I'm Sorry, I Haven't A Clew Outhaul

[sniffyjenkins]

Dyneema soft shackle.

Strong as hell, super light, easy to attach/detach, no messing with lashing/unlashing. Make one yourself to the exact length you need, it's easy and incredibly satisfying. Splice a short Dyneema strop on to the boom (maybe include a s/s eye in the loop attached to the boom to head off any chafe) and use a soft shackle to attach the strop to the clew.

 

[JumbleDuck]

Dyneema soft shackle.

Strong as hell, super light, easy to attach/detach, no messing with lashing/unlashing. Make one yourself to the exact length you need, it's easy and incredibly satisfying. Splice a short Dyneema strop on to the boom (maybe include a s/s eye in the loop attached to the boom to head off any chafe) and use a soft shackle to attach the strop to the clew.

How would you tension it - removable handy billy?

 

[lw395]

I have started using my lovely new mainsail from Nicolson Hughes and I have realised that I really need to sort out my clew outhaul, because I haven't got one and the wee bit of rope I used before just doesn't tension the foot enough.

It's a Proctor boom; the end fitting has a a cast loop used for the topping lift and three sheaves of which two are used for the first slab reefing line (one pulley is missing) and one is therefore free. Here's a picture - I'd like to be able to get the clew half way from the position shown to the black band:

I could lash it with lots of turns of light line, but it would be a pain to release the tension, which I understand sails like when going downwind and resting. Small block-and-tackle arrangement using mini blocks, one with a jammer? Something bigger with a camcleat on the boom?

Any advice would be very welcome.

Is that a spare sheave position either side of the blue line?
The green line is a reef pennant?

I would run the outhaul from that spare sheave, through the cringle, then fix the end, perhaps knotting the fixed end in the other spare sheave? Or even take it down to the eye on the bottom of the casting.
That gives you 2:1 which should work well enough if you use a shiny dyneema or similar.
The moving end could come out of the boom anywhere near the front, to a tackle with a cleat.
Obviously don't cut holes near the highly stressed kicker area.

 

[Hydrozoan]

That's looking like a definite possibility ... but where to attach it to the boom? The casting to which the topping lift is attached is quite sharp edged and I'm a wee bit wary in any case of loading it even more than it is.

Can one get - or make - an eye that fits in the slot of the boom?

 

[JumbleDuck]

Is that a spare sheave position either side of the blue line?
The green line is a reef pennant?

Yes and yes. The blue line is normally tied round the further spare sheave, but the nearer one is unused. All three clutches at the mast end of the boom are used, though.

I would run the outhaul from that spare sheave, through the cringle, then fix the end, perhaps knotting the fixed end in the other spare sheave? Or even take it down to the eye on the bottom of the casting.
That gives you 2:1 which should work well enough if you use a shiny dyneema or similar.
The moving end could come out of the boom anywhere near the front, to a tackle with a cleat.
Obviously don't cut holes near the highly stressed kicker area.

Hmm. That's an interesting idea. I could even use a purchase alongside the boom to give me 2:1 there. I'm a bit nervous of cutting slots in the boom, though.

Can one get - or make - an eye that fits in the slot of the boom?

Definitely worth checking. Seldén would be the people to ask, I presume, since they took over Proctor.

 

[Major_Clanger]

That's looking like a definite possibility ... but where to attach it to the boom? The casting to which the topping lift is attached is quite sharp edged and I'm a wee bit wary in any case of loading it even more than it is. It may well have to be that, of course.

Why not use the topping lift shackle? It'll keep the lashing out the way of the reefing lines and provide a smooth surface, at least pro-tem while you consider something neater.

 

[lw395]

If getting the line out near the front of the boom is a problem, you could run the whole thing externally.
You could mount a cheek block on the boom behind the black band.
The limitation is the size of the block and how far out you want to be able to pull the clew.
For a bodge to get going, just run the outhual through that nice shiny shackle. 4mm dyneema will be plenty strong and will run around that OK.
It won't quarrel with the reef line as both don't need to be tight at once. Another shackle alongside might be more elegant.
Run the outhaul forwards to a small tackle with a jamming block as used on the kicker of old-skool dinghies?

If you don't like tackles, some 12 metres used to adjust the sail foot by extending the gooseneck with a hydraulic ram.....

 

[JumbleDuck]

If getting the line out near the front of the boom is a problem, you could run the whole thing externally.
You could mount a cheek block on the boom behind the black band.
The limitation is the size of the block and how far out you want to be able to pull the clew.
For a bodge to get going, just run the outhual through that nice shiny shackle. 4mm dyneema will be plenty strong and will run around that OK.
It won't quarrel with the reef line as both don't need to be tight at once. Another shackle alongside might be more elegant.
Run the outhaul forwards to a small tackle with a jamming block as used on the kicker of old-skool dinghies?

Sounds as if dyneema is going to be involved somehow!

