Generic Unbranded Unthickened Bleach

[ducked]

Aluminium flake is quite commonly used to protect steel from corrosion, not as effective as zinc powder and definitely not as effective as galvanising. Silberline (owned by Altana) are one of the biggest players in aluminium pigments. if you are using aluminium flake as a pigment in a paint you really need a decent resin system or the aluminium will simply be 'washed' off.

Jonathan

As I said, I used sunflower oil. Im afraid it didnt wash off, though I suppose if it had been sukected to pressure washing, say by typhoomal rain, before it had polymerised it might have. This was in Taiwan so polymerisation would be significantly quicker than in the UK, and the oil was old so probably already partially polymerised.

Cocs Cola are one of the biggest players supplying my aluminium pigments, but it baries by location

 

[philwebb]

I second Ylop, all you need is a pure sodium hypochlorite based solution as used for babies bottles eg Milton. It will do the job of sterilising your water tank.

 

[Farmer Piles]

I haven't read all the replies but what you need is sodium hypochlorite. It's potent stuff and will eat through your clothes when neat. It's not too bad if you get it on your skin if you wash it off right away. Definitely nowhere near your eyes.
We used to use it when we had our dairy herd. There must be farm supply outlets in the rural parts of Taiwan, I would imagine that they would have it.
It does need a lot of dilution though. It is corrosive if used unwisely.

 

[ducked]

Thanks. Im no longer in Taiwan. Such things tend to be more available there though can be difficult to find without Chinese

 

[Neeves]

I'd take a quick survey of your local supermarkets and simply buy the cheapest, sodium hypo you can find - its probably generic, no additives. As soon as they make additives the price will go up. I'm guessing the supermarkets or their suppliers deliver in 1,000l containers and the cheap stuff on the shelves is simply repacked in 2l container for retail.

Your ideas are interesting (and do not merit the sarcasm nor scorn). Using the report button might be useful to quell their comments. To me you are maintaining the spirit of PBO. Report back when you have some firm results.

I'd do the same with your choice of vegetable oil- use the cheapest first and olive oil last )

Jonathan

 

[ducked]

Household bleach is typically a mix of sodium hypochlorite and sodium hydroxide (caustic) in solution. The balance/control of these being important to get the right amount of “free chlorine” to do the stuff you want and not so much that you just get clouds of Chlorine gas and no “shelf life”.

The low pH (EDIT：ｃｏｒｒｅｃｔｉｏｎ　ｈｉｇｈ　ｐＨ） might be expected to cause saponification of the oil, which would be undesirable in this context. Other sources of chlorine might be a better bet.

 

[ylop]

The low pH might be expected to cause saponification of the oil, which would be undesirable in this context. Other sources of chlorine might be a better bet.

Bleach doesn’t have a low pH.

 

[ylop]

I have used sunflower oil with aluminium as an anti-rust paint for several years in an automotive context and found it to be quite effective…
… It just occured to me that partially chlorinated sunflower oil might have some advantage in microbial resistance,

I have no worries about microbial activity on car bodiies, since I no longer have a car. I do, however, have a boat, and these, being wet things, see a lot of microbial and macrobial action.

You’ve lost me - because you were talking about rust protection and now you are talking about mould. Are you going to coat all your soft furnishing in cooking oil, bleach and aluminium? Or are you just wasting our time.

That said, my last car grew mould in enclosed spaces,

On surfaces you had treated with your home brew corrosion guard?

and at various times hosted rats, ghekko, frogs (when the sills were flooded) and bivouac ants.

Did you wonder if covering your car in kitchen product was attracting them?

 

[ducked]

I'd take a quick survey of your local supermarkets and simply buy the cheapest, sodium hypo you can find - its probably generic, no additives. As soon as they make additives the price will go up. I'm guessing the supermarkets or their suppliers deliver in 1,000l containers and the cheap stuff on the shelves is simply repacked in 2l container for retail.

Your ideas are interesting (and do not merit the sarcasm nor scorn). Using the report button might be useful to quell their comments. To me you are maintaining the spirit of PBO. Report back when you have some firm results.

I'd do the same with your choice of vegetable oil- use the cheapest first and olive oil last )

Jonathan

Thanks

Somewhat prematurely perhaps, I used my standard technique on the outside of the bilge keels, and on the anchor, with about one year old sunflower oil. Went on and looked pretty good, though my drill failed towards the end of the portside so the aluminium was a bit thin there.

