How to join stainless steel chain?

Otter

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We don’t have enough chain and want to add another 15m of 8mm stainless steel chain to the existing SS. What’s the best and most reliable way of doing that where it will still go over the windlass gypsy and be safe?

Thank you.
 
I am not quite sure whether the Crosby C link is still in production. However, I think the risk of galvanic corrosion is high with a small anode and large cathode in this configuration.

Assuming the chain to be standard 316, not a high grade such as Cromox, I would use a stainless steel C link and employ a competent welder to weld it up solid. There will be no reduction in strength, as standard 316 is not hardenable by heat treatment.
 
Also available in stainless but the specification and price don't seem consistent. I would be wary of believing these figures unless they have some test data.
Osculati break load 5000kg £6.95
s3i break load 2000kg £69.80
oops sorry. second price was for 25 units
The construction of a C link reduces the strength of the parent metal to roughly 50%. In a Crosby this is compensated for by increasing the strength of the steel to about double that of grade 30 chain. Force Four give both chain and C link the same UTS, 3200 kg, which makes me suspicious. Unless the C link is made from hard drawn 316, as Cromox is, I would be very cautious
 
The construction of a C link reduces the strength of the parent metal to roughly 50%. In a Crosby this is compensated for by increasing the strength of the steel to about double that of grade 30 chain. Force Four give both chain and C link the same UTS, 3200 kg, which makes me suspicious. Unless the C link is made from hard drawn 316, as Cromox is, I would be very cautious

It looks like I need to do some serious research into what the link is made from and pay a welder to finish it off.
 
The construction of a C link reduces the strength of the parent metal to roughly 50%. In a Crosby this is compensated for by increasing the strength of the steel to about double that of grade 30 chain. Force Four give both chain and C link the same UTS, 3200 kg, which makes me suspicious. Unless the C link is made from hard drawn 316, as Cromox is, I would be very cautious

Vyv,

Why not a link made from 2205 duplex and use it to make the joint - you would obviously need a capable welder.

We don’t have enough chain and want to add another 15m of 8mm stainless steel chain to the existing SS. What’s the best and most reliable way of doing that where it will still go over the windlass gypsy and be safe?

Thank you.

What quality is the existing chain?

Maybe if the existing chain is of good quality - sell the existing rode and buy a new SS rode of the desired length. Or dispense wth the SS completely and buy galvanised chain from Jimmy Green

Jonathan
 
Vyv,

Why not a link made from 2205 duplex and use it to make the joint - you would obviously need a capable welder.
It is a possible, although not the easiest option. 2205 needs to be heat treated to obtain its optimum mechanical properties. After welding, 1000 Deg. C for 5 minutes followed by water quench. Not easy to achieve. I guess that without this treatment its strength would be about the same as the welded 316 version.
 
Vyv,

Why not a link made from 2205 duplex and use it to make the joint - you would obviously need a capable welder.



What quality is the existing chain?

Maybe if the existing chain is of good quality - sell the existing rode and buy a new SS rode of the desired length. Or dispense wth the SS completely and buy galvanised chain from Jimmy Green

Jonathan
It’s nearly-new good quality SS chain. Selling and buying will add a lot to the cost and we love working with SS chain. The boat is 30ft and 5T so I think from the thread we’re safe with either a welded-up C link or a SS chain link - hammering the rivets and then getting the link welded up for safety. Meanwhile we’ll persevere with using more rope. The irritation is that the rope gets jammed in the jaws of the Lewmar 1000 Pro gypsy, a common problem I understand. It means we have to haul the rope by hand, then hook the chain, then set the chain on the gypsy. Another 15m of chain and we would never have to use rope for the anchoring we do.
Really appreciate the support input everyone, thank you.
 
I am not quite sure whether the Crosby C link is still in production. However, I think the risk of galvanic corrosion is high with a small anode and large cathode in this configuration.

Assuming the chain to be standard 316, not a high grade such as Cromox, I would use a stainless steel C link and employ a competent welder to weld it up solid. There will be no reduction in strength, as standard 316 is not hardenable by heat treatment.
Thank you.
 
Kito Crosby website

Crosby G-335 “Missing Link”® Replacement Links | Kito Crosby

There was a earlier discussion on the availability of the Crosby 'C' link - and the suggestion was that it is/was no longer part of the portfolio. I assume that the various parts of Kito Crosby keep the website upto date and the lack of availability looks to be incorrect.

