Fuse panel for Katie L

Not the exact answer, but...

even though not cheap (it was £10.99 when I bought one), but I bought one of these for my Dad for Christmas. Seemed good quality.

I liked the 2 USB slots of different Amperage (and the display indicates amps draw)

I liked the switch, so 3 plugs can be left in and push switches turn them on and off and a pretty blue light shines to show it is on too.

Display also gives voltage.

Comes with sticky back adhesive pad that actually stuff to dashboard (although we did clean it with brake cleaner first).

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00RFCV3XY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00
 
Well, on my little Hunter ( a little bit bigger than Katie L, I admit) I have altogether, and that doesn't include the bilge pump which is auto:
GPS, pulpit bi, stern light, masthead ARW, masthead tri, radio, instruments, AIS, 'fridge, 12 v sockets, cabin lights, Yeoman plotter, domestic water pump
you might not need all those, and for some of them there's a switch built into the set (there is in my domestic radio for instance), but you will still need to fuse (or circuit-break) them. And it's useful to have a few spare switches/fuses just in case you need a few extra toys ... you can use in-line fuses but it's best to have labelled panel-mounted fuses or circuit breakers.

Incidentally. The first offering showed a battery condition meter which was, I think, moving coil. Waste of time, as it's not accurate enough. To measure battery volts, use a decent digital meter on the battery terminals. A rough idea can be given by the volts function on some GPSs or plotters, but (even apart from accuracy issues) the volts reading will be affected by current drawn and consequent volts drop in both battery and cabling.
 
Katie L is dead simple

nav lights are those led battery jobs - so no wires

a circuit for the two cabin lights

one for the echo sounder

charging camera batteries is my main concern

I can run the battery down as much as I like as the outboard is pull start

so the three gang is probably enough

D
 
dylanwinter said:
Katie L is dead simple



so the three gang is probably enough

D
Click to expand...

For someone who makes so much stuff why are you paying through the nose for for something that you could easily make yourself with the actual number of fuses, switches and sockets that you require.

FWIW I think I'd have a panel with the switches and fuses for the boat's stuff where most convenient for it and a separate panel with the sockets for charging stuff located where the stuff on charge can most suitably be accommodated.


Always worth having a spare switch of fuse, or the space to fit one later for some new bit of kit/gadget as electrical systems tend to grow.

I started with a panel with a fuse and a couple of switches but it grew into what you see in this rather poor photo

DSCF0846.jpg
 
VicS said:
For someone who makes so much stuff why are you paying through the nose for for something that you could easily make yourself with the actual number of fuses, switches and sockets that you require.

FWIW I think I'd have a panel with the switches and fuses for the boat's stuff where most convenient for it and a separate panel with the sockets for charging stuff located where the stuff on charge can most suitably be accommodated.


Always worth having a spare switch of fuse, or the space to fit one later for some new bit of kit/gadget as electrical systems tend to grow.

I started with a panel with a fuse and a couple of switches but it grew into what you see in this rather poor photo

DSCF0846.jpg
Click to expand...

that looks great

however, along with my cost avoidance strategy I also have the fix less and sail more philosophy

so an off the shelf panel it is

bought this

http://www.force4.co.uk/department/...-panel-with-2-x-12v-sockets.html#.VRUbCOEQOXh
 
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A bit pricey but Blue Sea stuff is v well made and will do the job for you. You can get flush fitting dual USB adapters that will convert cigar sockets which could be useful now that a lot of gadgets are USB.
 
Looking at this job on Triola - all the breakers on those Blue Sea panels are 15A... is that a problem? Surely you want most stuff to blow before 15A! Hence I am once again favouring a fuse panel where I can choose the fuse and just keep a bloody good stock on board.
 
MagicalArmchair said:
Looking at this job on Triola - all the breakers on those Blue Sea panels are 15A... is that a problem? Surely you want most stuff to blow before 15A! Hence I am once again favouring a fuse panel where I can choose the fuse and just keep a bloody good stock on board.
Click to expand...

Breakers are meant to protect the wiring, not your equipment.
 
2nd_apprentice said:
That's incorrect. You can design your wiring to withstand 15A but that's not going to do you much good if the equipment itself catches fire.
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you make a good point

what sort of gear is likely to catch fire?

could a vhf radio catch fire I wonder?

if 15 amps enough to stop a wire from getting hot enough to catch fire?

I am assuming that the internal lights are likely to blow before they catch fire

got me thinking now

D

PS force 4 can't deliver so ordered this instead

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemVersion&item=161570275783&view=all&tid=1237510969006
 
dylanwinter said:
could a vhf radio catch fire I wonder?
Click to expand...

Potentially, if something short-circuited inside it. Probably quite unlikely with a modern radio that's all PCBs inside a plastic case, more plausible with an older metal-cased radio with wires inside. The wiring to it is usually meaty enough to pour plenty of energy into the short.

dylanwinter said:
if 15 amps enough to stop a wire from getting hot enough to catch fire?
Click to expand...

From memory, 1.5mm2 wiring is rated at 15 amps, so this size wiring would be safe with such a fuse. But tiny wiring might not be.

Pete
 
Once, when I was young and foolish, I installed spot lights on my car to an unfused switch. I'd connected the live to the switched ignition terminal, and the blade of the control switch touched against the chassis. I had wrapped the excess wire round and round the steering column (see previous statement).

The wire instantly started glowing cherry red, the insulation vapourised and I managed to avert disaster by striking the starting-to-melt wire with a key or something, it broke. Phew
 
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