how to sharpen chisels ??

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lenten

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have got a combination sharpening stone---coarse one side----fine the other---i -wash in the dishwasher ---had sharpening night last night----kinives were easy but i have a problem with chisels-----i manage to keep a good angle on my2 inch but anything smaller i have problems-----any tips----thanks
 
Narrow chisels are tricky. Some people, who sharpen a lot, can train their muscle memory to keep the correct angles. The side clamp guides (as in the link above) do a good job of keeping them square. Top clamp systems, such as the Veritas one, are better built; but these are top clamps and narrow blade chisels are easily moved out of square. You can buy a side clamp piece to make them very versatile, but the total bill will be around £90. I’ve got a Robert Sorby Pro-Edge which is great in a workshop but costs the tick end of £400. Whatever you use hone to 25deg and then sharpen at 30deg.
 
. I was given one of those in the link above& found it very handy. Put the stone in a box & wooden stops about 20mm each end to give you a longer stroke.
My joiners used to do this to reduce wearing the centre of the stone. I have to say it takes years to do but it does help to get a longer stroke.
I have seen wet stones diamond ones etc. but although I have one, it is not worth the bother. I do have a home made belt sander & that tidies up a blade very quickly & I only have to touch up on the stone.
 
I sharpen my woodcarving gouges on an assortment, starting with diamond and finishing with Arkansas, but the technique is very different and the cutting angle shallower than you would wish. The edge is moved sideways across the stone instead of up and down and I sharpen fine chisels the same way, but for general woodwork chisels I just go for it on a stone the usual way. The oil is to prevent the abrasive surface from getting clogged with shavings and keep it working.
 
I grind on a bench grinder to approx 30° and hone on a stone to 25°. It takes a bit of practice to keep the angle constant but I keep my arms clear of my body and move move them independently. Hard to explain but easy to do. TBH you don't need to be precise, you can tickle it up again easily enough. I did have a Stanley honing guide which was good but I've lost it during seven house moves and one divorce.
 
green wheel on a bench grinder should do the job as thats what i use to make hss lathe tools and afterwards use a honing stone to make it really sharp.
 
thanks for all replies-------looking at the chisels in daylight---most are going to need a go on the benchgrinder to reinstate the correct angle after years of poor sharpening ----after that wiil see how i go by hand but will probably buy a honeing guide
 
Once you've got a honing guide, Google the 'scary sharp method' I've had much better results with that then either a bench grinder or a stone
 
+1 for scary sharp but float glass & wet & dry also works well. I must have tried a dozen different methods over 20 yrs of furniture making, quality honing guides are fine, cheap ones not worth a penny & all of them are slow to set up. Once you've ground them to an angle you're happy with try just holding them by hand and tipping a few more degrees to get the bevel, takes seconds & after a little practice finding the second angle's v straightforward.
By far & away the most important thing is to flatten the back before putting on the bevels, complete waste of time if you don't.
Have a look at workshop heaven, they probably have a vid tutorial, they def have scary sharp & good honing guides.
 
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