While this worked very well on things like rusted brake drums in Taiwan, it seems very possible that it will all just slough off on immersion in the North Sea, taking my intended bitumen paint overcoating and any antifouling with it, so for now I intend using something more conventional (maybe International Primocon?) for the central cast iron ballast keel, which is a lot less accessible.

I'm thinking I'll compromise on the interior face of the ballast keels, and use boiled linseed on the starboard side and an alkyd resin (perhaps Penetrol?) on the port.

 

[ducked]

You’ve lost me - because you were talking about rust protection and now you are talking about mould. Are you going to coat all your soft furnishing in cooking oil, bleach and aluminium? Or are you just wasting our time.

Are you

(a) Asking questions that deserve an answer?

OR

(b) Just trying to take the piss?

I'm thinking (b)

 

[ducked]

Bleach doesn’t have a low pH.

Mistake. Meant high pH.

Low pH wouldnt cause saponification.

 

[Neeves]

Thanks

Somewhat prematurely perhaps, I used my standard technique on the outside of the bilge keels, and on the anchor, with about one year old sunflower oil. Went on and looked pretty good, though my drill failed towards the end of the portside so the aluminium was a bit thin there.

While this worked very well on things like rusted brake drums in Taiwan, it seems very possible that it will all just slough off on immersion in the North Sea, taking my intended bitumen paint overcoating and any antifouling with it, so for now I intend using something more conventional (maybe International Primocon?) for the central cast iron ballast keel, which is a lot less accessible.

I'm thinking I'll compromise on the interior face of the ballast keels, and use boiled linseed on the starboard side and an alkyd resin (perhaps Penetrol?) on the port.

Don't worry - there is no reason not to have a number of unrelated projects all developing at different rates. You seem to be a product of Lateral Thinking - no bad thing.

Reading posts is voluntary - if people don't like your posts they can put you on 'ignore' - but I find most are masochists and like to read posts they know will upset them (and then complain to the OP). Bizarre

I once tried Lanolin. It was a disaster, it encouraged fouling.

If any AF treatment is so poisonous that nothing sticks - it will already be banned, like TBT. Copper is the most accepted product, copper sheathed ships for centuries and in a modern version -Copper Coat. Vyv Cox had his prop electrically copper coated, see his website, it worked OK - but he sold the vessel before he could make a long term assessment. If you know what to look for there is a wealth of knowledge hidden inside the search function.

Jonathan

 

[ducked]

I'd do the same with your choice of vegetable oil- use the cheapest first and olive oil last )

Jonathan

Ｉ　ＴＨＩＮＫ　ｓｏｙａ　ｉｓ　ｕｓｕａｌｌｙ　ｃｈｅａｐｅｓｔ，　ｂｕｔ　Ｉ　ｈａｖｅ　ｔｈｅ
ｉｍｐｒｅｓｓｉｏｎ　ｉｔｓ　ｍｏｒｅ　ｉｎｃｌｉｎｅｄ　ｔｏ　ｇｒｏｗ　ｍｏｕｌｄ　ａｎｄ　ｄｏｅｓｎｔ
ｐｏｌｙｍｅｒｉｓｅ　ｖｅｒｙ　ｗｅｌｌ，　ｔｈｏｕｇｈ　ＴＢＨ I cant remember my basis for that.

Sunflower is sometimes classed as "semi-drying" and polymerises OK　ｉｎ　Ｔａｉｗａｎ，ｂｕｔ　ｍａｙ　ｂｅ　ａ　ｂｉｔ　ｓｌｏｗ　ｆｏｒ　Ｓｃｏｔｌａｎｄ，　ａｎｄ　ｉｓ　ｏｆ　ｃｏｕｒｓｅ　ａ　ｌｏｔ　ｓｌｏｗｅｒ　ｔｈａｎ
ｌｉｎｓｅｅｄ，　ｗｈｉｃｈ　ｉｓ　ｔｈｅ　ｂａｓｉｓ　ｆｏｒ　ｔｒａｄｉｔｉｏｎａｌ　ｐａｉｎｔｓ　ａｎｄ
ｇａｌｖａｎｉｚｅｄ　ｒｉｇｇｉｎｇ　ｐｒｏｔｅｃｔｉｏｎ．

