Fuse panel for Katie L

[dylanwinter]

I am after a fuse panel for Katie L

ideally with two 12 volt sockets

found this but want more sockets

any suggestions about where to look

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-GANG-FU...321?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c7bb54d01

D

 

[NealB]

More expensive, from same dealer:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLUE-SEA-...914?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5d40f4800a

 

[dylanwinter]

More expensive, from same dealer:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLUE-SEA-...914?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5d40f4800a

perfecto

and cheaper here

http://www.force4.co.uk/department/...-panel-with-2-x-12v-sockets.html#.VRRzweFMWYw

any more lads before I hit that paypal button

D

 

[Sailingsaves]

Not the exact answer, but...

even though not cheap (it was £10.99 when I bought one), but I bought one of these for my Dad for Christmas. Seemed good quality.

I liked the 2 USB slots of different Amperage (and the display indicates amps draw)

I liked the switch, so 3 plugs can be left in and push switches turn them on and off and a pretty blue light shines to show it is on too.

Display also gives voltage.

Comes with sticky back adhesive pad that actually stuff to dashboard (although we did clean it with brake cleaner first).

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00RFCV3XY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

 

[BERT T]

I would suggest you fit one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Motor...052?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item19fb6eccfc

or one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cigarette...005&rk=1&rkt=6&mehot=pp&sd=301559945069&rt=nc which gives you a 12 v socket and 2 USB sockets.

 

[dylanwinter]

I would suggest you fit one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Motor...052?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item19fb6eccfc

or one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cigarette...005&rk=1&rkt=6&mehot=pp&sd=301559945069&rt=nc which gives you a 12 v socket and 2 USB sockets.

that would work

but if I can have it all on one panel then the wiring is simpler

so far the force 4 is favourite

 

[blackbeard]

Well, on my little Hunter ( a little bit bigger than Katie L, I admit) I have altogether, and that doesn't include the bilge pump which is auto:
GPS, pulpit bi, stern light, masthead ARW, masthead tri, radio, instruments, AIS, 'fridge, 12 v sockets, cabin lights, Yeoman plotter, domestic water pump
you might not need all those, and for some of them there's a switch built into the set (there is in my domestic radio for instance), but you will still need to fuse (or circuit-break) them. And it's useful to have a few spare switches/fuses just in case you need a few extra toys ... you can use in-line fuses but it's best to have labelled panel-mounted fuses or circuit breakers.

Incidentally. The first offering showed a battery condition meter which was, I think, moving coil. Waste of time, as it's not accurate enough. To measure battery volts, use a decent digital meter on the battery terminals. A rough idea can be given by the volts function on some GPSs or plotters, but (even apart from accuracy issues) the volts reading will be affected by current drawn and consequent volts drop in both battery and cabling.

 

[SteveSarabande]

Are 4 circuit breakers enough? What about anchor light, steaming light, vhf.

 

[dylanwinter]

Katie L is dead simple

nav lights are those led battery jobs - so no wires

a circuit for the two cabin lights

one for the echo sounder

charging camera batteries is my main concern

I can run the battery down as much as I like as the outboard is pull start

so the three gang is probably enough

D

 

[VicS]

Katie L is dead simple



so the three gang is probably enough

D

For someone who makes so much stuff why are you paying through the nose for for something that you could easily make yourself with the actual number of fuses, switches and sockets that you require.

FWIW I think I'd have a panel with the switches and fuses for the boat's stuff where most convenient for it and a separate panel with the sockets for charging stuff located where the stuff on charge can most suitably be accommodated.


Always worth having a spare switch of fuse, or the space to fit one later for some new bit of kit/gadget as electrical systems tend to grow.

I started with a panel with a fuse and a couple of switches but it grew into what you see in this rather poor photo

 

[2nd_apprentice]

I'm cheap so I just use the old toggle switch type, easy enough to wire in some extra 12V sockets:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Marine-3-...544?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item232b02f180

Never had a problem and correctly sized fuses cost next to nothing at Maplin's
They also sell them with a 12V socket and a "battery test switch" to make it look more professional.

Or you could buy one of these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Circuit-B...185?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item566d03eca1

 

[dylanwinter]

For someone who makes so much stuff why are you paying through the nose for for something that you could easily make yourself with the actual number of fuses, switches and sockets that you require.

FWIW I think I'd have a panel with the switches and fuses for the boat's stuff where most convenient for it and a separate panel with the sockets for charging stuff located where the stuff on charge can most suitably be accommodated.


Always worth having a spare switch of fuse, or the space to fit one later for some new bit of kit/gadget as electrical systems tend to grow.

I started with a panel with a fuse and a couple of switches but it grew into what you see in this rather poor photo

that looks great

however, along with my cost avoidance strategy I also have the fix less and sail more philosophy

so an off the shelf panel it is

bought this

http://www.force4.co.uk/department/...-panel-with-2-x-12v-sockets.html#.VRUbCOEQOXh

 

[ghostlymoron]

A bit pricey but Blue Sea stuff is v well made and will do the job for you. You can get flush fitting dual USB adapters that will convert cigar sockets which could be useful now that a lot of gadgets are USB.

 

[MagicalArmchair]

Looking at this job on Triola - all the breakers on those Blue Sea panels are 15A... is that a problem? Surely you want most stuff to blow before 15A! Hence I am once again favouring a fuse panel where I can choose the fuse and just keep a bloody good stock on board.

 

[CreakyDecks]

Looking at this job on Triola - all the breakers on those Blue Sea panels are 15A... is that a problem? Surely you want most stuff to blow before 15A! Hence I am once again favouring a fuse panel where I can choose the fuse and just keep a bloody good stock on board.

Breakers are meant to protect the wiring, not your equipment.

 

[2nd_apprentice]

Breakers are meant to protect the wiring, not your equipment.

That's incorrect. You can design your wiring to withstand 15A but that's not going to do you much good if the equipment itself catches fire.

 

[dylanwinter]

That's incorrect. You can design your wiring to withstand 15A but that's not going to do you much good if the equipment itself catches fire.

you make a good point

what sort of gear is likely to catch fire?

could a vhf radio catch fire I wonder?

if 15 amps enough to stop a wire from getting hot enough to catch fire?

I am assuming that the internal lights are likely to blow before they catch fire

got me thinking now

D

PS force 4 can't deliver so ordered this instead

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemVersion&item=161570275783&view=all&tid=1237510969006

 

[prv]

could a vhf radio catch fire I wonder?

Potentially, if something short-circuited inside it. Probably quite unlikely with a modern radio that's all PCBs inside a plastic case, more plausible with an older metal-cased radio with wires inside. The wiring to it is usually meaty enough to pour plenty of energy into the short.

if 15 amps enough to stop a wire from getting hot enough to catch fire?

From memory, 1.5mm² wiring is rated at 15 amps, so this size wiring would be safe with such a fuse. But tiny wiring might not be.

Pete

 

[AndyJ76]

Once, when I was young and foolish, I installed spot lights on my car to an unfused switch. I'd connected the live to the switched ignition terminal, and the blade of the control switch touched against the chassis. I had wrapped the excess wire round and round the steering column (see previous statement).

The wire instantly started glowing cherry red, the insulation vapourised and I managed to avert disaster by striking the starting-to-melt wire with a key or something, it broke. Phew