Impeller VP TAMD41P

I'd try changing basket seals first. Worked for me. As per a previous post, to get rid of the airlock I fill the basket with water to prime it on launching. Then I feel the pump face plate once started. It should cool down and remain cold for a minute while the engine idles. If it appears to be warming up I gently crack the basket lid until a fine spray comes out and tighten again all while the engine is running. Hold a cloth below the lid as you do this to avoid saltwater landing on the alternator. Check faceplate again after a minutes steam.
 
I'd try changing basket seals first. Worked for me. As per a previous post, to get rid of the airlock I fill the basket with water to prime it on launching. Then I feel the pump face plate once started. It should cool down and remain cold for a minute while the engine idles. If it appears to be warming up I gently crack the basket lid until a fine spray comes out and tighten again all while the engine is running. Hold a cloth below the lid as you do this to avoid saltwater landing on the alternator. Check faceplate again after a minutes steam.
To be honest the price of the parts, if I could source them, would probably be the same as a replacement. And I’d still have a strainer that I couldn’t check without dismantling.

Greased the strainer lid and also put a plastic bag across the lid to act as an extra seal. It’s now pumping ok at low revs, I’ll see how it is when it’s in the water. Hopefully then back to normal.
 
First decent run out today following all the recent shenanigans. I had found some neoprene seal I’d bought for a hatch on my previous boat, managed to persuade it into the lid of the strainer with plenty of grease. Upshot, cooling system works perfectly, 2 hours at 3k rpm+ and stable 85^ temp. Just need to solve the the 38mm seatoilet outlet/35mm seacock hose tail conundrum now.
Thanks for replies and suggestions.
 
First decent run out today following all the recent shenanigans. I had found some neoprene seal I’d bought for a hatch on my previous boat, managed to persuade it into the lid of the strainer with plenty of grease. Upshot, cooling system works perfectly, 2 hours at 3k rpm+ and stable 85^ temp. Just need to solve the the 38mm seatoilet outlet/35mm seacock hose tail conundrum now.
Thanks for replies and suggestions.
Great news! Regarding "38mm seatoilet outlet/35mm seacock hose tail conundrum" either change the hosetail on the seacock or, as i did, use a 38 parallel plastic connector then a 38 to 35 silicone reducer sleeve from ebay.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
Great news! Regarding "38mm seatoilet outlet/35mm seacock hose tail conundrum" either change the hosetail on the seacock or, as i did, use a 38 parallel plastic connector then a 38 to 35 silicone reducer sleeve from ebay.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
Cheers for that, I’ve ordered the relevant bits from eBay along with a better quality Saniflex outlet hose. Any ideas on how to pump the shower drain? Does the bilge pump have a diverter valve I haven’t found yet?
 
Yep, mines the same. I can’t find another switch though, there is a push switch in the heads but it doesn’t seem to do anything.
That push switch is the one. Hold the button in to drain the shower water but it is in the same circuit as the freshwater pump so ensure that is turned on on the main switch panel.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
Here it is.
View attachment 144367
The vertical blue hose replaced the original black one so I could insert that T-piece to connect the blue hose that goes to the right to the thermostatic mixer valve I fitted. I now have a stable fixed temperature for a pleasant shower ?

www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
Thanks. My fresh water pump is not working. Is there a special switch to turn on only fresh water pump?
 
Thanks. My fresh water pump is not working. Is there a special switch to turn on only fresh water pump?
No, not on mine. If the shower drain pump is woking then the problem is not the power supply as they share that from the main switch panel. Down beyond the fresh water pump mine has a multiplug, difficult to see and reach but worth checking. You can just see the plug in my photo. Mine has a relay (the green cube in my picture) worth checking that too. Best to remove the pump for bench testing due to the restricted access. On one end of the pump there is a pressure switch incorporating a microswitch that may be faulty. Hope that helps.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
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