How much 'free' electricity in Med?

[syvictoria]

Hi. We're going to be moving aboard permanently this summer (yippeee!!) and then, hopefully, going through the canals to the Med not long after. We don't currently have shore power fitted, as we don't have any real need for it and we're keeping everything on board as simple as possible. We'll only have 12v electronics on board, we're electrically frugal (very, even on land!) and will have solar for battery charging plus motoring now and then, and we will have a charcoal Pansy for heating (maybe a little under powered in some places for a 30 footer, but we'll have blankets and hot water bottles too!). Our budget is going to be tight, but for us this lifestyle is about travelling and so we will want to visit larger towns and cities around the Med, and there's obviously over-wintering, and so some marina use is going to be unavoidable. Therefore, my question is, how often is electricity included for 'free' as part of marina berthing costs, as opposed to being metered? Is it more common in some countries than others?

Assuming that this is realistically likely to be somewhere where our budget is currently going to effectively be wasted, what is the easiest, KISS, and most cost effective option for installing a method of (worldwide) battery charging from a mains supply? Battery charging would seem to me to be the best method of utilising this 'free' resource, or are we overlooking/missing something else in our setup?

TIA!

 

[BartW]

I have not yet come across a port in the SOF (except one Port Napoleon) where they charge for elec nor for water.

my advice would be, install a small Victron Multiplus charger/invertor, (800W fe)
for intelligent and reliable battery charging,
but also to have a 230V socket when no shore power, or while at anker,
fe for mobile phone or PC chargers,...
or any occasional 230V appliance,

I would install 2 battery's, one for engine and one for domestic,
and interlinked with a Victron Cyrix (automatic interconnection relay)

then the alternator and or the solar cells and or the shore power / Victron multiplus - will charge your battery bank,

but you will only discharge the domestic battery, alway's power available for engine starting.

sounds complicated, but usage is very reliable and simple, and not too expensive.

 

[macd]

"Free" leccy here in Levkas, so presumably also at the other KG marinas at Gouvia, Zea Piraeus and Kalamata.

Also effectively included (although the published rates include a small daily charge for both electricity and water, I've not had this levied) in some, at least, of the EPPA marinas in southern Spain. See: www.eppa.es

 

[RAI]

An electric kettle can save a lot of gas if you regularly like warm drinks.
If you prefer cold drinks, then shore power makes cooling quicker.
A vacuum cleaner is really better than a dustpan and brush.
If you like warm water from a tap, an immersion heater is cheaper to run than an engine calorifier coil.
etc.. Shore power = home comforts.

 

[Tranona]

Shorepower big plus and well worth having installed, together with multi stage charger. as suggested useful for running a kettle and for charging rechargeable batteries as well as topping up 12v batteries. You will find good battery capacity and means of keeping it up vastly improves comfort - running fridge and not having to worry about using lights etc. Easier to fit properly before you leave than try to fit later.

 

[syvictoria]

Thanks for the replies so far. Sadly, it does look like it would be remiss of us not to implement some sort of system to utilise this free power...

I assume that something like the Victron Multiplus charger/inverter would need to go through a garage-type consumer unit/RCD? Is that, basically, all that would be required for the installation?

I can definitely see why a kettle would be useful, but a vacuum cleaner on a 30' yacht - that possibly seems a little extravagant...!!!

 

[BartW]

I assume that something like the Victron Multiplus charger/inverter would need to go through a garage-type consumer unit/RCD? Is that, basically, all that would be required for the installation?

bigger boats have a isolation transformer,
but for a small setup, I would recommend a consumer type RCD and a 16A (or appropriate size) cirquit breaker installed between the Multiplus and the shore lead.
you could fit an extra cirquit breaker between the Multiplus output, and the boat 230V socket(s)
to protect the Multiplus, but it has a internal current protection aswell.

 

[BrianH]

If you plan on reaching the Med then a refrigerator is a boon. I spent 24 years there without one before fitting a compressor system to the existing cool box. Now I have a proper system and I'd hate to go back. Can't beat a cool beer or anything else cold when it's nudging 40°C, as it often does where I am. Putting those Amps back is a lot easier with shore power.

There are many applications needing 220V on board - things like power tools for those constant maintenance jobs, for example. Cooking and water heating are also so much easier with a small two ringed hob and kettle when in harbour.

 

[neil1967]

In the Eastern Med (well, Turkey, in our experience), many of the smaller bays with restaurants will provide electricity for free, provided you eat or drink at their restaurant. Marinas will somethimes charge, but this will often be a flat charge, ie 2-3 Euro for a nights electricity, or metered with a minimum charge ie pay 3 or 4 Euro for a basic amount and then for any you use over the top of that on a metered basis. All the same, I would make sure you were able take advantage of any electricity, whether charged or not, should you need to be able to do so.

Regards

Neil

 

[charles_reed]

Most marinas include shorepower electricity as part of the berthing fee. A few town-quays in Greece make a separate charge for water and electricity.

