The normal adhesive is contact adhesive ie Evostick but make sure there is plenty of ventalation as the fumes are quote bad.
You only put it on one side touch them together seperate the lining from the roof wait ten minutes then press them together. You have to remove all the dusty foam before using glue. I used to do this weekly on the foam linings on a fleet of 20 hire boats, but had to be careful not to go high on the fumes.
I would just like to add a further warning regarding the fumes given off by the solvents used in Evo stick and thixofix. I ended up in Hostpital with liver failure due to solvent damage when using these adhesives in a combined space. Ventilation IS JUST NOT ENOUGH> YOU MUST WEAR A SUITABLE SOLVENT MASK. TALK TO THE LOCAL 3M stockist.
Sorry to be a bit theatrical but I was off work for four months, lost 2 stone, the white of my eyes went a greenish/yellowish colour, my skin became greyish/yellow and worst of all, I could not take a glass of the demon brew for abouit three years.
John. My westerly 30 is now 31 years old , the lining everywhere was hanging, took it all off cleaned off residue of foam backing and adhesive then refitted using cheap corded carpet, spray adhesive to carpet and deckhead did the job, less fumes good adhesive properties, now have nice warm condensation free boat!!
Hi. I am doing the same thing at the moment.
I assume that you are replacing the head lining so that you need to glue the foam backing of the new material to grp.
I have tried using PVA, which sticks fine and has the great advantage of producing no nasty fumes (its water based, so will not tolerate frost until it has dried). The snag is it takes a long time dry so the head lining has to be supported. I'm not sure how long I just left it overnight (at least). This was OK for small areas under the side decks, but now I am about to do the main area of the cabin deck head I am thinking of reverting to the same technique I used when I put up the original head lining (20+ years ago). That was to use EVO STICK (actually I think it was the Dunlop equivalent that Toomer and Hayter sell for this purpose) but I found that it was too thick to brush on easily and was greatly improved by thinning with "cellulose" thinners (it doesn't do anything to improve fumes). Incidentally thinners are a LOT cheaper If you buy a 5 litre can at the car paint dealer rather than 1 litre cans at the local DIY shop, and you may need some to clean off the old paint.