Is there such thing as a "better" engine oil?

MapisM

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Having recently debated this topic off-forum with a couple of esteemed forumites, and before that also with some MAN engineers, I thought to post a thread in order to:
a) share my findings so far, in case anyone else might be interested;
b) hear other, possibly different, views.

As a premise, I always used Mobil Delvac MX 15W40 as engine oil for the Cat 3116 engines of my previous boat, for no less than 17 years, with zero problems.
Btw, that oil always remained remarkably clear also after 100 hours or so, though I suppose that this was more down to the type of engines and their use at very low rpm/load in that installation.

Last year, I asked a MAN engineer who serviced the new to me boat in the past what type of oil he used, and his answer was Shell Rimula R4 15W/40.
At that time, after checking if such oil meets the MAN specs (which it does), I went for it, simply on the basis that it already worked for some 14 hundreds hours, and if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
But since then, I had the opportunity to talk with several other MAN engineers (another 3 of them, so 4 in total), and all of them confirmed that Shell stuff is their preferred choice.
This made me wonder if anyone else ever had the same feedbacks from other MAN service centers.

TBH, I tend to think that once an oil meets the manufacturer's specs, the type/brand is mostly a matter of picking whatever is more conveniently available and/or less expensive.
Also because in pleasure boats, engine oils are normally changed much more frequently than they are supposed to last, in terms of hours of operation.
But of course, if there's a widespread consensus about a specific type/brand, AOTBE I would stick to it, rather than switch to the Mobil stuff I was used to, as I was considering to do upon the next oil change.
Again, just a matter of it ain't broke etc.

Just for the records, the latest MAN approval code is M3277, which includes all their engines.
Pre-CR engines were instead designed for M3275 compliant oils, which are specifically NOT approved for CR engines.
As I understand, the opposite is ok, i.e. M3277 oils are approved also for use in pre-CR engines.

Apropos, another interesting topic is the usefulness (or not) of more modern oils on oldish mechanical engines, originally designed for fully mineral oils.
Sticking to the MAN example, there's plenty of full mineral oils which meet the M3275 specs (including the Mobil Delvac MX which I used in Cat engines), but afaik all M3277 compliant oils are semi-synthetic.
In other words, more modern engines seem to demand, unsurprisingly, more modern oils.
BUT, are these semi-synth oils worth using also on older engines, which kept running for years on mineral oils?
By "worth using", I mean strictly in terms of performance/protection, regardless of cost.
In fact, semi-synth oils are indeed a tad more expensive, but the difference is meaningless, when compared to other engine maintenance costs - let alone to the whole boat TCO!

Fwiw, on this specific point, one of the forumites with which I discussed this matter via PM already gave me his clear answer, which was yes, semi-synth oils do have several advantages valid also for engines originally designed to work with mineral oils. Otoh, he strongly discouraged full synth oils.
But I'll leave up to him to post more details, if he wants.

Time being, I was mostly interested in other views on this topic, also in order to check if the consensus on Shell which I experienced so far (albeit in a relatively small area, i.e. the N Adriatic) is reflected also anywhere else.
 
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This strike me as being identical the the computer processor argument (not sure if its still running) of Intel vs AMD.
Home brew computer builders were, for the most part, staunch supporters of one or the other CPU, citing many builds prior to choosing one or the other that failed or were unreliable.
In the face of such failure they come to a point when they are going to build a reliable mega machine. In amongst all the other decisions is the choice of more expensive PSU and brand name RAM. Lo and behold a reliable computer, was it the RAM, was it the PSU, no its the CPU thats the thing.... Only it isnt, by far the biggest cause of failed home build computers is the rAM very closely followed by the PSU.


So, whats the moral (or more to the point what the heck is this doing in a boaty thread about oil??)

Mebby at some point these engineers mad a whole raft of improved choices and have given all the credit for reliability to the choice of oil.
 
