How to wire and external socket for an Auto Tiller?

[Willham]

Hi all. New to the forum, and also a first time boat owner (although long time sailor). I've recently bought a Sadler 25, and as I'll be mostly single-handing, I have bought a Simrad TP10 auto-tiller to help out on longer passages. I'll be pressing it in to action to get the boat back from Cowes to it's new and somewhat less glamorous home on the Medway. However, I first need to install the device. For the most part it seems reasonably straightforward, but the bit that bothers me is the installation of the external power socket required for the TP. I am an utter dunce when it comes to most things of a DIY nature, but particularly where electrics are concerned. Any guidance on how this should be wired in to the switch panel would be much appreciated!

 

[john_morris_uk]

Hi all. New to the forum, and also a first time boat owner (although long time sailor). I've recently bought a Sadler 25, and as I'll be mostly single-handing, I have bought a Simrad TP10 auto-tiller to help out on longer passages. I'll be pressing it in to action to get the boat back from Cowes to it's new and somewhat less glamorous home on the Medway. However, I first need to install the device. For the most part it seems reasonably straightforward, but the bit that bothers me is the installation of the external power socket required for the TP. I am an utter dunce when it comes to most things of a DIY nature, but particularly where electrics are concerned. Any guidance on how this should be wired in to the switch panel would be much appreciated!

It needs to come from a circuit that’s fused or has a circuit breaker appropriately rated for the cables supplying it.

You’ll need a waterproof plug and socket installed in the cockpit. (You’ll also need to ensure that the geometry of fitting is correct.)

I’ve used bulgin hardware recently and found it very very good but you’ll need some soldering skills. I also try to only use tinned copper multi strand wire. (You’ll need to check the size is appropriate too. )

 

[Tranona]

Wire it to an unused fused switch at the panel - if you have one, or to a circuit that might be labled "navigation". Difficult to advise specifically without knowing exactly how your distriburion panel is laid out.

However the alternative is to hard wire it direct to the service battery so it will always be live. Make sure you fuse the cable close to the battery.

 

[john_morris_uk]

PS. Welcome to the forums.

 

[Willham]

Thanks for the responses all. This is my panel - I guess I would wire to the Nav switch as suggested above, as I don't have any spares? I hadn't anticipated soldering, but I guess that's the only way. I guess in the short term, I could connect direct to the battery to get me home, and then do a proper installation when I get the time. As my boat is currently on a pontoon berth up Folly Creek on Cowes, I have no mains power to plug a soldering iron in to in any case.

 

[Tranona]

That is a very smart panel. Normally switches have crimped terminals rather than soldered. However I guess that Nav circuit is likely to have a number of instruments controlled by it so there will be some form of distribution board for the individual instruments. Various ways of tapping into that circuit, but probably better to hard wire to the battery for now so that the pilot works and then figure out a better way when you have time to work through and understand the system.

 

[john_morris_uk]

That is a very smart panel. Normally switches have crimped terminals rather than soldered. However I guess that Nav circuit is likely to have a number of instruments controlled by it so there will be some form of distribution board for the individual instruments. Various ways of tapping into that circuit, but probably better to hard wire to the battery for now so that the pilot works and then figure out a better way when you have time to work through and understand the system.

Agreed. However it’s the bulgin waterproof plugs and sockets for the cockpit end that need soldering.

You can get 12v soldering irons. Gas ones are available too. Or put your mains one in the flame of your gas cooker to heat it up and then solder each joint quickly before it cools down.

 

[john_morris_uk]

+1 for the very smart panel.

We had a Sadler 25 once (called Gem) with a Petter mini twin engine. Lovely little boat that sailed really well.

 

[Willham]

One more question on this subject - as my boat is 3-4 hours away from me, I'll need to turn up on the day I fit the TP with everything I need to complete the job, however as I don't know the exact measurements of the boat, I don't know whether a pushrod extension will be required or not, and if so, what size. I know it's a long shot, but if anyone has any idea of either the boat dimensions or experience of installing the Simrad TP10 on this particular boat (a bit of a long shot!!), then your input is very welcome! What are the chances??

 

[Refueler]

Both of my boats have the standard two pin 'Aldis Lamp' plug ./ socket that is usually supplied with such gear ... Fine and after time they get a bit temperamental ... so I take a dremel and slit the pins so I can open them out a touch to increase contact in socket.
The wiring on my 25ft boat is multi-strand (common domestic) that runs from my 12v cut off switch, (with fuse holder). Nothing fancy ... not via the switch panel.

Wiring on the 38ft runs from the Instrument switch on panel via again common multi-strand cable to the two pin plug / socket. Each switch on the panel is protected by auto throw breakers ...

So far I can keep those going ... I would prefer a better plug / socket ... but maybe later I may change them.

 

[Willham]

+1 for the very smart panel.

We had a Sadler 25 once (called Gem) with a Petter mini twin engine. Lovely little boat that sailed really well.

I've only heard good things about them, and mine is in mint condition and well loved, with a recent 10 horse Beta engine, and lots of extras. I've only sailed it once so far, but it seemed lovely. I'll be finding out how she sails in earnest when I deliver her from Cowes to the Medway. Looking forward to the trip!

 

[Refueler]

I've only heard good things about them, and mine is in mint condition and well loved, with a recent 10 horse Beta engine, and lots of extras. I've only sailed it once so far, but it seemed lovely. I'll be finding out how she sails in earnest when I deliver her from Cowes to the Medway. Looking forward to the trip!

