Jabsco raw water input hose leak

[Graham_Wright]

The Jabsco supplies sea water to the heat exchanger and currently it is fed via a filter from a shore supply tank during engine tuning. (The boat is on the hard).

The feed to the pump intake is plastic ring reinforced suction pipe. Despite two Jubilee clips, I cannot stop a weep from this joint. The mechanism of a Jubilee clip is such that there is a discontinuity of bore smoothness. The two clips are spaced 180° apart.

The hose reinforcing spiral may prevent compression.

Do I need a different clip or different hose?

I accept that, in the water, there will be near zero pressure at the intake but, currently, there is about 2 metres of head.

All help please.

 

[RichardS]

Ideally the hose should seal at low pressures without the hoseclip. I wonder if the pump spigot is slightly damaged or whether the hose has stiffened with age and needs replacing or the end re-cutting if it's long enough? Perhaps try some silicone grease which will help a hose which is past it's best.

It's not unusual to see people doing up clips tighter and tighter to try and get them to seal but that should not be the cause of the leak.

Richard

 

[Graham_Wright]

Ideally the hose should seal at low pressures without the hoseclip. I wonder if the pump spigot is slightly damaged or whether the hose has stiffened with age and needs replacing or the end re-cutting if it's long enough? Perhaps try some silicone grease which will help a hose which is past it's best.

It's not unusual to see people doing up clips tighter and tighter to try and get them to seal but that should not be the cause of the leak.

Richard

It is new hose and the spigot feels o.k. My gut feeling is that the spiral reinforcement is forcing the hose interior to be non circular. There exists a wire based hose clip which seems to offer more continuous pressure around the the whole circumference of the hose. It is far from a snug fit on the spigot but the other end is a very tight fit on the filter.

 

[Len Ingalls]

Ideally,the hose should be a "difficult" push fit over the serrated spigots on both the pump & seacock.
You should notice the hose expand a bit as you push it on.You may even need a bit of lube(soap,vaseline,etc-) to push hose on.
The clips/clamps just hold it in place-it should be leakproof without them.
Check the actual outside diameter of each serrated spigot,& get hose that matches. Cheers/Len

 

[Graham_Wright]

Ideally,the hose should be a "difficult" push fit over the serrated spigots on both the pump & seacock.
You should notice the hose expand a bit as you push it on.You may even need a bit of lube(soap,vaseline,etc-) to push hose on.
The clips/clamps just hold it in place-it should be leakproof without them.
Check the actual outside diameter of each serrated spigot,& get hose that matches. Cheers/Len

Unfortunately there are no barbs on the Jabsco! The other end on the filter is so barbed and a swine to accept the hose!

 

[NormanS]

Lower the tank to WL, and stop worrying.
On the hard, I use a bucket fitted with a hose connection, with the other end of the hose stuck tightly into the appropriate skin fitting. The bucket is kept just overflowing with a hose from a water supply. The bucket is suspended so that the water level is at approx boat WL.
Simple and straightforward.

 

[Pye_End]

Some silicone sealant before you put the hose on the tail usually does the trick.

 

[ksutton]

You can get a much better (and safer) clamping force using a stainless "bolted" hose clamps, superior engineered to your regular jubilee type clamps. RS do them, or google "stainless bolted hose clamps". I have never understood why they are not used more extensively for marine use, much more secure and safer. The only downside is that the tightening bolt takes up more room, but I have never had a problem in this respect.

 

[Len Ingalls]

Unfortunately there are no barbs on the Jabsco! The other end on the filter is so barbed and a swine to accept the hose!

Convert the Jabsco to hose barb,to match your seacock,if possible.
Some RW pumps have straight no barb spigots,intended for 5/8" auto heater hose,& will never seal safely using coil supported 3/4" suction hose(or metric equivalents).

 

[Niffler]

If the hose wasn't an absolute trugger to get on then it's the wrong size hose. Might be an imperial/metric thing. We use hair driers to get them fully softened and even then the right hose on the right spigot should still be difficult. Jubilees are a bit carp but thousands of boat owners use them on smooth spigots and don't see any leaks.