I saw this documentary on the Discovery Channel the other day about this (really) big ship. The engine is so big that engineers can crawl about inside it. But what impressed me the most was that the same engine oil is used for the life of the ship. Never replaced.
There were some caveats, an oil sample is regularly sent for analysis, the oil sludge is cleaned up by apprentices crawling in the sump with bundles of rags, and the top speed is only 91rpm (it cruises at about 30rpm).
That’s the kind of oil I’d like;)
 
I think you hit the nail on the head re choice “ picking whatever is conveniently available- - - “

Also I tend to agree with Lon nan Gruagachs point ( if I understand it correctly) unreliability in service and premature arrival at engine rebuild , scrap or repower stage in the marine liesure sector is rarely caused by the wrong oil used at service time

The hrs liesure boater do mean if there was a “ better oil “ out there the human lifespan is shorter and arguably your boating life obviously much shorter so who’s gonna feel the benefit ?

Assuming you follow the correct change regime for the oil and filters .Which personally for me is annually .

As for what others do - -
We have been using a Fina product as based in France .My engines are M3275 spec none CR ( the none CR a deliberate decision btw )
But with av of 80 hrs / year I suspect it never really gets well used or is ready after 12/12 for renewal, when it is renewed btw Seems a waste but hey ho .
http://www.lubs-products-database.total.com/gallery/ORIGINALS/visuels/32500/32869


We use 64 L , and prefer 5L containers as its easier to man handle .Inc tax under €600 - just for the oil alone .
Once I did indeed buy some MAN oil it came in 20 L drums and needed decanting into a suitable smaller container to get it in .
Worked out cheaper too by €150 .
Also this year we turned up at the SoF yard for a weeks maintenance to find the Tuesday and Thursday were bank hols , so try getting that stuff delivered on time when we need it .
It’s easy just buy the yard supplied oil and borrow a trolley.

Looking at this http://www.truckstar.com.ua/man blatt/M 3275-1_en.pdf. You can see there’s a huge choice around the world and you never hear of any oil issues .

Maybe those 3 MAN engineers get a “ deal “ with the shell stuff , a bigger margin to be made and of course it’s convenient.

Additionally I run my engines as I think they were intended basing the rpm on the EGT and load circa 1760-1825 rpm .
Neither too slow and low EGTs leading to excessive agglomeration formation or excessively too high over 2000 rpm with EGT s north of 600 degrees so I hope the oil in its short 80 hrs is not having a hard time .

Which brings me round to what you do to the oil , nevermind which oil ?
It’s what happens to that “ better “ oil not what ? In terms of longevity of the engine if that’s what you are worried about ?
 
Mineral vs synthetic
We get this debate in the Ferrari world regarding 70 ,s classics .
Obviously the OEM were mineral back then but the factory recommended as low as 3000 mile intervals and there were camshaft wear issues at around 30,000 miles back then .
Today we use fully synthetic in the same engines with longer intervals mileage wise .These cars rev to 7700 so if you do a lot of spirited driving the synthetic give max protection against the effect of heat build up at the higher rpms .
Also racing fully synthetic oils tend to have a wide viscosity range like 0W60 .
This means at cold starts the 0 eliment can get up the head valve gear quickly and start to lubricate when it’s cold as well as other important places more effectively.
The 60 element can protect a fully warmed up engine on the track at 7700 - 8000 rpm .
Modern Ferrari’s go north of 9000 rpm .So here oil quality plays a more significant part .
The downer of switching to synthetics in theses cars ( any older engines inc diesels ) is it’s thinner and causes weeps ,seeps , and leaks .
Your engine ends up leaking like a sieve and you are for ever chasing down weepy gaskets . over tightening alloy structures is not possible without stripping threads .You just accept it .

Mean while @ sea plodding along at 1800 rpm with Mineral oil in the MAN engines they do not weep ,seep or leak whatsoever.Theres no gaskets that ever need doing ,zero oil consumption .
No risk of any sensitive electrotwackerey getting wet with oil weeps and shorting to ground leading to headache dash lights and “ limp home mode “ etc

I suspect with diesels the emphasis is on its detergent and acid neutralising abilities over its actual lubricity powers .
There’s a huge difference between metals scraping at 1800 rpm and 8000 rpm .

A different attitude to leaks in the boat world where engines are painted white to help detect fluid leaks .I guess the consequences of engine failure are more serious in a boat .

So in the boat quite happy with M3275 spec mineral oil and dry externally engines .
 
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The points above clearly show why I encourage people to learn a little about lubricants as its something we all use and many people can readily and easily learn a little about lubricants for several reasons. In your case Mapis it is so you know how to spot the correct lubricant as you like Mobil and while Exxon have a good world presence, as do Shell, if you stick to a specific make, brand, or type and it isn't readily available in your area, or you are in a different area and cannot get your preferred oil then you know how to select the correct type of oil for your engine.

