Inflatable boat valves stuck

[junksailor]

Just bought a Narwhal MR240 inflatable tender with dodgy valves x2. Hoping I can fix it.

Had a fiddle and it seems that the nylon shafts with spring attached which allows you to deflate the boat and which the rubber valve seal is attached to are sticking in the open position,

I am hoping I might be able to free them with some sort of lubricant, but don't want to use anything that might rot the valve.

What do you recommend? Has anyone else come accross this sort of problem?

Can I remove the core of the valve, it is attached to the part of the valve outer casing which remains in the inflatable if you undo the outer nut and seperate the two halves.

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[paulrossall]

Normally on inflatables the valves do lock open so you can deflate them. try turning them round, or push in and turn round, they should pop out into the closed position. I thought the valves on my Avon were broken until I discovered how they worked. Paul

<hr width=100% size=1>" there is nothing-absolutely nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats".

 

[junksailor]

Thanks Paul, looking in the valve from above, there is a cross shaped headed white plunger for deflating, the dust cap has a lug which I assume is for pushing this plunger. I Cant see this been designed to turn as you would need a tool to do this, long nosed pliers would do though.

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[boatless]

Try pushing/turning with your finger as Paul says, sounds just like most I've used.

John

<hr width=100% size=1>my opinion is complete rubbish, probably.

 

[peasea]

I have had same problem.You can deflate the boat by pushing a thin rod down inside the valve (to one side of the valve centre) to lift the valve plate off its seat.Hold the rod in place till the air is exhausted
The problem is caused because the bottom end of the white plastic relase stem has
broken off and dropped inside the boat. You need to buy a replacement valve kit for the inside of the valve. I think it costs a around £7 a valve.It is easy to do and
only takes a few minutes. If you need to know more e-mail me.

<hr width=100% size=1>PC

 

[junksailor]

Thanks, good advice all round, does one buy new stems at any good chandlery?

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[snowleopard]

the cross-shaped plunger is designed to lock in the open position for deflating by pressing in and turning. it should usually be possible to re-close it by pressing with the tip of the thumb and rotating 90 degrees, just like inserting or removing a light bulb. if it's a bit sticky, try GENTLY turning with long nosed pliers. if it's stuck in position it's probably just salt crystals & can be cleared with fresh water.

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[tritonofnor]

For parts try....

www.inflatable-boat-supplies.co.uk. They can supply most valve types.

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[longjohnsilver]

If you want to use any grease then it should be silicone, safe on rubber and waterproof. Best place to buy it is plumbers merchants, much, much cheaper then any marine supplier.

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[junksailor]

Thanks for all the sound advice, using long nosed pliers has done the trick. Bad news is that now I've also found about half a dozen leaks from the taped and stiched seams.

I'm fighting fires here!

Anyone repaired under taped seams successfully?

Buy cheap, buy twice I guess applies!

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[snowleopard]

unfortunately narwhals are made from pvc which has a life of around 10 years, beyond that you're pushing it. hypalon costs a lot more but goes on just about for ever.

if you are attempting to patch it up it's worth getting 2-part glue, it works MUCH better than the tube stuff. also, clamp the repair between 2 pieces of wood and leave for the full 24 hours, don't be tempted to try it a bit early.

another useful tip is to use patches of a different colour to the original, it makes it a lot less likely to get nicked!

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[StephenSails]

PVC fabric is fine if you look after it, the problem with the Narwhals is that they had a bad seam design and this is what goes normally, plus the glue is often a bit on the weak side.

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[peasea]

If you let me have your e-mail address I will send you pictures of the valve stripped down.

<hr width=100% size=1>PC

 

[Jools_of_Top_Cat]

I think that is the same dinghy as mine!

The valves should be light to operate, push in and turn cw to lock open, gentle pressure. And to pop out should be a gentle push and twist ccw.

Before I got my hard dinghy my narwhal was getting a right beating, one day I found a pinhole leak on the underside, my repair kit was obviously on board so getting there could have been a bit of a rush.

The only repair kit I could buy in Pwllheli at the time was for a yamaha dinghy, I repaired it the same way you would if it was a bike tyre. The kit said 24 hrs before using, I decided I would trust it after 30 minutes and redo the patch with the narwhal kit on board later.

Well, a year and a half later the same patch is in place and there is no leak still. Granted, I only use the dinghy now if cruising or at anchor, so it is not getting battered about, but even so, if it is a cheap dinghy you don't have a great deal to loose, I would lift the rubber seams and smear glue, prolly worth a clean off with MEK first, but depending upon your usage it will prolly work fine.

It is what I would do first, if you can see the holes, well like I said, I fixed mine on a slipway, so it is not that difficult, after all, the pressures involved when pumped up are tiny.

<hr width=100% size=1>J

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