HELP Palmer 32 and furling main sails

[Richard D]

Anyone any info on how good a Palmer 32 is. It would not be my choice a furling main sail but the boat I have seen, which suits perfectly otherwise, has one. I realise it cannot be batterned, so how will it sail in the diff points of sailing, a percentage against normal would be something I can understand.
It is canoe style what are the benefits or dowmsides to this style.

Richard

 

[sarabande]

some furling mains can be battened, using vertical battens. Hood did one a few years ago, and the vertical battens were useful in creating a high roach to the sail, making it aero efficient.

If the main is cut to make allowances for the 'parallel' rolling action, then you balance the ability to take in a few centimeters at a time to suit the wind and your aspirations, against slab reefs which offer substantial reductions in area at one go. I had an inmast extension with a furling main. Some care needed to make sure the main was not under strain when being rolled in, but very adjustable. Main advantage is that you don't fiddle around with stackpacks and lazy lines.


Canoe stern. No problems. It gives a good storage area at the blunt end; the stern rises gently to big following seas; the back stay is at the biggest distance from the mast. Against - you lose the ability to put a double cabin right at the blunt end, or have a swim platform/sugar scoop.

FWIW, I think they produce a more seakindly hull.

 

[Richard D]

Thanks Sarah

Thamk you for info, not seen the boat yet, just wanting best info which You have given. You mention vertical batterns, presume sail must be made to have these fitted, will ask seller. Ok, lets assume it has not got them and cant have them, what diff will it make. It will be my first boat so dont know too much about things only what I have seen when crewing.
Like the good sea motion as I want to go far afeild when i have got the confidense.

Richard

 

[Tranona]

If the boat was designed to have in mast furling you may well find the sail area has been increased to compensate for the loss of roach. Would be wary if it is an add-on system as they are not the best either mechanically of functionally as they do lead to a decrease in area and add significant weight aloft compared with standard furling mast such as a Selden.

In general furling sails don't produce such an efficient shape as battened, although draft can be adjusted, so there is some loss in ultimate performance. However, in practical terms for passage making, particularly when short or single handed this is more than offset by ease of handling and ability to fine tune sail area for the conditions. Vertical battens have their fans, but some mast sections are not big enough to take them when rolled, and most people find well cut standard sails adequate.

Make sure all the controls go back to the cockpit and run smoothly. There is a knack to learning how to furl and unfurl the sail without causing jams, but once you have done it they are pretty idiot proof.

Assume you are looking at the boat in Portchester. The Z spars mast looks like a conversion - worth getting a rigger to check it. Low price for the boat suggests all might not be what it seems. Unless you know a lot about looking after a wooden boat it might not be a good first time buy. On the other hand it is a rare design so the boat could be fine, just not well enough known to command a price closer to more popular designs.

 

[Richard D]

Regarding condition, a survey from last year, survey very good except says it has a bit of delamination of the fibreglass sheathing that is over the wooden hull, is this a reason to refuse the boat. I am very handy, built fibreglass crew cabs for trucks among other things, also found auto pilot and heater system not working. It had just had a new coat of paint . Yes, I know it could be to hide stuff but it looks so good. As you say quite a unique boat, could not find any info on the net about such a maker of boats and also being so rare how do you put a price on it when there is no bench mark. One thig that may put a lot off is only 3 berths do you think that will be a factor.
I hope to sail it single handed when I have had more experience and may even think of sailing to the med and fitting a wind vane tiller, what are your thoughts on these and will they fit to a canoe stern?

Regards Richard

 

[Tranona]

Sheathed wooden hulls usually ring alarm bells (assuming it is GRP rather than Cascover or epoxy). Normal polyester does not attach well to wood and any movement in the wood can result in the sheathing breaking away. If it was done from new and the wood structure is stable then it may be OK. If it was done at a later stage (usually to cure a leaking hull) then it may not be so good.

As to the design - it does not look out of the ordinary so should be quite a capable cruising boat. Quite possible to fit a windvane to a canoe stern, although obviously you need a substantial framework to attach it. Have a look on the Hydrovane website as there are photos on there of similar installations.

As to value, as you say there is little to benchmark it against, except that a similar size and type of boat in GRP (say a Victoria 30) will sell for around 3 times as much, or an older Nic 32 twice as much. The lower asking price for this boats reflects its unknown provenance (ie not a well known designer/builder), lack of accommodation, old engine and method of construction. Traditionally built wooden boats of this size built to popular designs would also be £20k+ in good condition.

So, you can either look on it as a real bargain (half price boat) and accept the negatives or play safe and go for a better known design at a much higher price.

 

[Richard D]

Much appreciate your advice, maybe time to toss a coin lol All the boats I have look at and it is over a year now all seem to have things that either need doing or are short features I would have to fit eg money to spend, so as the boat suits otherwise and the low cost maybe I can justify looking at a hull "repair".
Pretty sure this what i called fibreglass sheathing, maybe it is something esle, was put on after. assuming it is firbreglass what materials of this style would form a sound repair or is it a case that the whole would need taking off and starting again. the products you mentioned it could have been done with how would i recognise them/

Regards Richard

 

[Vara]

Can't help with the structural problems, but back to furling mains.

You can get vertical battens for a furling main, I have this set up on a retro fitted furling system.

These people are the specialists;

http://www.maxiroach.com/maxiroach.asp

But I'm sure other sailmakers can do them.

I've found the system very easy to use for the reasons outlined by Sarabande.
I counteract the greater weight aloft by keeping loads of beer in the bilge.

 

[Tranona]

Boat seems to be very well fitted out, if rather an idiosyncratic layout - presumably whoever had it built was looking to single hand.

Difficult to tell difference between epoxy and Polyester as they look similar, mainly the resin, although epoxy tends to use cloth rather than mat. Cascover is a nylon weave set in resorcinol glue and you can usually tell by visible seams. It has the advantage of being flexible and moves with the wood.

You really need a surveyor experienced in wooden construction to go over the boat. Localised damage, even in polyester is not difficult to repair, but major delamination is a signal to run away as fast as you can.

Looks like the deck and coachroof is sheathed as well, which can be good as this is where wooden boats are vulnerable to rot from rainwater getting into joints. The cockpit cover is great as it stops rainwater from lying in the cockpit when you are not using the boat - ie most of the time!