Ｒａｐｅｓｅｅｄ　ｏｉｌ　（ａｎｄ　ｐｒｅｓｕｍａｂｌｙ　ｉｔｓ　ｓｕｐｅｒｍａｒｋｅｔ　ｇｅｎｅｔｉｃａｌｌｙ　ｅｎｇｉｎｅｅｒｅｄ　ｆｏｒ　ｐａｌａｔａｂｉｌｉｔｙ　ｄｅｒｉｖａｔｉｖｅ　Ｃａｎｏｌａ）　ｉｓ　ｔｏｏ
ｓｔａｂｌｅ，　ａｓ　ｉｓ　Ｃａｓｔｏｒ，　ｈｅｎｃｅ　ｔｈｅｉｒ　ｕｓｅ　ａｓ　ｓｔｅａｍ　ａｎｄ　ｐｅｔｒｏｌ　ｅｎｇｉｎｅ　ｌｕｂｒｉｃａｎｔｓ，　ｒｅｓｐｅｃｔｉｖｅｌｙ．

 

[Neeves]

Rice bran oil used to be cheap and then gained market penetration (and the price went up). But apart from its culinary usage (we use it a lot) I know nothing about it.

I don't want any, so its an academic question but where do you source Linseed oil. Much paint is now water based.

Jonathan

 

[ducked]

Rice bran oil used to be cheap and then gained market penetration (and the price went up). But apart from its culinary usage (we use it a lot) I know nothing about it.

I don't want any, so its an academic question but where do you source Linseed oil. Much paint is now water based.

Jonathan

IIRC they had it in Wickes, (and perhaps BnQ). Not cheap though, a tenner for 500ml, which is more expensive than their teak oil, though that is a less defined product.

You can get it cheaper online, especially the raw (i.e. not "boiled") stuff, which is a (horse) tonic

I bought some in Australia (in Bunnings) risked taking it back to Taiwan in my luggage, and then never got around to using it. Ended up with a lot of other good sealed stuff in a mass glugging into the waste oil tank at the local scooter shop.

 

[RunAgroundHard]

You can buy 25 litres of 12% sodium hypochlorite at Barton's, Broxburn, £33 (ex VAT), which is by volume, a lower cost that the 5l product available on Amazon. However, it is branded, Red Label by Kilco, and is part of Ion Detailing offerings, so probably not suitable for you as you are looking for unbranded products.

Bartons Detailing & Janitorial Supplies, North Greendykes, Broxburn EH52 6PW

Red Label Sodium Hypochlorite x25lt

There are three others in Edinburgh area that sell sodium hypochlorite according to Google, one of them is a pool cleaning business, fancy that.

 

[ylop]

Are you

(a) Asking questions that deserve an answer?

OR

(b) Just trying to take the piss?

I'm thinking (b)

Both.

Do you want us to take you seriously?

 

[Neeves]

Both.

Do you want us to take you seriously?

I for one like people who are willing to think outside the box and invest their time and money.

Aluminium anchors, Saildrives, carbon sals, finned keels, foiling yachts, Copper Coat are ideas that would never be accepted by the market place.

Its not your time, nor your money, you don't need to read ducked's posts (but seem to enjoy needling him). Sad really, are you bored!

Jonathan

 

[ducked]

Both.

Do you want us to take you seriously?

Frankly, I can hardly contain my indifference

(And I'm still thinking its mostly (b))

 

[ducked]

You can buy 25 litres of 12% sodium hypochlorite at Barton's, Broxburn, £33 (ex VAT), which is by volume, a lower cost that the 5l product available on Amazon. However, it is branded, Red Label by Kilco, and is part of Ion Detailing offerings, so probably not suitable for you as you are looking for unbranded products.

Bartons Detailing & Janitorial Supplies, North Greendykes, Broxburn EH52 6PW

Red Label Sodium Hypochlorite x25lt

There are three others in Edinburgh area that sell sodium hypochlorite according to Google, one of them is a pool cleaning business, fancy that.

Yeh, that'd do it. Diluted to 3% use strength that'd be 100 litres, Escalated quickly, since I only came in for a bottle of bleach.

Perhaps tablets/powder would be more convenient if going for scale or high strength, maybe something like this, if one could confirm what was in it.

https://www.diy.com/departments/cle...MIse3q49eokgMVeJpQBh0cTgx0EAQYBCABEgLw__D_BwE