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Borrowed a friends seagull for the tender and am not sure how to stop it properly, not sure pulling the cover off the spark plug is correct !!
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So this one is not set with throttle cable to close of ..... no problem ... original idea was to shut fuel valve BEFORE arrival at destination about 100m before ........... with engine running dry shortly after or if you are experienced SG user ... you "know" when to close the fuel tap !!
Sorry but SG's were designed with simplicity ............... !! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Simply ............ close fuel tap about 50 - 100 yds out .... then get to destination either by paddle last few yards or if well calc'd you get there and alongside ... just hang on for those few seonds that takes engine to stop -WHICH is what you should do with ALL 2 strokes anyway .....
The original instructions were to close the throttle. The throttle should be adjusted so that when fully closed, the engine stops.
You will also note that altering the angle of the steering tiller arm alters the throttle. This was also noted in the instructions and commended as a way of fine tuning the throttle position!!
1.Throttle cable set to shut off . Move lever to right of 'start' marks on the control.
2.Have rust in fuel tank. Blocks carburettor somewhere in first 500 metres of running.
3. Shut fuel valve . Stops after 100m or so.
4. Shut air valve on tank. Varied stop distance
5. Use old fuel. Stops randomly, four-strokes while running.
6. Have rusted up and blocked cooling ways in cylinder head. Will overheat lose compression noisily and stop after 700 metres. Will restart after 5 mins.
... Apart from clothing ....
We had a pre-war century, two bladed prop, brass tank. Get it to stop???? We used to sit up in the bow, talking loudly about any subject other than starting the Seagull. At a pre-arranged signal we would rush to the stern and wrap the cord round the flywheel before it knew what was happening. It worked every once in a blue moon.
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1.Throttle cable set to shut off . Move lever to right of 'start' marks on the control.
2.Have rust in fuel tank. Blocks carburettor somewhere in first 500 metres of running.
3. Shut fuel valve . Stops after 100m or so.
4. Shut air valve on tank. Varied stop distance
5. Use old fuel. Stops randomly, four-strokes while running.
6. Have rusted up and blocked cooling ways in cylinder head. Will overheat lose compression noisily and stop after 700 metres. Will restart after 5 mins.
... Apart from clothing ....
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Having had many SG's .... many friends have .... etc. - sorry but what a load of !"£$%^&*()_+
Cable can be set to close throttle / stop engine...... but I prefer factory setting where you shut fuel valve ......
Seagulls provided many UK boaters needs for decades - what a load of tosh spoken now !!
I know it is not your SG but the remedy's are to fit a simple switch if the LT side of the ignition , fit the switch on the under side of the flywheel housing I set mine so the toggle of the switch is forward for go and astern for stop. Then there are two vent holes in the float chamber "Plug " the foreword one so when you tilt the SG you don't get petrol flooding everywhere.
Keep a healthy spark in the right place and it will run first pull. I've had 6 or 7 of em over the years and the one I have now is probably the oldest and as everything it is better made than the latest models.
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We had a pre-war century, two bladed prop, brass tank.
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Which War was that then /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
My first job when I left scool at 15 in 66 to work for a marine engineer was on seagulls,although I had been using them a lot earlier.