A switch mode charger for your batteries are IMHO an essential - having done the research on switch-mode chargers in the UK, Victron (though the most reputable) were ruled out at an early stage on the basis of size, cost and relaibility. The final choice was between Ctek and Sterling - the latter won out purely for having 3 sets of outputs for individually charging 3 batteries.

Having a ring main and an electric kettle on board I've found having shorepower extremely useful for computer charging as well as recharging batteries and find that using the electric kettle (for washing up as well as cooking) saves about 35% of my LPG usage.
IMHO the OP is making a very bad mistake in not having provision for 230 ac on his boat.

I have been living aboard 6/12 year for the past 12 years round W Europe and the Med.

 

[AntarcticPilot]

When I was considering living aboard my boat in the depths of a Scottish Winter, someone pointed out to me that using an electric heater with the (charged for) marina electricity would work out cheaper than using the Eberspacher heater. I wouldn't mind betting the same is true if you compare the cost of fuel for the Pansy with the cost of electricity - and if the electricity is free, it's a no-brainer!

I'm NOT equipped for 240 volts on board - I just use a long cable and multi-way extension cable. But I'm only 31' long.

 

[sailinglegend420]

We don't currently have shore power fitted, as we don't have any real need for it....

A big mistake, wherever you are sailing. The only way to achieve a decent life for you batteries is to charge them to 100% at least once a month using shorepower. Solar cannot guarantee this unless you have a very very large array or motor all the time. Don't think that when your regulator says "Float" that your batteries are fully charged.

........what is the easiest, KISS, and most cost effective option for installing a method of (worldwide) battery charging from a mains supply.....are we overlooking/missing something else in our setup?

If you're moving to the Med and living aboard full time then it is very difficult to follow the KISS principal.

There is no "Cost-effective" method of installing a battery charger. You need to have a multi-stage 110-220 volt charger - with equalization - and one that is designed for marine use. You need to go for the largest that you can afford - maybe a combined Inverter/Charger - one that is guaranteed to charge your batteries overnight in a marina or at some restaurants where leccy is often "free" if you eat there. Divide you Battery bank capacity by 4 to get the size of charger you need. So if you did have a 400Ah bank then you really need a 100 amp shorepower charger!!!! A 20 amp charger will not charge a bank "fully" overnight.

This is a major investment but it is the ONLY way to guarantee that your batteries will be charged regularly to 100%.

If you need to ask questions about fitting RCD's/consumer units, etc., then you should get the job done by a qualified and competent marine electrical engineer. If you're not qualified it is illegal to install electrics in your own home - it should be the same on a boat.

Also fit a Galvanic Isolator.

 

[syvictoria]

I'm NOT equipped for 240 volts on board - I just use a long cable and multi-way extension cable. But I'm only 31' long.

This is what we've used to date on the hard. We're only 9m. I'm wondering where people on small boats find space to store all these 240V appliances!! Plus all the various adapters and cables required to ensure compatibility (and safety) everywhere. And then there's galvanic isolators... I now remember why we elected to avoid shore power early on in our plans...

Okay, so clearly shore power is a must, predominantly for battery charging. I really hadn't realised that electricity would be included in most berthing rates. Our only Med experience to date has been on Greek town quays.

Anyway, I will certainly do some more research into chargers, so thanks very much for all the replies.

BTW, we're on Meths (Origo) and we have a 12v Waeco coolbox (one of the low power ones). We've elected not to have a PC on board, only smartphones/tablets. Having spent 3 months travelling (and running an internet-based business) last summer with the car, tent (no hook-up!!!) and one smartphone, keeping it simple seems to suit us...

 

[Mistroma]

Divide you Battery bank capacity by 4 to get the size of charger you need. So if you did have a 400Ah bank then you really need a 100 amp shorepower charger!!!! A 20 amp charger will not charge a bank "fully" overnight.

I wondered where you got the factor of 4 from. I have a 450Ah domestic bank with a 40A charger (came as standard). I'd assumed that this was adequate based on following.

1) 450Ah bank usually well above 50% but even 50% means 225Ah charge required
2) Allowing for inefficiencies, I'd estimate charge needed at 225/0.8 = 281Ah
2) DC loads during charging (fridge, etc.) average out around 5A so actual current available for charging will be 40-5 = 35A
3) I usually have at least 16 hours on shorepower (arrive ~17:00 - leave ~10:00, faff around a bit connecting/disconnecting)
4) 16 hours at 35A = 560Ah
5) Allow for tapering effect of charge as battery level exceeds 85%. Fudge factor of 2 means 560/2 = 280Ah

So my 40A charger should be able to put in around 280Ah in 16 hours and I need 281Ah. Close but I actually find it works out OK as batteries are usually above 50%. I have Trojan T-105s so use quite a large factor for tapering, I imagine that AGMs would get close to 100% more rapidly than my flooded ones. I ignored engine & bowthruster batteries as these are usually close to 100% all the time.

Could you please explain the logic behind the factor of 4 to get a 100A charger for 440Ah bank, thanks?