The Sad 25 is a good boat .... it was high on my list when I was looking at Centaurs etc. when living in UK ... but along came the SR25 at a lot less money !! Don't get me wrong - the Sad 25 is a better boat than my SR25.

 

[lustyd]

One more question on this subject - as my boat is 3-4 hours away from me, I'll need to turn up on the day I fit the TP with everything I need to complete the job, however as I don't know the exact measurements of the boat, I don't know whether a pushrod extension will be required or not, and if so, what size. I know it's a long shot, but if anyone has any idea of either the boat dimensions or experience of installing the Simrad TP10 on this particular boat (a bit of a long shot!!), then your input is very welcome! What are the chances??

I don't know this, but given your boat is currently in Cowes, I would recommend making the short hop to Port Solent where www.marinesuperstore.com is based as they have all sizes in stock. There are also some good restaurants for an overnight. It's not as nice as Cowes, but the chandlery is cheaper and better stocked, and more importantly is usually open. There is a lock, but it's manned (and they will help if you ask) and they have ropes out on a pontoon that floats so it's the easiest lock you'll ever use.

 

[Willham]

Both of my boats have the standard two pin 'Aldis Lamp' plug ./ socket that is usually supplied with such gear ... Fine and after time they get a bit temperamental ... so I take a dremel and slit the pins so I can open them out a touch to increase contact in socket.
The wiring on my 25ft boat is multi-strand (common domestic) that runs from my 12v cut off switch, (with fuse holder). Nothing fancy ... not via the switch panel.

Wiring on the 38ft runs from the Instrument switch on panel via again common multi-strand cable to the two pin plug / socket. Each switch on the panel is protected by auto throw breakers ...

So far I can keep those going ... I would prefer a better plug / socket ... but maybe later I may change them.

Thanks! That's helpful. I think I'll be doing the same as you on your 25ft boat initially just to get it up and running

 

[Willham]

I don't know this, but given your boat is currently in Cowes, I would recommend making the short hop to Port Solent where www.marinesuperstore.com is based as they have all sizes in stock. There are also some good restaurants for an overnight. It's not as nice as Cowes, but the chandlery is cheaper and better stocked, and more importantly is usually open. There is a lock, but it's manned (and they will help if you ask) and they have ropes out on a pontoon that floats so it's the easiest lock you'll ever use.

That sounds like a great idea. I'll look in to that.

 

[Refueler]

One more question on this subject - as my boat is 3-4 hours away from me, I'll need to turn up on the day I fit the TP with everything I need to complete the job, however as I don't know the exact measurements of the boat, I don't know whether a pushrod extension will be required or not, and if so, what size. I know it's a long shot, but if anyone has any idea of either the boat dimensions or experience of installing the Simrad TP10 on this particular boat (a bit of a long shot!!), then your input is very welcome! What are the chances??

I hope someone can answer the extension bit - as that is an important factor. Extensions are available in varying lengths that just screw into the end of the rod .. the small locking bit then screws into end of extension. You can screw together multiple extensions - you are not just limited to one.

But there is one matter that you must be sure about .... the vertical mount stub the TO pin drops into ... Because it stands up from the bench / coaming - it takes considerable pressure when TP is working - similar the small pin you fit to tiller. They MUST be securely fastened in place.
The small pin on my 25ft has had to be reset in epoxy 2x during my ownership of the boat ... ~25yrs ....

Thinking of installations .... 'Keep Turning Left' ... see Youtube ... guy sailing round UK ... obtained a TP and initially created a wooden mount that dropped into place ... no holes drilled in boat ... and it worked till he sorted it out ages later ...

 

[Refueler]

Extension ....

The black section on that TP is the extension needed on my 38 .... just to give idea of what they look like .. I do not think you'll need such long ext on your 25 !

 

[Willham]

Another silly question - for the tiller pin receiver/cup, I presume a normal two-part epoxy (Marine Weld?) should do the trick, but depending on the the thickness of the coaming, a backing of some sort is required to prevent movement? Having never previously had cause to drill a hole in a boat, I want to make sure I get it right!

* I see my question has been answered above before I even posted it!!

 

[Refueler]

Another silly question - for the tiller pin receiver/cup, I presume a normal two-part epoxy (Marine Weld?) should do the trick, but depending on the the thickness of the coaming, a backing of some sort is required to prevent movement? Having never previously had cause to drill a hole in a boat, I want to make sure I get it right!

I've just remounted my 38 ... as the nuts fell off the bolts underneath ... not my work - that was work of the yard who looked after boat for previous owner.

The mounting on the boat to take the TP pin ... needs to be through bolted and either a decent backing plate of hard wood with large washers - or as I have an alloy plate ... stainless bolts / nuts of course.
You can use Rivetnuts or expander threads inserted into the drilled holes - but then you rely on the GRP remaining secure. I do not advise use of them.

The TP will be 'kicking' against that mount in sharp bursts ... and over time can cause it to lossen ... so through bolt if possible.

The small pin into tiller ... the manual should give you good advise on this ... personally a good resin glue such as Araldite or PU Glue is advised and pin set well into the wood. I actually use 5min Epoxy ... (its myth that 5 min is not strong ... its more than good enough for this). Only reason my pin needed two goes over 25 yrs - is the surrounding wood of the tiller - not the 5min Epoxy.

 

[davidmh]

Looks like you have a 12v cigarette type socket, it is probably fused, you could run cable with in inline fuse into the cockpit direct to the pilot, it is a get you home method, but it will work.
David MH