How are the team getting the raw water filter undone? Mine's stuck

[NPMR]

The raw water, engine cooling, for the use of: comes up from the seacock into a Vetus type 140/330 'see-thru' plastic filter.

The service engineer has, once again, tightened it up so hard I cannot shift it, to open it, by hand. I'm going to need a tool.

What tool? Thinking of having a Stilson wrench on the boat. Or could get a very large filter wrench (for 5" dia).

Or I could go with better ideas that you guys give me.

Help!

(PS I have to open it to prime it, at the beginning of the season as for some reason, the impeller will not self prime the first time but thereafter, it is fine. And if I remember to shut the seacock before drying out, for example, it also does not need priming. Just after the engineer has played with it!)

 

[sarabande]

Piece of strong plywood12 to 15mm. Cut a table tennis bat shape, and a couple of slots to fit over the lugs on the lid.

Sorted. Don't overtighten

 

[rogerthebodger]

A Strap wrench like these

https://www.google.co.za/search?q=s...gAhWlsXEKHerMDJMQsAR6BAgCEAE&biw=1366&bih=576

This is interesting
https://www.instructables.com/id/OIL-FILTER-WRENCH/

 

[RichardS]

I used a strap wrench the first time I had to remove mine as I have to re-prime after a lifted out.

The strange thing is that even though I only nip them up, when I come to remove them a year later they always seem much tighter .... although not so tight that I've needed to revert to the wrench.

Richard

 

[jwilson]

I broke the mounting lugs on mine trying to undo it after someone else had overtightened it up. After rather a lot of ££s for a new one now use lots of silicone grease on the threads and rubber sealing ring, and it undoes much more easily.

 

[VicS]

The raw water, engine cooling, for the use of: comes up from the seacock into a Vetus type 140/330 'see-thru' plastic filter.

The service engineer has, once again, tightened it up so hard I cannot shift it, to open it, by hand. I'm going to need a tool.

What tool? Thinking of having a Stilson wrench on the boat. Or could get a very large filter wrench (for 5" dia).

Or I could go with better ideas that you guys give me.

Help!

(PS I have to open it to prime it, at the beginning of the season as for some reason, the impeller will not self prime the first time but thereafter, it is fine. And if I remember to shut the seacock before drying out, for example, it also does not need priming. Just after the engineer has played with it!)

https://www.thewetworks.co.uk/products/vetus-filter-lid-removal-wrench-for-vetus-ftr330-series

 

[Balbas]

A plumbers wrench is probably your friend. I don't mean a Stilson, but those adjustable jaw pliers. Great for oil filters too.

Edit:- like these https://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-vice-grip-12-groove-joint-pliers/43518

 

[Old Harry]

The raw water, engine cooling, for the use of: comes up from the seacock into a Vetus type 140/330 'see-thru' plastic filter.

The service engineer has, once again, tightened it up so hard I cannot shift it, to open it, by hand. I'm going to need a tool.

What tool? Thinking of having a Stilson wrench on the boat. Or could get a very large filter wrench (for 5" dia).

Or I could go with better ideas that you guys give me.

Help!

(PS I have to open it to prime it, at the beginning of the season as for some reason, the impeller will not self prime the first time but thereafter, it is fine. And if I remember to shut the seacock before drying out, for example, it also does not need priming. Just after the engineer has played with it!)

Why not DIY, if not get the "Engineer" back to remove to top & apply silicone grease to the seals & "nip it up".
The "Engineer" has done it up tight so no air can get sucked in to stop it priming, silicone grease will do the same job

 

[ghostlymoron]

It doesn't even need 'nipping up', finger tight is sufficient but apply a smear of silicone grease to the threads and 'O' ring. It's easy to crack the casing by using too much force.

Why not DIY, if not get the "Engineer" back to remove to top & apply silicone grease to the seals & "nip it up".
The "Engineer" has done it up tight so no air can get sucked in to stop it priming, silicone grease will do the same job

 

[Billba]

Using normally available tools in the average toolbox. Expand the handles of a pair of pliers (preferably with insulated handles to protect the plastic lid) and upturn them so as to engage the ridges on the lid. Applying downward pressure (ideally with a gloved hand to prevent slippage/ blood blisters) insert your largest screwdriver in either of the crutches formed by the expanded pliers. Apply gentle force in an anticlockwise direction and if more torque is required increase the downward pressure on the pliers. Worked for me ... then I discovered the proper tool tucked inside one of the lockers. Cheers Bill

 

[Old Harry]

It doesn't even need 'nipping up', finger tight is sufficient but apply a smear of silicone grease to the threads and 'O' ring. It's easy to crack the casing by using too much force.

Agreed, i still have a bronze S&L one with wing nuts

 

[PetiteFleur]

https://www.thewetworks.co.uk/products/vetus-filter-lid-removal-wrench-for-vetus-ftr330-series

I also made up similar tool using piece of plywood for my filter with a single slot, works well but using silicon grease as mentioned is the answer.

 

[Crisby]

I had the same problem recently, solved by gentle use of a large G-clamp

 

[greeny]

Piece of 2x1 wood with two 6mm set screws through it at the appropriated spacing to create two spigots. Place on top and turn. Easier than recreating the original tool with the cross cutout in.

 

[nimrod1230]

Any reason not to buy the correct tool?

 

[Tomaret]

Any reason not to buy the correct tool?

What do you mean by “the correct tool”? Surely any tool that does the job without damaging the kit or the operator is correct, and as has already been said, the average tool kit will have several qualifying solutions. Why pay £23 for a piece of plastic that has to be stored and only used once (after which the user will make sure that silicone grease is applied so that it doesn’t happen again)?

 

[greeny]

Any reason not to buy the correct tool?

Yes, boat in Portugal, tools in UK. Plus, why when there are many satisfactory solutions that I don't have to pay for and wait for delivery.

 

[Crisby]

Yes, boat in Portugal, tools in UK. Plus, why when there are many satisfactory solutions that I don't have to pay for and wait for delivery.

Similar for me, boat is in Sicily, we were there for 4 days, boat is new to us so still discovering what is/is not on board, some maintenance jobs need a bit of creative thinking! ( in the absence of the correct tools).

But now it is hand tight for my hands and not a gorillas’ it shouldn’t happen again...........

Chris

 

[Daydream believer]

Wrap a short length of webbing (or very flexible old belt or 4mm line might do if you can hold it in place) around the circumference, tightly about 3 turns, Hook a flat piece of plywood or stick about 9 inches long& 1 inch wide into the lay & carry the webbing up round the end of the ply & back down. Grip the ply & webbing firmly & turn. The stick needs to sit in line with the webbing ( not at right angles to it) & nip over the turns to jam them tighter on the circumference & lever up against the webbing
Same can be used for a filter if the filter is not too greasy.With filters a piece of 4mm line wrapped lots of times is sometimes better

 

[RichardS]

Any reason not to buy the correct tool?

Bodging is better.

However, be aware that not all Vetus raw-water strainers with a clear plastic top have the large cross embossed on the lid. My Vetus strainers don't which means I had to rely on the strap wrench.

Richard