If you don't like tackles, some 12 metres used to adjust the sail foot by extending the gooseneck with a hydraulic ram.....

I have a garage full of Citroën DS bits, so I could get improvisational. My Nanni warranty is invalid if I add further ancillaries, though, so they might get unhappy at a hydraulic pump. Clearly the solution is toput my crew on an adapted bicycle, à la America's Cup.

 

[lw395]

Sounds as if dyneema is going to be involved somehow!


.....

A few m of dyneema would be well spent, as a stretchy outhaul works against you.

I think in the big boats before the J's they used to send a chap out along the boom to adjust the outhaul?

 

[lampshuk]

...It is a pretty simple operation that can usually be done from the safety of the cockpit. ....

As Arthur Dent would say: "this is clearly a use of the word "safe" of which I was previously unaware" ...

Of course, it's up to you, and is probably rather boat-dependent. Personally, I prefer not to stand up on the cockpit seat at full stretch doing a fiddly 2-handed job while being thrashed with a large expanse of heavy dacron attached to a long alloy stick propelled by 30Kts+ of wind.

...it is the work of a moment to swap the former 1st reef to the 3rd reef point

It might take "a moment" if the 1st reef hasn't been used multiple times under high tension.
Again, my experience (and maybe setup) clearly differs from yours.

 

[lw395]

I've only sailed on one boat where the third reef was permanently rigged.
A nightmare of string prone to tangles.
Because it was never used, the clutch had seized.
3rd reef on most yachts is a serious lot of wind.
We normally reeve the first reef pennant into the 3rd reef cringle when we put the second reef in, unless we are sure it's not going to be needed.
There is a loop of 2mm shock cord running between the cringles. This is used to pull the end of the pennant to the third cringle.
If the whipping on the end of the pennant has a loop on it to pull it through, it's quite easy to do.

 

[Robin]

We had a 3 reef 2 line system on a large FB sail with all 3 reefs in place, plus a flattener., 14 clutches in all All reefs could be done from the cockpit by one person. One clutch was for the roller genoa mind and genoa and spinnaker halyards were done at the mast with 2 more clutches there. Flattener however was done at the mast but no sweat in the conditions it was ever needed.

 

[[163233]]

Some kind of highfield lever?

Adds a ruddy great hunk of metal at the end of the boom but it'd give you a nice technical looking gadget.

 

[bbg]

Looks like you don't have a loose-footed main. Too bad. Normal way to run a reef line would be from the block in the end of the boom, up through the cringle and then down to the boom with a bowline around the boom. So the clew of the main is pulled tight down to the boom and also aft.

For your outhaul problem, if I were in your shoes I would probably use a very light dyneema line. Maybe 3 mm, no cover so it is slippery. I would add another small shackle to the end of the boom, dedicated to the outhaul. Then splice an eye in the dyneema and do a cow hitch around the end fitting, not the shackle (that keeps the shackle free of one line, giving more space to use it as a block).

Run the dyneema through the clew and then shackle, which gives you 2:1. If it doesn't bind, run it through a second time giving 4:1. Then forward along the boom (half way or so? somewhere you can access it easily) to a cam cleat on the boom. You might want one or two guide eyes along the way.

But really, you should sort it out by replacing the missing sheaves and using them properly. The right way to do that would be to use the centre sheave for the outhaul, and if you are missing clutches on your cabin top that is no big deal. Run the line (still very small) from the outhaul to the centre sheave and out the front of the boom. Once it comes out and is on deck you can rig up a purchase on the deck that gives you as much power as you need, then lead it to a cam cleat on deck. Don't need another clutch.

 

[JumbleDuck]

But really, you should sort it out by replacing the missing sheaves and using them properly. The right way to do that would be to use the centre sheave for the outhaul, and if you are missing clutches on your cabin top that is no big deal. Run the line (still very small) from the outhaul to the centre sheave and out the front of the boom.

The front of the boom is wholly taken up with a gooseneck fitting which incorporates three clutches; there is no scope to take a line out there. Thanks for the suggestions, though - I think that long term it might makes sense to add another exit somewhere along the boom.

 

[KAL]

For what it's worth, I have exactly the same boom. Sniffy has good advice.

I had a new main made last year and went for loose-footed, having been rope-footed with the previous. I also have three reefs rigged. The centre sheave is reef one, and the two on either side are reefs 2 and 3.

I rigged a pair of small blocks to act as outhaul, and attached this to the arch at the top of the end-boom casting.

Learned a hard lesson when, half way across to Roscoff from Dartmouth, the casting gave way with a huge bang. It just couldn't take the tension. I strongly suggest that you DON'T, therefore, attach your outhaul to this arch.

Jury-rigged a soft shackle (home made!) through the BOTTOM loop of the end-casting (where the main sheet attaches), brought it to the top of the boom and attached a clever all-in-one stainless pulley system with jammer, bought in the chandlery at Roscoff, which has been in place ever since, very successfully.