There are better oils than others and there are several factors which determine this and one recent example I found was that the exact oil was used in a Vauxhall model and the other was used in a Ford, due to the combustion characteristics of both engines, it lasted around 50% longer in the Ford engine and this determined their oil change intervals. many people do not realise that what they put in their engines is much better when it is put into their engines as new oil then the specifications dictate as the oil specification is the specification at the end of its life.

In simple terms, oil comprises two major components and the first is the mineral lubricating content which is the bit which lubricates the engine, the second part is the additives package which is there solely to protect the mineral content, and these can be broken down simply, the mineral content is derived from a base oil which is made to a set of specifications which determines whether it is a mineral or synthetic type and the additives package can be derived purely from mineral sources or purely from a synthetic source and you can blend the additives from both mineral and synthesised sources to form a semi synthetic oil.

Benefits; semi synthetic oils were solely designed to run in engines designed for mineral oils as the base oils were refined to a higher standard than mineral oils, but not sufficiently high to class them as synthetic base oils so you get a better mineral base lubricating oil and the real genius is getting the blend of the mineral and synthesised components correct so they protect the mineral content for much longer and this is where they gain. In addition a semi synthetic will have better detergents which will better clean the engine, better dispersants which gather and hold the solid elements from combustion and return them to the sump and break them down more efficiently, better anti oxidants which remove the various acids and neutralise them, and better VI's (viscosity improvers) which will keep its viscosity for longer.

Negatives: these can be costs, the additional costs of refining the mineral content to a better level, the costs of producing synthesised elements, and availability; commerce dictates this and as semi synthetics are now more popular than mineral oils they are generally slightly cheaper due to quantity.

Portofino, with respect you are talking apples and pears here as most racing oils are ester synthetics and not the traditional synthetics we are discussing, and I think you are complicating the issue unnecessarily as most marine/industrial engines do not use ester synthetics. I do understand your point but I think it may bring something into the equation that lubricants for boating do not need if people are looking to educate themselves on lubricants for their pride and joy.
 
The instructor on the Cummins Tech course said Shell Rimula. But it's changed names and designation a number of times since 2003 (!) and is now RT4X 15-40SAE

Gearbox oil used to be the same RT4X but 40SAE. this year my supplier advised this was stopped by Shell, so I now use Gulf Super Duty CF-40 in Play d'eau's gearboxes.
 
Apologies Mapis, I didn't fully answer your question.

You run low hours between oil services and you have the choice of mineral and semi synthetic oils as either will suffice if it is to specification, your current mineral oil will suffice and a semi synthetic of the correct specification will give an improved oil, so you can use either.

This brings it back to availability and price and this choice is beneficial to you and your pocket as often semi synthetic oils are the same price or cheaper than mineral oils due to the quantities they are made in, and the regular numbers of deals you can get on oils, particularly in larger quantities; depending upon what you have available locally means you can explore the full spectrum of the available oils and get the better oils at competitive prices to suit your application.
 
Shell?

This is a good oil and has good availability worldwide, but Shell have been rationalising recently along with most other oil producers and retailers which simply means they have rationalised a larger number of products into a smaller number of products with wider ranging specifications to lower the amount of products they have available and to make this fewer number of products in larger quantities.
Shell have a large supply chain, as do other larger oil producers and part of this rationalisation means they and their base oil and additives suppliers can produce these in larger quantities also, and this keeps a quality product at a competitive price; but this can cause confusion and people need to be aware of their changing specifications as part of this rationalisation and check their requirements, and Shell's new renamed product types carefully before buying as Shell are moving away from mineral oils and producing more semi synthetics due to world or market demands.
 
P, Cat recommend only 30 grade mineral oil for my 3126’s. Cat oil is rebadged Exol. I use Exol Marine 123, slightly more expensive than the base oil. Apparently synthetic oil is a no no in the oil stays clean between changes, so I will continue with this selection.
With respect to the suggestion to use Man oil in your engines, You will know that Man make engines, not oil. Man supplied oil will be rebadged re my Cat note above.
 
Thanks everybody, some interesting indications indeed.
Hearing that also Cummins suggest Shell in their courses, btw.
If nothing else, shows that the consensus I found among MAN engineers is not just a coincidence.
 
