If no power, how do I bypass the gas solenoid?

tudorsailor

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I have a solenoid for the gas. So in order to cook, the power needs to be on. It occurred to me that if for some reason, I had no power, I would not be able to cook. I would have gas in the bottles but the solenoid would stop the supply.

How would I get around this? Is there a way to force the solenoid to "open"?

TudorSailor
 
You need a short length of pipe that mimics the fittings on the solenoid. Then remove the non working solenoid and fit the 'by-pass'.

Mine however has a rubber hose on both sides so I can simply unclip and shorten up to get a cup of tea.
 
I have a solenoid for the gas. So in order to cook, the power needs to be on. It occurred to me that if for some reason, I had no power, I would not be able to cook. I would have gas in the bottles but the solenoid would stop the supply.

How would I get around this? Is there a way to force the solenoid to "open"?

TudorSailor

I'm probably taking this a bit too literally ....... but if I had no power and no way of generating any power e.g by starting the engine, I suspect that the last thing I'd be thinking about would be a nice hot meal. :ambivalence:

Richard
 
I was stimulated to ask the question on reading about a family sailing in the Pacific who lost all power. So no instruments, no autopilot and no toilets (as they were all electric!). They took several days to get to an island. I am sure they would have like to have hot food.

TS
 
Ours was installed with a bypass manual valve. I can make tea with a power problem, or if I have disconnected it. Ours is part of a safe system and will not open if the sensors have clogged which they do when there is no problems. SWMBO insisted on this level of safety but will not buy replacement sensors each season and fit them.
 
Ours was installed with a bypass manual valve. I can make tea with a power problem, or if I have disconnected it. Ours is part of a safe system and will not open if the sensors have clogged which they do when there is no problems. SWMBO insisted on this level of safety but will not buy replacement sensors each season and fit them.

A manual by-pass seems a good idea. I might see how easy it is to retro-fit

TS
 
My solenoid valve has a small plastic lever which, if rotated 90°, opens the valve. It came as part of the Pilot gas alarm set-up, so if you have that it might be worth having a look. I persevered with the gas alarm for years before giving up on it: over-delicate sensors, numerous false alarms, and more than one flat battery. I now control the solenoid with a switch near the cooker with a flashing LED to remind me that it's on - far simpler.
 
My solenoid packed-up on day while on passage, so I just bypassed it (simple case of removing pipes and re-making).
 
My solenoid valve has a small plastic lever which, if rotated 90°, opens the valve. It came as part of the Pilot gas alarm set-up, so if you have that it might be worth having a look. I persevered with the gas alarm for years before giving up on it: over-delicate sensors, numerous false alarms, and more than one flat battery. I now control the solenoid with a switch near the cooker with a flashing LED to remind me that it's on - far simpler.

Hi. Just reading this now but fed up of suffering for 2 years now. Now it just keeps going off even when switched off & on. I even ensured that thew sensors where well ventilated. No sign off moisture in the area.

Can you Pleeeeeease tell us what you did, how you did it and what you need to get?

What would you do if it doesn't have a switch on the solenoid?

Kindest regards
 
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