 

[Graham_Wright]

Lower the tank to WL, and stop worrying.

That doesn't fix the fault! If water can escape, air can enter when in service.

On the hard, I use a bucket fitted with a hose connection, with the other end of the hose stuck tightly into the appropriate skin fitting. The bucket is kept just overflowing with a hose from a water supply. The bucket is suspended so that the water level is at approx boat WL.
Simple and straightforward.

I used to have the tank in the firing line from the exhaust thus recirculating the cooling water.

Unfortunately, my skin fittings have grids over them so its a bit more messy.

 

[Graham_Wright]

You can get a much better (and safer) clamping force using a stainless "bolted" hose clamps, superior engineered to your regular jubilee type clamps. RS do them, or google "stainless bolted hose clamps". I have never understood why they are not used more extensively for marine use, much more secure and safer. The only downside is that the tightening bolt takes up more room, but I have never had a problem in this respect.

I'll try those as a first fix. I have seen ones made from wire on cars which completely "hug" the hose but I don't know the name.

Room is not a problem.

 

[Graham_Wright]

Convert the Jabsco to hose barb,to match your seacock,if possible.
Some RW pumps have straight no barb spigots,intended for 5/8" auto heater hose,& will never seal safely using coil supported 3/4" suction hose(or metric equivalents).

I'm a tight wad!

If the inlet and outlet are on the same centre line, I might try turning some barbs.

 

[Tranona]

I'm a tight wad!

If the inlet and outlet are on the same centre line, I might try turning some barbs.

Surprised nobody has suggested you change the hose. Really no need for that horrible spiral stuff.. As you have discovered it is a pig to clamp. Ordinary reinforced PVC hose is fine, and guess what easy to seal with a jubilee clip. Expect your spigot is 3/4".

 

[Graham_Wright]

Surprised nobody has suggested you change the hose. Really no need for that horrible spiral stuff.. As you have discovered it is a pig to clamp. Ordinary reinforced PVC hose is fine, and guess what easy to seal with a jubilee clip. Expect your spigot is 3/4".

Does that not collapse if the inlet route becomes blocked? Jabscos are big suckers!

 

[Tranona]

Does that not collapse if the inlet route becomes blocked? Jabscos are big suckers!

No. Would be really worried if the Jabsco ducked hard enough to collapse the hose. Remember the water it pumps goes somewhere so can only create a vacuum if there is a blockage. Have used that type of hose for years without problems.

 

[Graham_Wright]

You can get a much better (and safer) clamping force using a stainless "bolted" hose clamps, superior engineered to your regular jubilee type clamps. RS do them, or google "stainless bolted hose clamps". I have never understood why they are not used more extensively for marine use, much more secure and safer. The only downside is that the tightening bolt takes up more room, but I have never had a problem in this respect.

I bought a couple which looked massive (although there is only room for one). At the time the bolt sheared, the leak was worse!

I will follow Tranona's advice and go for softer hose.

 

[Poignard]

Surprised nobody has suggested you change the hose.

You beat me to it!

Really no need for that horrible spiral stuff.. As you have discovered it is a pig to clamp. Ordinary reinforced PVC hose is fine, and guess what easy to seal with a jubilee clip. Expect your spigot is 3/4".

That's what I have. The hose (which is clear) has an internal latticework reinforcement. Mine must be about 15 years old and gives no trouble.

This sort of thing:

http://upload.ecvv.com/upload/Produ..._PVC_Braided_Reinforced_Hose2013931026223.jpg

 

[Spyro]

If the hose looks ok and you have a bit of extra on it I would first try cutting 2 inches off and reconnecting, as said it should be a tight fit before hose clips go on. I that doesn't work try a couple of turns of self amalgamating tape around the spigot. That will work. If you haven't got self amalgy tape. get a new hose that fits. The problem is not the clips

 

[Niffler]

I agree but several of us have said so and the OP doesn't want to believe it. Irrespective of barbs or smooth, if the hose won't go on unless you get it really hot then you've got the wrong sized hose.