How big too big for slab reefing?

[Skylark]

Our electric halyard winch is generally only used for hoisting the fully battened main when single handed - as pulling from the cockpit it gets heavy after the second set of spreaders.
Occasionally it also gets used to assist with jib furling if caught in a squall, and very occasionally for speeding up a reef when getting tired on one of these days when everything has been happening in a short period due to gusty winds.

However, our rule is simple but effective for avoiding damage - only ever 2 turns round the electric winch and NEVER in the self tailer unless winding by hand. Seen a lot of people breaking things using power winch, but with our technique it starts to slip if something jamming. Many times this has saved problems / breakages.

PS. Difficult to scandalise a fully battened sail with rod kicker, But equally never lands on somebody’s head, and proper attention to rope alignment and size we have no issue with friction in our single line reefing lines (which does without the complexity of Selden pulleys inside boom).

Can’t argue with any of this, seems like sensible advice. Of course, all boats are different and there’s no “one size fits all” advice.

I wish that I’d heeded my own advice last year. My headsail furler became stiff so I used my power winch…..cost me a new shroud when I replaced the seized furler ?

I have a rod kicker but not a fully battened main and even a slight movement upwards of the boom makes hoisting, lowering and reefing fairly straightforward. Like you, I use the power winch to get the main up, beyond where my 2-Weetabix strength runs out.

 

[Major_Clanger]

A 47 footer is fine for two with slab reefing without powered winches IMO. In addition to all the sound advice you've already had, I'd just add that timing is key. If you reef down in good time then you won't be fighting the sail down and gravity will be your friend.

The adage that the time to reef is when you first think about it is a good one.

 

[davethedog]

Ok thanks all and what about making it so it can be reefed from the cockpit? Single line or 2 line reefing for reefs 1, 2 and 3?

 

[Topcat47]

LSP boats are all over 60' and all have slab reefing. It helps to have a crew of young fit people tho'.

 

[davethedog]

Thanks all and best way to think about converting it so can be reefed from the cockpit and not have to go to the mast?

 

[Stemar]

Ok thanks all and what about making it so it can be reefed from the cockpit? Single line or 2 line reefing for reefs 1, 2 and 3?

Personally, I'd go for single, but with the best blocks I could afford and slippery line to reduce friction. I reckon you're less likely to get in a mess with one line to tidy up, even if there's more of it, than two.

My top tip is to feed the line down the companionway as you pull it in so it isn't trying to trip you in the cockpit. Same when letting it out. throw the flaked line down the companionway, and it'll feed more easily.

 

[geem]

Thanks all and best way to think about converting it so can be reefed from the cockpit and not have to go to the mast?

Why not try it first and see how you get on with reefing at the mast? We do this on a 44 ft boat. I have never felt the need to change it. We have super low friction. The only thing the haliard passes around other than the winch is the sheeve at the top of the mast.
We have a cockpit that isn't full of rope. It works for us?

 

[Wing Mark]

....

I have a rod kicker but not a fully battened main and even a slight movement upwards of the boom makes hoisting, lowering and reefing fairly straightforward.....

When you speak of raising the boom, and earlier 'scandalising', would you agree that what this is all about, is that raising the boom above 90 degrees to the mast moves the clew towards the mast.
This removes the tension from the slides in the mast?
On some boats the main is not going to move easily up or down unless you ease the outhaul. Which will likely have been pulled on hard as the wind got towards reefing level?
(I've had dinghies where the main won't go up unless the mast bend is in a certain range).

Conversely, having pulled the reef line tight, when you then drop the boom, this could put excess tension on the sail?
Is this an issue of you have dyneema reefing lines, or in practice, is it OK, because you want all that tension?
I suspect cruising dacron of 'a certain age' is pretty stretchy.
I'm just refitting my boom and reefing system, the dyneema is in the post somewhere....

 

[Skylark]

When you speak of raising the boom, and earlier 'scandalising', would you agree that what this is all about, is that raising the boom above 90 degrees to the mast moves the clew towards the mast.
This removes the tension from the slides in the mast?

Yes.