Hustler 35 with hanked-on foresails

Basically most furlers will be fine if installed correctly.

I have Plastimo on one boat ... fine.

Furlex on another .... again fine ...

A previous boat had a Profurl .... again fine ...

As long as the furler is installed properly, used in manner designed, has the sail to suit ... and in fact many hinked on sails can be slightly modified to be used without need to but new ... its fine.

Padded luffs etc are fine - but not essential ..... sheeting angles can be easily sorted by use of 'barber hauler' ....

The reduction of size from those huge 1970's ... 1980's foresails is often an advantage not only in handling (and of course furling) - but often leads to a better feel on the helm ... that area aft of mast often adds to weather-helm.
 
Basically most furlers will be fine if installed correctly.

I have Plastimo on one boat ... fine.

Furlex on another .... again fine ...

A previous boat had a Profurl .... again fine ...

As long as the furler is installed properly, used in manner designed, has the sail to suit ... and in fact many hinked on sails can be slightly modified to be used without need to but new ... its fine.

Padded luffs etc are fine - but not essential ..... sheeting angles can be easily sorted by use of 'barber hauler' ....

The reduction of size from those huge 1970's ... 1980's foresails is often an advantage not only in handling (and of course furling) - but often leads to a better feel on the helm ... that area aft of mast often adds to weather-helm.
While not essential, I think a padded luff is worth having, at least judging from the sails I’ve carried. My current laminate jib has rope as an insert instead of foam, as being less prone to mould.
 
While not essential, I think a padded luff is worth having, at least judging from the sails I’ve carried. My current laminate jib has rope as an insert instead of foam, as being less prone to mould.

Depends on how 'full' a body of the sail you have / want ... I prefer a flatter cut sail than most to avoid that baggy look that mains and fore's often have when not hard on ..

As to Laminate sails ... UGH !!! Devils sails for average cruising use .. My 38 Cruiser racer has Laminate sails .. I HATE THEM with a vengence. My other two sailboats have standard Dacron - a joy to handle.
 
Depends on how 'full' a body of the sail you have / want ... I prefer a flatter cut sail than most to avoid that baggy look that mains and fore's often have when not hard on ..

As to Laminate sails ... UGH !!! Devils sails for average cruising use .. My 38 Cruiser racer has Laminate sails .. I HATE THEM with a vengence. My other two sailboats have standard Dacron - a joy to handle.
For a few years before they go out of shape. I have had laminate jibs for 22 years, the first lasting abut twelve years and the second still in good order, and the ability to maintain the right shape in all winds has been my real joy. As far as I can see, if you look after them and don’t let them flog they will go on working long after a Dacron has turned into a potato sack. The choice will differ between boats and cruising usage of course, but for me there was no comparison.
 
We have a Hustler 35 with roller reefing. Old but so far reliable... I am pretty sure it is not the 130% genny as originally specified. Clew comes to just aft of the shrouds. Should not be hard to roll in/out if set up right.

I have copies of the original plans, and will be back at the boat again soon, can measure the bottom of our penny. But a sailmaker should be able to advise you better than me.

Which H35 do you have? :-)

www.hustler35.org
 
For a few years before they go out of shape. I have had laminate jibs for 22 years, the first lasting abut twelve years and the second still in good order, and the ability to maintain the right shape in all winds has been my real joy. As far as I can see, if you look after them and don’t let them flog they will go on working long after a Dacron has turned into a potato sack. The choice will differ between boats and cruising usage of course, but for me there was no comparison.
I was chatting to a sailmaker the other day (Suffolk Sails, Woodbridge) and he was saying that for anything other then racing, he would recommend a tri-radial Dacron headsail and a laminate main, though unhelpfully I can’t remember his reasoning as I was a bit out of my depth.
While he was repairing my 135% genoa, I put the 155% genny back on my boat - and can heartily agree with the general gist of this thread. That big sail was hard work, and not noticeably better than the 135% in light airs, at least to this bumbling operative.
 
For a few years before they go out of shape. I have had laminate jibs for 22 years, the first lasting abut twelve years and the second still in good order, and the ability to maintain the right shape in all winds has been my real joy. As far as I can see, if you look after them and don’t let them flog they will go on working long after a Dacron has turned into a potato sack. The choice will differ between boats and cruising usage of course, but for me there was no comparison.

You are welcome to come play on my 38 with its laminate sails .... and I am confident that after a few hoists and drops of that mainsail - you will be similar mind as I .... foresail is on Furlex - so not too bad ...
 
You are welcome to come play on my 38 with its laminate sails .... and I am confident that after a few hoists and drops of that mainsail - you will be similar mind as I .... foresail is on Furlex - so not too bad ...
My jib is laminate but the main is Hydranet. That itself is a fair bit heavier than the old Dacron ones, and I agree, I wouldn’t choose a laminate main, but the jib furls well, even easier than the original Dacron.
 
