I seem to have a leaking exhaust pipe from diesel heater

[Karlsenkystfiske]

My boat, and heater is 13 years old now. When the wind blows against the outlet I get a bit of smoke coming out from the insulation tube covering the corrugated, stainless exhaust hose. The leak must be somewhere up in the upwards bend, as I can see or feel none along the end connections. I thought these hoses were supposed to be quality stuff that one did not have to worry about, but I seem to have been wrong? Do you guys know if there is biig quality differences among producers and what stores that peddle the good products? Now that I am about to change I would like to invest in something that will never fail me


The corrosion colouring on the hose is from the old hose clamp that was rusty. The hose itself does not appear to have any corrosion going on.

 

[Halo]

All stainless can rust if it’s not given an occasional wipe or polish especially if a layer of dirt or salt builds up. Looks like some condensation is running down the paint- is this coming through the pipe or forming on it ?
To be honest if it was mine I would replace the hose and outlet before even thinking about replacing the whole thing. No guarantee anything else will be good after 13 years let alone a lifetime.
Two things are clear
- don’t use it until you are sure no products of combustion are coming in to the boat
- make sure you fit a carbon monoxide alarm

 

[vyv_cox]

You don't say what heater is fitted. Chinese heaters come with the thinnest exhaust hose that will hold together. Better hose can be purchased.

 

[earlybird]

The heater shown is a Wallas; seen as high quality, but no guarantee that the installation was good of course. I can't work out how the exhaust is routed. The Wallas system is to have the exhaust pipe internally co-axial with the combustion air inlet pipe. The two connect at a special external inlet / exhaust fitting. Any exhaust leak should be drawn back into the heater inlet. If smoke is appearing in the cabin, then something's badly wrong. I'd suggest that the installation should be checked for compliance with Wallas's fitting instructions.

 

[Karlsenkystfiske]

You don't say what heater is fitted. Chinese heaters come with the thinnest exhaust hose that will hold together. Better hose can be purchased.

I thought the picture would explain that part.

All stainless can rust if it’s not given an occasional wipe or polish especially if a layer of dirt or salt builds up. Looks like some condensation is running down the paint- is this coming through the pipe or forming on it ?
To be honest if it was mine I would replace the hose and outlet before even thinking about replacing the whole thing. No guarantee anything else will be good after 13 years let alone a lifetime.
Two things are clear
- don’t use it until you are sure no products of combustion are coming in to the boat
- make sure you fit a carbon monoxide alarm

I am definitely getting a CO alarm! I am not sure about the condensation. Never seen any smoke coming from there. It is mall coming downwards along the insulation.

 

[Karlsenkystfiske]

The heater shown is a Wallas; seen as high quality, but no guarantee that the installation was good of course. I can't work out how the exhaust is routed. The Wallas system is to have the exhaust pipe internally co-axial with the combustion air inlet pipe. The two connect at a special external inlet / exhaust fitting. Any exhaust leak should be drawn back into the heater inlet. If smoke is appearing in the cabin, then something's badly wrong. I'd suggest that the installation should be checked for compliance with Wallas's fitting instructions.

Inlet ait and exhaust from the same fitting? That does not make much sense. This one seems to just push out exhaust from the fitting on the top, into a pretty ordinary stainless hose. I dont believe any air is being sucked in there.
Might be worth mentioning that I had the whole unit serviced by a professional earlier this year.

 

[earlybird]

Ok, I was describing a model of Wallas heater that I had in my boat, seems yours has a different arrangement. If I needed spares I bought from Kuranda in the UK, they supplied good quality stuff.

 

[Karlsenkystfiske]

@earlybird : this hose might be for the system you are refering to?
Does anyone have experience with these drainage locks? Seems to be just the thing I need for my cooker. The goose neck for that one is not tall enough, so sometimes the exhaust tube on the other side will fill up with water.

 

[Karlsenkystfiske]

So I ordered new hose and drainage locks. But how the hell am I going to get the new hose through the goose neck? Insulation and all. Surely there must be some spesific method to it?

 

[Seastoke]

Looking at your image of the flex hose it is far to close to the plywood , which could burn at that temperature.

 

[ChromeDome]

It might be an idea to check the installation instructions. Heaters in boats have different requirements than in cars/campers, not least in regards to draining condensation from the exhaust. Also, if the metering pump is running too much diesel through (e.g. priming after running dry etc.), such diesel will end up in the exhaust and need to be drained out.

Silencers for cars are meant to be mounted outside and allow for draining by a small opening. These silencers however have no place in boats (presume they'll be fitting inboard).

 

[simonfraser]

the wallas heater shown on the right, pic 1, has the exhaust exiting upwards from the top of the unit, where does that go ?

the swan neck on the left is part of what ?

 

[Karlsenkystfiske]

Looking at your image of the flex hose it is far to close to the plywood , which could burn at that temperature.

Been good for 13 years. I dont think it will start to become a problem now. No signs of browning either.

the wallas heater shown on the right, pic 1, has the exhaust exiting upwards from the top of the unit, where does that go ?

the swan neck on the left is part of what ?

Oh, I just relized that the picture was not very explanatory! Thank you for that
As you hopefuly can see in this picture, it goes in through the black insulated hose, and then up and away in a goose neck. If I pull it all out I fear that I will never get a new one in place whitout cutting the boat apart^^

 

[Karlsenkystfiske]

It might be an idea to check the installation instructions. Heaters in boats have different requirements than in cars/campers, not least in regards to draining condensation from the exhaust. Also, if the metering pump is running too much diesel through (e.g. priming after running dry etc.), such diesel will end up in the exhaust and need to be drained out.

Silencers for cars are meant to be mounted outside and allow for draining by a small opening. These silencers however have no place in boats (presume they'll be fitting inboard).

Yeah, I suspect condensation is the reason the hose has gone bad. So when redoing it I am fitting a drain! Will do the same for the wallas stovetop. On the exhaust from that you can see rust on the outside, and I have drained it a couple of times by disconnecting it from the stovetop.

 

[simonfraser]

hm, that is a long exhaust, when i recently installed mine there was a max length quoted

i sent mine straight out, now a tad shorter and insulation above and fan blowing sideways when on:

 

[ChromeDome]

The drain normally is made by drilling a hole in the stainless tube at its lowest point. It will then drip into the bilge or whatever is beneath it.

If interested look up this guy on Youtube

especially part 16 about installation on a boat

 

[Karlsenkystfiske]

Drilling a hole would also permit smoke to escape. I am contemplating putting in of these badboys.

 

[[193211]]

Exhaust has a maximum angle it can be turned through. 270 for the Ebers, etc.

On the concentric hose, is the outer securely attached to the skin fitting?

 

[ChromeDome]

Drilling a hole would also permit smoke to escape. I am contemplating putting in of these badboys.

The recommended Youtube part 16 shows this one

Seems expensive, alternatives exist/can be made.

 

[ChromeDome]

Exhaust has a maximum angle it can be turned through. 270 for the Ebers, etc.

On the concentric hose, is the outer securely attached to the skin fitting?

Yes, the sum of angles' degrees is max 270.

However, if using a larger hose diameter and/or non corrugated tubes, it may mitigate the overheating issue (quoting the mentioned John McK).