P, Cat recommend only 30 grade mineral oil for my 3126’s. Cat oil is rebadged Exol. I use Exol Marine 123, slightly more expensive than the base oil. Apparently synthetic oil is a no no in the oil stays clean between changes, so I will continue with this selection.
With respect to the suggestion to use Man oil in your engines, You will know that Man make engines, not oil. Man supplied oil will be rebadged re my Cat note above.
Yep P, I'm aware that Cat (and US folks in general) still recommend also monograde oil, which this side of the Pond is widely considered as obsolete for just about every application.
Anyhow, just FYI, I was recommended the Mobil Delvac MX 15W40 for my old 3116 (which were very similar to your 3126) by the chief engineer of Cat IT.
And it's a plain mineral oil anyway, even if as I said it stayed pretty clean for many hours...
 
Thanks everybody, some interesting indications indeed.
Hearing that also Cummins suggest Shell in their courses, btw.
If nothing else, shows that the consensus I found among MAN engineers is not just a coincidence.

Hi, Cummins sugest Valvoline™ Premium Blue™ is “The Only One”™
https://shopcummins.ca/collections/valvoline-premium-blue-oil


If a heavy truck can run a mineral oil with a long life cykle about 80 - 100 000km, then what do you think is beneficial to using semi-synthetic oil. Often consumers are tricked with "synthetic" oil, which is just cracked mineral oil (group 3), and no genuine 100% PAO (group 4) oil that is synthetic.
More info oil groups https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29113/base-oil-groups

In fact, I use mineral oil which meets the quality specified by Cummins and I've read Seaboard Marine (US) Tony had seen Cummins QSB engines, less the same as I have done regular maintenance for 18,500 hours without any special oils or of things ...

on the other a semi-synthetic oil, of course, works in your engine if it meets the your engine manufacturer's specifications for oil viscosity and API rating.

I would rather pay attention to using premium oil filter synthetic filter material that can capture accurately smaller particles than ordinary paper filters. For example, Donaldson blue or Fleetguard STRATAPORE oil filters.

https://www.donaldson.com/en-us/eng...e/replacement-filters/donaldson-blue-filters/

NBs
 
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Hi, Cummins sugest Valvoline™ Premium Blue™ is “The Only One”™
https://shopcummins.ca/collections/valvoline-premium-blue-oil
Now, that's interesting.
One should wonder why in Canada Cummins suggest something different from what their own instructors suggest wherever Piers attended their tech courses...
Btw, my understanding of American rules is that if manufacturers approve only one specific type/brand of oil (or any other fluids), they must supply it FoC.
Which is obviously a big reason for stating only the approved specs, rather than name names.
Then again, maybe this rule is only valid in the US and not in Canada, I'm not sure.
 
Now, that's interesting.
One should wonder why in Canada Cummins suggest something different from what their own instructors suggest wherever Piers attended their tech courses...

The 3 day tech course was at the Cummins factory, Daventry. Cummins recommendation at the time was Valvoline but when I needed it, none was available in the UK. Having emailed the Head of Traning, I received a reply from Central Area Cummins Customer Assistance Centre (Europe, Middle East, Africa and Russia) recommending Shell Rotella T which later changed names until it's now as previously stated.
 

I think it's easier to find other brands of oil than Valvoline, my Cummins QSB 380hp owner's handbook mentions Valvoline but naturally gives API CI-4 or beter rating and the ability to use all brand oil like Shell. In Finland, only one seller sales Valvoline Premium blue and tricky to buy, I use another brand.

I opted for the oil that I use additional criteria viscose index as high as possible, the ash value as small as possible and still TNB figure as high as possible and thus find me the best oil.

NBs
 
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Hmmm, MAN oil link says “Service intervals of up to 140.000 km”... That makes roughly 2800 engine hours. Then why do they recommend us to replace oil every year? Especially when most of us as pleasure craft users, do only 100 hours per year. Normally, according to what I see from several dimensions, I would easily change oil every 2 years. But of course I can't dare. However when I do oil change, the fishermen around start laughing and they take my “still gold colored” used oil to use at their boat engines. Well at least I don't need to carry them to the oil disposal tank:)

I would be glad to hear your comments.

PS: I am also using Shell Rimula semi-synthetic. All fine for now.
 
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