My jib is laminate but the main is Hydranet. That itself is a fair bit heavier than the old Dacron ones, and I agree, I wouldn’t choose a laminate main, but the jib furls well, even easier than the original Dacron.
Why not a laminate main? My main is Hyde Fibrecon, fully battened. It is a big improvement on the Hyde Marblehead racing dacron, which I replaced after 6 years. Or the East Sails dacron main which was c..p as dacron soon loses its shape.
Although on my boat with a self tacking jib, I might be biased, as the main is a greater driving force.
The current Laminate ST jib has lasted twice as long as the 3 dacron ST jibs in the 21 years I have had the boat
 
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Padded luffs etc are fine - but not essential ..... sheeting angles can be easily sorted by use of 'barber hauler' ....

....
To my mind a foam/ rope luff is absolutely essential. Highly improves sail shape when reefed.
It has nothing to do with sheeting angle, but compensates for the fact that the sail is thicker at the edges, leech and foot, due to extra layers of cloth. Without it the thinnner cloth at centre rolls more tightly and hence goes baggy.
Standard fit on our North jib.
 
Why not a laminate main? My main is Hyde Fibrecon, fully battened. It is a big improvement on the Hyde Marblehead racing dacron, which I replaced after 6 years. Or the East Sails dacron main which was c..p as dacron soon loses its shape.
Although on my boat with a self tacking jib, I might be biased, as the main is a greater driving force.
The current Laminate ST jib has lasted twice as long as the 3 dacron ST jibs in the 21 years I have had the boat
My jib is 110% and I was following the sailmaker’s advice re the main. It was a few years ago now but I think that cost was part of the equation as I was buying both sails. I have no experience of flaking a laminate main down, but I imagine it takes a bit more care, probably OK with a stackpack but I only have lazyjacks. I’m glad we agree about the potential durability of laminates since that is one of the arguments often made against them.
 
To my mind a foam/ rope luff is absolutely essential. Highly improves sail shape when reefed.
It has nothing to do with sheeting angle, but compensates for the fact that the sail is thicker at the edges, leech and foot, due to extra layers of cloth. Without it the thinnner cloth at centre rolls more tightly and hence goes baggy.
Standard fit on our North jib.

Foam luffs are to counter the fullness of the sails cut ... because the sail is not flat .....

As the sail is part furled to achieve 'reff' ... the sheeing angle can in fact solve most of the poor shape ... and a 'barber hauler' gives that extra range to counter the poor shape .....
 
Foam luffs are to counter the fullness of the sails cut ... because the sail is not flat .....

As the sail is part furled to achieve 'reff' ... the sheeing angle can in fact solve most of the poor shape ... and a 'barber hauler' gives that extra range to counter the poor shape .....
See my post #30. Even if cut entirely flat, the sail.is thicker at the edges due to the multiple layers - reinforcing plus uv strip. Hence, it takes up less in the middle unless it has foam luff. Try with a flat piece of material and get the same result.
We adjust the jib cars frequently , but doesn't take the bagginess out if not foam luff.
(And like chiara slave, a great believer when going upwind to winch jib tight - then a lot tighter. Most boats you see the jib / genoa is massively too slack, and the main too tight)
 
A lot can be done by having a higher clew. The foot then does not bunch so much when furling because the furls sit further up the foil as they are wound on the foil rather than in one point. This then means more of the middle body comes in in relation to the foot & leach because the foot & leech furl slower as they are not sitting on lots of preceeding furls
 
See my post #30. Even if cut entirely flat, the sail.is thicker at the edges due to the multiple layers - reinforcing plus uv strip. Hence, it takes up less in the middle unless it has foam luff. Try with a flat piece of material and get the same result.
We adjust the jib cars frequently , but doesn't take the bagginess out if not foam luff.
(And like chiara slave, a great believer when going upwind to winch jib tight - then a lot tighter. Most boats you see the jib / genoa is massively too slack, and the main too tight)

Strange that I have two boats of vastly different specs - with furlers .... no foam luffs ..... and manage to furl in stages without problem.

You are the first and only person I have ever heard such explanation from ... and I knew and know today quite a few Sailmakers ... never heard such from them ... they ALL said due to the CUT of the sail .....
In fact it was a sailmaker in UK that I was friendly with who expanded my knowledge of the sheet / hauler info ....

Funny that ...
 
We have a Hustler 35 with roller reefing. Old but so far reliable... I am pretty sure it is not the 130% genny as originally specified. Clew comes to just aft of the shrouds. Should not be hard to roll in/out if set up right.

I have copies of the original plans, and will be back at the boat again soon, can measure the bottom of our penny. But a sailmaker should be able to advise you better than me.

Which H35 do you have? :-)

www.hustler35.org
Hi - I have a Hustler 35 too! I can't send a PM as am too new to the forum but would be interested to hear from you and the OP - need to replace my (> 30 years old) furling genoa at some point.
 
I had a sailspar on my previous boat - good furler with excellent service from Sailspar - the only problem I found when furling was getting the rope onto the cleat. Solved when I saw a Rutgerson Clutch being demonstrated - an endless line can be be fitted as a side is removable. Just pull on the line and it locks making furling very easy. Fitted a Lewmar clutch on my current boat.
 
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