discharge line as well (but no solenoid valve, just the standard air valve to prevent waste from squirting when you flush).

You'll need wire and the proper size hole saw to mount the flush button.

I suggest you open the box and read all the installation instructions very carefully before you take the toilet to the boat on Sunday. They'll describe what's needed. And then follow those instructions even more carefully when you install the toilet.

 

[marcusgillies]

if your old toilet is a jabsco brydon then you will fine that at preasent the outlet hose needs to be reduced from 1 1/2" to 1" you will find an adaptor in the toilet packaging.
you will also need to remove the studs or bolts or what ever sealine use to hold the manual wc in with and the hole pattens for the electric version are different. using only 3 fixings as opossed to 4.
Is it a QUIET or a SILENT flush model??

 

[mikesyam]

Thanks for the replies, the boat has a switch/breaker only for the toilet on the switch panel, there is a thickish wire not connected behind it which Sealine said is the supply down to the toilet when the electric option is specified instead of a manual, the new one is a quiet flush.
Mike

 

[JasB]

On the subjects of sea toilets, can anyone post a link to a site that explains how they work? I find knowing how they work is the best way of knowing how to fix them when they are broken.

Yes...I AM too tight to pay someone else to do it.

 

[HeadMistress]

I'll do better than that...this is how most manual toilets work:

Most manual marine toilets have piston/cylinder pumps that all work pretty much the same way: a piston rod inside a cylinder pulls water in on one stroke and pushes it out on the other stroke. Manual toilets are “double-action”, that is both sides of the piston (or diaphragm) are used simultaneously for different purposes. Beginning with the operating handle or knob in the down position, when you pull it up, a vacuum is created in the space below the piston which pulls some of the contents from the toilet bowl and into the bottom half of the pump cylinder. Then, when you push it down, a pair of built-in valves reverses and the material is pushed out of the bottom half of the pump and downstream – to a holding tank, treatment system, or overboard (where legal). A lever or knob on the top of the toilet pump operates a valve in the intake that opens the path to the intake hose in the “wet” or “flush” position, closes the intake to block the flow of flush water coming into the bowl in the “dry” position. In the “wet” mode, the pump pulls water in AND pushes bowl contents and flush water out. While in the “dry” mode, air pressure created by pumping a manual toilet that is in good condition can move waste and water through the system up to about 6 feet without bringing in any flush water. The “dry” mode is primarily used for two purposes: 1) to clear the bowl to keep water from sloshing out when on a hard heel or when encountering rough seas. 2) To aid in clearing a temporary clog, such as too much toilet paper, etc. It won’t bring in any outside water so there’s no risk of overflowing the bowl.

The installation instructions for most toilets--which you can download and print from most mfrs' sites--includes an exploded diagram of the pump and at least a minimal trouble-shooting guide. If that's no help, you can always ask here or PM me.

 

[JasB]

excellent answer...thanks!

This place is a mine of useful information.