Gas bottle storage and CORGIE gas fitter

Peter

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Got to modify my current gas bottle storage, the current storage is not gas tight and will allow gas into the bilges if I have a leak. So got to make it as gas tight as possible. Due to the storage design and where I can store the bottles this means I have to fabricate the new storage with a removable side panel to get the bottles out. And at the moment this side panel, full bottle height, will be screwed to the frame. When fitted I will have no easy access to the gas bottle isolation valve.
Is it acceptable to have a separate isolation valve fitted outside the storage compartment to isolate the gas bottle when not in use?
Other question. To reroute my gas lines I am having great difficulty in getting a CORGIE gas fitter to do the work. As the new installation is within my capabilities to fit where I stand with getting the gas installation accepted/approved, or just do.

Thanks

Peter
 
It is your insurance company that may stipulate if the installation needs checking by a registered expert. As far as the installation is concerned I believe you can do this yourself. You could in 2002 on coded vessels.

Personally I would want the gas shut off in the locker, or possibly a bulkhead fitting with tap next to the gas locker. Could you not have a remote gas shut off in the locker with any wiring exiting from the top or into open space?
Like this one.
http://www.smartmarine.co.nz/12v-lpg-regulator-solenoid-remote-shut-off-kit-p-1086.html
 
Gas lockers should really be top-entry only; achieving a 'gas tight' side entry locker will be difficult. Also, of course, the locker should be fitted in the base with a 'drain' leading overboard to clear gas from changing bottles etc.

Yes, you can run your own piping and connections. I'd include a bubble leak detector. You can find a CORGI registered person to inspect and certify the installation.

I'd recommend the gas setup specified in the EA's Boat Safety Scheme - if it's OK for the guys on the Thames, it's good for sea boats too.

Re-running the gas installation is one of my winter jobs too - but I need to build a GRP locker from scratch first.
 
Not sure if you have to make locker gas tight, however it should 'drain' out of the boat. Had a similar problem on our previous boat (a Sadler 32) a skin fitting was added from the lockers lowest point so any gas leak would drain over board and not into cock pit. LPG is 2.5 times heavier than air, and stored under pressure, not sure you could match cylinder pressure in the locker. I also posted a corgi thread just a little while ago there were some good links try a search. Hope this helps
 
Have you considered a box that will rotate 90 degrees to allow bottle change out?
you can pivot the box on the external drain with the proper rotating fitting, if you also install a solenoid shut off valve you don't have to turn the bottle valve on / off each time.

Foam sandwich boxes are simple projects and very strong, no rot or warping to worry about and very gas tight.

Hope this helps.

Avagoodweekend.

PS we have a solenoid on our twin bottle system that has never given us a problem in several years. now looking for a system that will change over bottles at the flick of a switch.
 
I have found that getting a registered fitter to the boat is a bit like ordering a new car in the former East German republic - more a question of which year would you like, sir?

Mechanically, the work is well within the scope of DIY. Perforce I have had to resort to DIY myself! Be sure to do a pressure check after the work with detergent solution on all joints and fixtures; through fear of stripping the small threads, it is easy to undertighten.

Isolation: you are best off with a layout that enables you to shut down at the tank top. On my boat I have this plus another in line tap just before the cooker, so I can shut down at the end of every day. And completely when leaving the boat.

The gas tank container has to drain overboard with 100% certainty - not only for your safety, but to comply, and keep the insurance on side!

PWG
 
Ok well within the capabilities of a mech. engineer but unless you have already done so download and read part 7 of the Boat safety scheme on LPG installations

BSS Part 7

You should and indeed may be required by your insurance co to get your work tested by a Corgi reg. fitter.

Two tests should be carried out, one on the system excuding the regulator at a higher pressure than the operating pressure with air, the other on the whole system with gas at a lower pressure than the operating pressure. All details are in the Corgi manual. (and on my computer!)

The Calor marine shop website will be useful to know about.

Fittings etc can be obtained at decent prices from BES

The Corgi website has a facility to find an installer qualified to work on LPG in your area, if there is one.
 
[ QUOTE ]
You should and indeed may be required by your insurance co to get your work tested by a Corgi reg. fitter.

[/ QUOTE ]

When I had my rubber gas hoses replaced, (a job I could have done myself!!), Pantaenius were happy with a copy of a bill from a reputable boatyard, (Sopromar, lagos, Portugal), as confirmation that the work had been done to their satisfaction.

May be worth checking whether a boatyard can do the job/get it done, and how the insurance company would view that.
 
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