You get plenty of tension when you need it and it's very easy to let it off when you don't.

I've never been able to work out what the side-pulleys on the end of the boom are for. They aren't rigged at the right angle to act as reef-sheaves. Maybe they could be used to rig an outhaul (like a bridle).

 

[JimC]

This is my first season with an adjustable outhaul as I've had my maisail chamged to loose footed (it didn't have a shelf foot). For the outhaul I used the rope previously used for the flattening reef which goes through the boom and back to a winch and clutch. Early days yet but I think the control of sail shape with a powerful outhaul is worth having. I can move the draft forward to about 1/3 way down the sail rather than nearer 1/2 way as it was amd still flatten the sail when meeded - I haven't missed the flattener. If I' m being over pressed I'll go straight to the first reef. So my advice to the OP would be to put some power into the outhaul whether by cascaded blocks or taking it back to a winch.

 

[Quandary]

It seems simple to me, certainly with a nice new loose footed main you really do need to adjust the outhaul, (and ease it readily when you take the sail down). But tensioning an outhaul does not need a lot of force so a securing eye one side of the aft end of the boom and a cheek block on the other will be enough, if you run the line along the boom a bit to a clam cleat in a reachable position that makes it easy to sweat it if you ever have to. Remember, you will be adjusting the outhaul when you are hoisting the main so no great stress involved and the next adjustment need not be made until you are either coming off the wind, before hardening up, or before lowering the sails none of which are situations of great difficulty, after all it not an enormous sail. You just need to remember to do it and to learn the amount of movement for varying conditions so that you can put in the stretch before the tension goes on.
Our outhaul comes back from the mast foot through a clutch to a winch without any purchase, we adjust it simply by pulling on it, the winch is rarely, if ever, needed.

 

[Seajet]

Any talk of reefing from the boom end is literally misguided.

I do have the clew outhaul adjustable from the cockpit as I like pulling strings, being an Osprey sailor.

The reefing lines on a yacht need to be placed in succession along the boom at around 45 degrees so as to give a downwards and aftwards pull; this is best sorted when the main is on the boom - the aftwards pull to give a flat sail in strong winds is essential,

I have three reefs as well but have only used two even in a F11 with storm jib - having the sail on the boom so one can measure where the reef cringles are is critical as to placing the reefing blocks and eyes on the opposite side - .

Top Tip; your boat and sails are not that much bigger than mine, I have ball bearing blocks throughout inc on the boom and deck organisers, these reduce friction hugely and change things from ' winch required ' to ' simple pull with one hand ' - though as a fellow sort of Scot they were ouchy expensive, but a one off !

 

[JumbleDuck]

For what it's worth, I have exactly the same boom. Sniffy has good advice.

I had a new main made last year and went for loose-footed, having been rope-footed with the previous. I also have three reefs rigged. The centre sheave is reef one, and the two on either side are reefs 2 and 3.

How do the reefing lines run after they leave the sheaves?

I rigged a pair of small blocks to act as outhaul, and attached this to the arch at the top of the end-boom casting.

Learned a hard lesson when, half way across to Roscoff from Dartmouth, the casting gave way with a huge bang. It just couldn't take the tension. I strongly suggest that you DON'T, therefore, attach your outhaul to this arch.

That was precisely my worry, now confirmed!

Jury-rigged a soft shackle (home made!) through the BOTTOM loop of the end-casting (where the main sheet attaches), brought it to the top of the boom and attached a clever all-in-one stainless pulley system with jammer, bought in the chandlery at Roscoff, which has been in place ever since, very successfully.

That lower loop is certainly crying out to be used for something.

I've never been able to work out what the side-pulleys on the end of the boom are for. They aren't rigged at the right angle to act as reef-sheaves. Maybe they could be used to rig an outhaul (like a bridle).

They work very nicely for my 2nd and 3rd reefing lines. Each leaves its sheaves, runs along horizontally just under the slot in the boom, turns up through a fitting in the slot which looks a bit like a Mirror jib fairlead ...

... up the sail, through the cringle and then down to a loop in the slot under the boom. Adjusting the position of "fairlead" and loop allows the ratio of downhaul to outhaul to be adjusted.

It seems simple to me, certainly with a nice new loose footed main you really do need to adjust the outhaul, (and ease it readily when you take the sail down). But tensioning an outhaul does not need a lot of force so a securing eye one side of the aft end of the boom and a cheek block on the other will be enough, if you run the line along the boom a bit to a clam cleat in a reachable position that makes it easy to sweat it if you ever have to.

That would certainly be simple, but in view of the fairly short length of boom involved it would inevitable pull the clew down towards the boom almost as much as it pulled it out along the boom, which doesn't seem quite right.

I think my current front runner as something I can implement easily on the water is a low friction ring anchored to the spare sheave, maybe with one of these

and then a 3mm dyneema lashing between that and the clew ring. Long term will probably be another line inside the boom and a machined exit slot for it.