 

[tri39]

This is what we've used to date on the hard. We're only 9m. I'm wondering where people on small boats find space to store all these 240V appliances!! Plus all the various adapters and cables required to ensure compatibility (and safety) everywhere. And then there's galvanic isolators... I now remember why we elected to avoid shore power early on in our plans...

Okay, so clearly shore power is a must, predominantly for battery charging. I really hadn't realised that electricity would be included in most berthing rates. Our only Med experience to date has been on Greek town quays.

Anyway, I will certainly do some more research into chargers, so thanks very much for all the replies.

BTW, we're on Meths (Origo) and we have a 12v Waeco coolbox (one of the low power ones). We've elected not to have a PC on board, only smartphones/tablets. Having spent 3 months travelling (and running an internet-based business) last summer with the car, tent (no hook-up!!!) and one smartphone, keeping it simple seems to suit us...

I'm still Keeping It Simple after 20yrs in the Med. A long cable with marine socket one end and 4way extension on the other is fine.
I've made do with solar panels and a cheap charger from Halfords, since we rarely visit marinas in the summer.
Double your battery capacity, two batts in parallel, I have two ROLLS 125 together.
I've only just bought a CTEK5amp charger for the second battery bank. As Charles says, some have two outlets if nec.
Battery Megastore seem to be having a sale atm.
Lots of fridge insulation so you can turn it off at night makes a big difference. Put more polystyrene inside if it's not full.
You don't need to spend a fortune on a modest sized boat.

 

[Mistroma]

When I was considering living aboard my boat in the depths of a Scottish Winter, someone pointed out to me that using an electric heater with the (charged for) marina electricity would work out cheaper than using the Eberspacher heater. I wouldn't mind betting the same is true if you compare the cost of fuel for the Pansy with the cost of electricity - and if the electricity is free, it's a no-brainer!

I'm NOT equipped for 240 volts on board - I just use a long cable and multi-way extension cable. But I'm only 31' long.

I used to do exactly the same thing on my Southerly 95 for many years. I installed a Dolphin All-in-one unit and it transformed life on the boat. No more tripping over cables, 3 sockets to choose from for heater, TV, kettle. Very easy to install and I wished that I'd installed it years earlier. I needed to buy a decent charger anyway at the time. So £280 for shore power including 20A charger seemed sensible in 2004.

Just looked up the cost of one now £730 and think I'd stick to the extension again (or buy sep. bits instead of an All-in-one).
http://www.power-store.com/view-item.asp?itemid=245&id=45&

£280 > £730 in 9 years seems a bit excessive. I remember managing to persuade Merlin to give a decent discount but don't remember holding a shot-gun.

 

[noelex]

It does depend on how much time you spend at anchor. There are some wonderful anchorages in the Med.
I only get to plug into shore power every couple of years or so.
Consider how you will spend your time.

 

[multihullsailor6]

I've been cruising now for 2 1/2 years, 1 1/2 years of which I have spent in the Med and must say that I have not come across many marinas in the Med which offer free electricity to long term berth holders - Cartagena in Spain until recently had a "all in" policy for monohulls but have changed that now as there was major abuse.

In my view shore power is vital in winter to keep the batteries topped up and to keep warm in the Med!

 

[BartW]

1 1/2 years of which I have spent in the Med and must say that I have not come across many marinas in the Med which offer free electricity to long term berth holders

surprising, all ports in the SOF we have been, (except one, port Napoleon) is leccy included in the mooring price, also for long term.
which area / ports have you been ?

 

[sailinglegend420]

I have a 450Ah domestic bank with a 40A charger (came as standard).........Could you please explain the logic behind the factor of 4 to get a 100A charger for 440Ah bank

Most battery manufacturers recommend a charging current of 20% of battery capacity (C) - that's C/5. Trojan recommend C/10 or 10%. Allowing for inefficiencies and the load taken by the boat a charger of C/4 or 25% of C would be best for most batteries. For your 450 Ah Trojans that should be about 13% or C/8 = a 60 amp charger. So you need one 50% bigger!

.............So my 40A charger should be able to put in around 280Ah in 16 hours and I need 281Ah. ...............

Most unlikely. You fudge factor is much too low.

Your charger may put in 35 amps for about 4 hours = 140Ah, by which time it should have reached about 80%. It will stay in absorption mode for probably a further 4 hours, that’s probably the maximum time set by the regulator, it will then go to float well before the batteries are fully charged. The current during this absorption charge will die exponentially to a few amps and then enter "Float". Your fudge factor of 1/2 would give 20 amps for 4 hours = 80Ah. A total of 220 Ah. You need to put in 281 Ah.
A proper fudge factor for the decaying current might be about ¼ or more = an average of 9 amps for 4 hours = 36Ah, a total of 206 Ah. To put in another 70 Ah at say 3 amps would take another 23 hours.

All very theoretical, but much closer to the truth than your calculations.

The main point is that at float voltage you could still have 12 hours or more before the batteries are fully charged.