I'm hardly the best person to advise how you can confirm availability but Gunnebo is part of Kito Crosby and has destributors in the UK, lifting chain etc. I used to buy Crosby shackles from Tecni, located in Bristol, but there might be other distributors of Crosby components and of the other parts of Kito Crosby in Europe viz Peerless, Kito Europe, Gunnebo

If you identify that Tecni hold stock it would be a service to the Forum if you confirm same.

You might need Vyv's comment on use of the C link to join stainless (or has he given comment already). If corrosion is an issue buy 2 'C' links, monitor the first one and replace with the spare when appropriate

Warning - I don't think C links are cheap

Jonathan
 
It’s nearly-new good quality SS chain. Selling and buying will add a lot to the cost and we love working with SS chain. The boat is 30ft and 5T so I think from the thread we’re safe with either a welded-up C link or a SS chain link - hammering the rivets and then getting the link welded up for safety. Meanwhile we’ll persevere with using more rope. The irritation is that the rope gets jammed in the jaws of the Lewmar 1000 Pro gypsy, a common problem I understand. It means we have to haul the rope by hand, then hook the chain, then set the chain on the gypsy. Another 15m of chain and we would never have to use rope for the anchoring we do.
Really appreciate the support input everyone, thank you.
What rope are you using, maybe change the rope construction

I would have thought a fabricator focussed at stainless would be able to weld a link of 316 stainless of sufficient strength for a 5t boat. What size chain are you using - for a 5t boat 6mm would be more than adequate but if its 8mm then a welded 8mm 316 link from a reputable marine fabricator would be overkill.

If you ask on the forum someone may be able to recommend a fabricator in or around Norfolk.

Good Luck

Jonathan

TECNI UK Stainless Steel Cable & Wire Rope Products & Fittings
 
I'm hardly the best person to advise how you can confirm availability but Gunnebo is part of Kito Crosby and has destributors in the UK, lifting chain etc. I used to buy Crosby shackles from Tecni, located in Bristol, but there might be other distributors of Crosby components and of the other parts of Kito Crosby in Europe viz Peerless, Kito Europe, Gunnebo
Tecni no longer stock Crosby C-links, neither do Flint, who used to be a reliable supplier. I noticed about a year ago that 8 mm (5/16") were out of stock at both, although 10 mm were. That is no longer the case, no stock anywhere. I read somewhere that they were being 'redesigned' but that seems to be a euphemism for 'no longer made'.

They seem to be available in USA but shipping costs are enormous. UK chandlers list galvanised and stainless links but none that I have found are high strength types.

Search: 4 results found for "missing connector link"
 
In the absence of lump hammers or competent welders, take a thin dyneema braid and give it 10000000 turns between the two end links kept at the right distance :)
Example, **very** tiny loop with aramid monofilament wound inside a dyneema cover (mainly for chafe protection), the two white tails are then buried in the loop. The cover in the photo is 3mm dia. It can be made (almost) as small as one wishes, no need for bury/taper minimum Xdiameter like with dyneema braid loops; make one fit to fill a chain link the chain will break first somewhere else, and you have an enormous safety factor anyway. No rust nor galvanic effects. Ok apart from chain it can be quite useful :)

monofilament.jpg
 
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Tecni no longer stock Crosby C-links, neither do Flint, who used to be a reliable supplier. I noticed about a year ago that 8 mm (5/16") were out of stock at both, although 10 mm were. That is no longer the case, no stock anywhere. I read somewhere that they were being 'redesigned' but that seems to be a euphemism for 'no longer made'.

They seem to be available in USA but shipping costs are enormous. UK chandlers list galvanised and stainless links but none that I have found are high strength types.

Search: 4 results found for "missing connector link"
An answer might be to have friends in the US. My conclusions on American business is that they simply are not hungry and have strange ideas about value of delivery. They appear to only ship by express delivery and forget that US Mail is cheap and reliable.

Try contacting Kito Crosby and explain what size of link you want and ask them to quote for delivery by US Snail mail. Again, I'd buy 2 units. The other option is contact Gunnebo, who might be re-named Kito Gunnebo, and see if they have a commercially accepted idea.

Jonathan
 
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